just use your welder, make small tack welds, do not hold the welder in one spot,as you will burn a bigger hole and the heat can warp the panel... just take your time 5/16" hole is easy to weld up, maybe ill make a little video and show you, if i have time...
Filling trim holes... JB Weld?
- Thread starter motorholmes
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I read everyone's responses. Thanks for the input.
I've got my test chunk of sheet metal ready for beating on with a hammer, etc. I have several nails JB welded in place and several holes that I countersunk and filled with JB weld and that metal filler. I'm not too happy with the nails that weren't countersunk. I can tell you that the JB was a bit easier to use than the metal filler just because the metal filler leaks down thru the hole really easy. Maybe I was pushing too hard with the putty knife. The JB just pokes out underneath a little. I used my grinder on all test holes and no problems yet.
I'll beat on them and poke em with a punch, etc and see what happens. I'm assuming these products can be primed and painted.
BY THE WAY, THE STUD WELDER DOESN'T WORK! For some reason, it welds just fine to sheet metal, but if there's a hole, even if it's smaller than the stud, it won't weld to it! I have no idea...
I've got my test chunk of sheet metal ready for beating on with a hammer, etc. I have several nails JB welded in place and several holes that I countersunk and filled with JB weld and that metal filler. I'm not too happy with the nails that weren't countersunk. I can tell you that the JB was a bit easier to use than the metal filler just because the metal filler leaks down thru the hole really easy. Maybe I was pushing too hard with the putty knife. The JB just pokes out underneath a little. I used my grinder on all test holes and no problems yet.
I'll beat on them and poke em with a punch, etc and see what happens. I'm assuming these products can be primed and painted.
BY THE WAY, THE STUD WELDER DOESN'T WORK! For some reason, it welds just fine to sheet metal, but if there's a hole, even if it's smaller than the stud, it won't weld to it! I have no idea...
Well, so far JB weld is our front-runner. I did dig out some other stuff I forgot I had. Figured it's worth adding to the fray. It's called Polyflex, and it's made for flexible body parts like bumper covers and plastics. It just might win due to being pliable and flexible! I'll find out tomorrow.
In the photo, #1 shows the "metal filler" that was spread into the open holes, two of which were countersunk.
It took a bit of torture, but I was able to get 3 of them to pop out. FAIL
#2 is the JB Weld. No matter how much I twisted the metal, beat on it, and poked it with a metal punch, it held strong.
#3 is the Polyflex that hasn't cured yet
#4 is the 16 penny nails that I JB welded into place, then ground down. The one with the countersunk hole held really well, but still broke loose in one little spot along the edge. They were quite strong, though and I do think this method would be just fine
So far I've learned that all of these products respond well to countersinking the holes. (I just use a large drill bit)
I do realize that my torture testing is unrealistic. Nobody is going to twist my car or hit it with a hammer. But I do want the best product underneath my *eventual* $x,***.00 paint job! Plus, it's kinda fun
In the photo, #1 shows the "metal filler" that was spread into the open holes, two of which were countersunk.
It took a bit of torture, but I was able to get 3 of them to pop out. FAIL
#2 is the JB Weld. No matter how much I twisted the metal, beat on it, and poked it with a metal punch, it held strong.
#3 is the Polyflex that hasn't cured yet
#4 is the 16 penny nails that I JB welded into place, then ground down. The one with the countersunk hole held really well, but still broke loose in one little spot along the edge. They were quite strong, though and I do think this method would be just fine
So far I've learned that all of these products respond well to countersinking the holes. (I just use a large drill bit)
I do realize that my torture testing is unrealistic. Nobody is going to twist my car or hit it with a hammer. But I do want the best product underneath my *eventual* $x,***.00 paint job! Plus, it's kinda fun
motorholmes said:
Then you need to weld the holes shut. Plain and simple. Everything else is a band-aid.
Black Sheep said:
x2 on this, plus you're testing does not really simulate the real world interactions over time. There's flexing and twisting going on and you are using dissimilar materials. Just weld it up, it's easy enough; practice a little more and you'll see how easy it is to do.
X3....I mig floors and body panels with .023 wire and 100% co2, no argon mix, it's too-hot for thin stuff with my set-up. Practice until you can get a small visible weld puddle on some thin scrap. (Without burning thru...not easy for me either) It may take a while to learn depending on your set-up, If you cannot get a good weld puddle, maybe work with multiple tacks, but tacks seem a bit more brittle and still need to be ground down risking additional heat/warping. Thin sheetmetal is tough to weld. Maybe there is some type of filler worth considering, and you might have a solution with the JB weld, but I cannot imagine most fillers will stand up too well over time. Good Luck. Let us know.
67rstbkt said:
I wish I could weld them! I'd be done already!
Once again- I don't have access to the back side of these holes, so I can't use copper spoons or anything.
In the photo you can see the light coming thru the welded holes I did (top two, in the photo). The more I weld on it, the less I'm able to get the wire stuck down into the hole where it needs to be. I really do wish I could use a copper spoon!
If the Polyflex works well, I'l probably use that, just because it is made for bodywork and being painted.
p.s. I don't have access to the back side of the holes
Once again- I don't have access to the back side of these holes, so I can't use copper spoons or anything.
In the photo you can see the light coming thru the welded holes I did (top two, in the photo). The more I weld on it, the less I'm able to get the wire stuck down into the hole where it needs to be. I really do wish I could use a copper spoon!
If the Polyflex works well, I'l probably use that, just because it is made for bodywork and being painted.
p.s. I don't have access to the back side of the holes
motorholmes said:I wish I could weld them! I'd be done already!
Once again- I don't have access to the back side of these holes, so I can't use copper spoons or anything.
In the photo you can see the light coming thru the welded holes I did (top two, in the photo). The more I weld on it, the less I'm able to get the wire stuck down into the hole where it needs to be. I really do wish I could use a copper spoon!
If the Polyflex works well, I'l probably use that, just because it is made for bodywork and being painted.
p.s. I don't have access to the back side of the holes
You don't need access to the backside. I'm not an expert welder at all, just learning as I go. If I can do it, anyone can do it.
Stick the welding wire thru the hole, touching one side. Pull the trigger and move in a circle. Grind the weld down. If you still have a hole, hit it again with the welder.
Filling small trim holes is the first thing you learn when starting to weld.
Filling small trim holes is the first thing you learn when starting to weld.
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