Final Rust Removal Methods
- Thread starter H/O84
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That will help the dustless blasting I mentioned can be done on an assembled car if it's done carefully and taped off with duct tape however you will still have to sand the edges because in that process the car should be over taped to allow for user error
I'm having a hard time understanding the logic in this undertaking.
If you have selected a painter, and he is willing to warranty the job, follow his (written) instructions.
You are, if I recall correctly, excited that it's a low mile H/O, and I am assuming that the value of same is an important factor. For this reason, I would accept nothing less than best-practices. Have you talked to any blasters? Not industrial equipment blasters, rather resto shop type blasters. In all honesty, I cannot imagine any reputable restoration shop would advise taking the route you are considering. Quality costs, poor quality costs more in the long run.
Just from the picture you posted of the shiny spot with the dark etching within that area, you should realize that there are deeper-reaching issues than just sanding and snake oil are going to cure.
Clutch has told you his experience behind his recommendation, mine is 42 years in the hobby, and the last 24 as a bodyman....this is how I put food on the table for my family, and I have no desire to work for free on comebacks. Aside from the lost time, money, and materials redoing poor workmanship, there is always the added negative of developing a poor reputation as a repairer. It is for these reasons I have given you the opinions that I have.
Do yourself and the car a favor, talk to somebody locally that has experience with old car restoration, that is not in the pool of potential repairers/painters.
If you have selected a painter, and he is willing to warranty the job, follow his (written) instructions.
You are, if I recall correctly, excited that it's a low mile H/O, and I am assuming that the value of same is an important factor. For this reason, I would accept nothing less than best-practices. Have you talked to any blasters? Not industrial equipment blasters, rather resto shop type blasters. In all honesty, I cannot imagine any reputable restoration shop would advise taking the route you are considering. Quality costs, poor quality costs more in the long run.
Just from the picture you posted of the shiny spot with the dark etching within that area, you should realize that there are deeper-reaching issues than just sanding and snake oil are going to cure.
Clutch has told you his experience behind his recommendation, mine is 42 years in the hobby, and the last 24 as a bodyman....this is how I put food on the table for my family, and I have no desire to work for free on comebacks. Aside from the lost time, money, and materials redoing poor workmanship, there is always the added negative of developing a poor reputation as a repairer. It is for these reasons I have given you the opinions that I have.
Do yourself and the car a favor, talk to somebody locally that has experience with old car restoration, that is not in the pool of potential repairers/painters.
Not ruling that out but I haven't found anyone that does it and I've heard it's really expensive
And I don't like soda blasting it to can void a warranty because etching primer is acid etch and backing soda neutralizes acid not to mention sodium bicarbonate is salt based
IMO I'd take everything apart to include glass to ensure all the rust issues are delt with (its going to have to be done to prime/paint anyways.) Not sure what rust is hiding in the blind spots. As the others have pointed out quality work requires more detailed rust clean up. I have seen budget shops I used to service when I was working at a auto body supply shop cut corners just to get a job done & then I'm showing up to find out why the job has to be redone. Then having to get the PPG rep to OK the warranty the job. As your car has what looks like surface rust, the progressive sanding from rough to fine may do. Then some chemical rust remover may assist. Don't use what is at the auto parts store, hit up the paint supply shops for what they carry. Preping for paint is time comsuming, but it is worth it for a long lasting paint job.
I used some rust dissolver from Eastwood on my door bottoms. It fumed off heavily and actually caused light surface rust on the bare metal inside the door. My brother has used Muriatic acid to clean rust pits, but I'm not sure what follows it to neutralize the acid.
I too work in a body shop, we had a 70 GTO body professionally blasted primarily to remove paint, and I thought it was very coarse.
I too work in a body shop, we had a 70 GTO body professionally blasted primarily to remove paint, and I thought it was very coarse.
A prime example of what ribbedroof is saying can be found on onehit's Hurst Olds someone spent a ton of money doing that car wrong I've seen it in person and it's a beautiful car with a straight shinny black body however not done correctly cracking and pealing his car is sweet but whoever did it should be slapped for cutting corners ask him to send you pictures of what I'm talking about.
Ribbedroof snake oil that's funny I tell adjusters I forgot my magic wand at work
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