Epoxy primer scratch before high build

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melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
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a kid i work with picked up a set of big kid blocks,Neither of us are yet to use them but it's only a matter of time.
 
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08Malibu

Royal Smart Person
Feb 9, 2014
1,455
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don't di$count the dura blocks,they're a lot better than what i had when i started.they work.
It’s crazy how much better the acrylic cuts. I have a small wet sanding set from lucky Matt. I thought they were going to be better, but they’re just different size pieces of acrylic. They were like $50, I think. The quality was fine, they just took forever to come. I noticed when I started using them they cut better than the durablocks. For color sanding they were great. I really want to try some larger ones on jobs from start to finish, since I was always going over someone else’s bodywork.
 
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Doug Chahoy

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 21, 2016
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One thing I read from a primer manufacturer is if you sand old epoxy. You should coat it with epoxy again before 2K. Ever since that’s how I’ve done my priming. Hope yours holds up
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
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One thing I read from a primer manufacturer is if you sand old epoxy. You should coat it with epoxy again before 2K. Ever since that’s how I’ve done my priming. Hope yours holds up
Primer i used states after the 3 day window you must scratch epoxy for mechanical adhesion. Nothing about adding more epoxy. Hmmm
 

melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
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they might be implying that if you break through the epoxy to metal/aluminum substrate you must epoxy those spots/flash off before topcoating as the next product might not be dtm is all.
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
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Jul 1, 2018
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they might be implying that if you break through the epoxy to metal/aluminum substrate you must epoxy those spots/flash off before topcoating as the next product might not be dtm is all.
I did break through a few spot so feathered it out with 80 and using epoxy now.
 

James84SS

Apprentice
Dec 2, 2018
73
177
33
Detroit area
I have been using Plexiglass for my sanding blocks for the last 25 years. Home depot or any hardware store should have it in many different thicknesses. 1/8 " to 1/2" thick and cut it to any size you want. Most stick-it airfile roll sandpaper is 2 3/4" wide, so make the block 2 3/4 wide by however long you need. I have blocks from 4 inch's long to 16 inch's. Make a few just less than 2 3/4 then fold the paper over it for smaller blocks. Most sheet wet sand papers are 9 x 11 so I have blocks of different thicknesses cut 9 inch long by 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inchs wide. Then roll that sheet up on the block square and tight and start blocking. when the paper start wearing out just cut or tear off that length and you have fresh paper underneath. You can get a good size piece of plexi for 20 bucks and cut 20 blocks out of it. Dont need to spend big dollars on designer acrylic blocks just cut your own.
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
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NW Indiana
I have been using Plexiglass for my sanding blocks for the last 25 years. Home depot or any hardware store should have it in many different thicknesses. 1/8 " to 1/2" thick and cut it to any size you want. Most stick-it airfile roll sandpaper is 2 3/4" wide, so make the block 2 3/4 wide by however long you need. I have blocks from 4 inch's long to 16 inch's. Make a few just less than 2 3/4 then fold the paper over it for smaller blocks. Most sheet wet sand papers are 9 x 11 so I have blocks of different thicknesses cut 9 inch long by 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inchs wide. Then roll that sheet up on the block square and tight and start blocking. when the paper start wearing out just cut or tear off that length and you have fresh paper underneath. You can get a good size piece of plexi for 20 bucks and cut 20 blocks out of it. Dont need to spend big dollars on designer acrylic blocks just cut your own.
I thought about doing this. However with darn covid Plexiglass is unobtainable mostly and the prices have gone through the roof if you can find it.
 
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