FINAL CHOICE… variable or constant

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Thanks. Anything will be better than the originals I have….. that’s right. Rear springs and shocks are original. My 4 year old can make the back end sag.

Front plan is 5660 and cut them as required later. Seems like the best way.

Lowering the suspension will reduce its up travel and cutting coils off a spring will increase its spring rate. Keep in mind stiffer springs cause the chassix to flex more. This is why G bodies need good body mounts along with chassis and body bracing.

Poly bushings squeak because they bind up the suspension which can lead to snap oversteer, especially combined with boxed control arms. The rear suspension in these cars are designed to require control arm flex and bushing deflection for proper smooth articulation.

 

[MerfGP]

Got it. B6 is street AK is track.

Clone, you saying no boxed arms and bushings? Need to put the rubber to the road and I thought this was the best way.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Got it. B6 is street AK is track.

Clone, you saying no boxed arms and bushings? Need to put the rubber to the road and I thought this was the best way.

You have to remember that these cars were originally designed to be granny cars, not sports cars. There is only so much that can be done with bolt ons. Real high performance requires complete rengineering of the suspension in these cars which is why the GNX uses a completely different rear suspension from standard G bodies.

As for as simple things that can be done, a better choice for control arms would be aftermarket boxed arms that use roto joints which are a steel ball within a poly race. Even just new rubber bushings will perform better than 40 year old factory original rubber bushings. The stock rubber bushings operate like a crude ball joint in allowing multiple axis of rotation. Poly roto joints are a poly version of steel ball joints which allow several planes of rotation without deflection. Simple poly bushings behave like metal bushings in only allowing a single axis of rotation which isn't good for 4 link rear suspensions. Many aftermarket performance parts fod these cars are designed for track useage and not really intended for street operation.

So for the rear, just lower boxed rear arms with roto poly joints and stock upper arms with rubber bushings. You can also build a rear frame brace called a Jeff bar to help reduce rear frame flex. http://jeffd.50megs.com/frame_brace_page.htm

There are also aftermarket rear shock mount and LCA mount braces available.

 

[SS_Malibu]

Hard to get springs right now so I might just do shocks. I am leaning towards the AK series for sure. Do you have a side shot of the stance of your Malibu?

This is a recent picture. My car is currently at a friend’s house as I’m redoing the steering box and high pressure hose. Waiting for parts.

 

[MerfGP]

Car looks good!

I ordered B6’s today. Gonna wait on the springs for now. Boxed stem and I’m gonna also order the rear shock tower brace. I might add a bar across the front as well

 

[64nailhead]

I’ll give you a push to the Bilstein B6’s as well. They will feel night and day compared to a part store replacement.

They aren’t the cheapest available, but they are worth every penny. If you want more than a Bilstein B6, then you need to go to a double adjustable.

 

[MerfGP]

Great feedback. Really appreciate all the advice. Picking up b6’s later this week. Updates to follow

 

[Supercharged111]

I read that the AK is softer to allow ease of weight transfer? If so, lame. Circle track thing?

 

[MerfGP]

QUIT IT!!!!!! It was hard enough making this decision. LOL. I appreciate the input. Also the B6 are cheaper so that helps.

 

[scoti]

If you're investing the $$ for suspension improvement, avoid any rear arms that are just solid/tubular construction w/poly bushings. The best set-up out there for the C4L GM rears is the Detroit Speed Swivel Links IMHO:

*Tubular construction (no deflection)
*Higher durometer rubber bushed ends (stiffer than stock bushings to minimize movement/deflection but still allows for less harshness/NVH transmission)
*Full 360° articulation of the ends (vs 33° on spherical bearing type bushings)
*Adjustable for length