Final Rust Removal Methods

[Clutch]

Thanks clutch I've been getting real sick of people telling me to do it a certain way and giving a really bad explanation of why or not really having an answer of why. I tend not to get along with body guys very well especially when they quote me 15k to paint it. I just have a bad history with body guys for some reason. I plan to spray the car myself but due to my crappy air compressor i think I can only do one panel at a time. Guessing that will take me about a week to get done. Do you think that will be an issue once it's blasted to wait that long? And what about needing to sand near the edges that got taped off, isn't there the possibility of the rust causing problems similar to if I just sanded the whole car

Yes that's 100% correct if you choose to do it the way I've explained you could tape the car in the jam thus blasting the edge also you could remove parts as needed for blasting like back window moldings and windshield moldings then just tape the glass if the window jams are rotted under the glass blasting won't help that anyway you will be cutting it out and welding in new mettle if that's the case. door locks and handles are easy to pull and put back in really I think your only issue would be the quarter glass did the last guy sand right up to it? Or is there still paint left around it? If it's rusted bare metal right to the moldings then they need to come out regardless if not tape around them for blasting then up to them for primer and remove them before paint
Again you can do what you want to do I'm just telling you what should be done for best results and I understand your trying to drive and enjoy it in primer a little before it's painted I get it lol and I'm a body man!
Keep this in mind I'm a body man and I can't afford to paint my own car because doing it right is expensive and I don't want to do it twice there's an old saying the long way is the short way and if you ever made a mistake that cost you well that's what it means
As you go witch ever route you take even if I think it's wrong il try to help you out but I'm a special kind of a hole and don't always give the answer you want to here or a good explanation I guess that's from all the production work I don't give a reason I just do it thank my daughter for the explanations I'm getting used to teaching with her trying to help more like I tell her there's always an answer you just have to find it
Oh and find a body supply place near you and talk to them they want to sell so they will help you

 

[H/O84]

would I be able to just scruff the roof and prime over it since they never got it down to bare metal

 

[Clutch]

View attachment 69458 would I be able to just scruff the roof and prime over it since they never got it down to bare metal

Yes if it's in good shape my eyes are shot and I'm on my phone so I can't tell right now

 

[Ribbedroof]

Not a fan of painting over decades old lacquer on this end. Final finish is only as good as the foundation, and there are much better primers and sealers available now. Here in the south / southwest, paint takes a real beating due to sun/UV/heat exposure. Might not be as bad up there.

Lacquer is an air-dry product, and in the long term does not hold up well (never really stops drying/shrinking). I would imagine a close examination will reveal checking (small cracks).

This goes back to only doing it once, given the cost of materials in the present day.

You have to remember that in that time, the only concern was low cost, and making it look good for 8-10 years tops. Durability when exposed to the environment daily was/is not very good compared to a 2-stage (catalyzed) process. Even today, many topcoat lamination failures are the result of minimal coverage to reduce cost. Most clearcoat OE finishes only have 1.5-2.0 mils of film build...that's 1.5-2.0 thousandths of an inch....just enough to make it shiny. A typical refinish where a slick finish is desired will get 4-8 or more mils, with some removed in the cut/buff process.

To clarify, the film build above is just the clearcoat, and does not include primers/sealers/stoneguard.

Also, the general recommendation is to not exceed 12 mils total film thickness, including all undercoats for long term stability and to avoid the stone bruising and edge chipping associated with more thickness.

 

[Texas82GP]

Since the rest of the car is down to bare metal and since it is that old laquer, I would go ahead and DA it down to bare metal and then epoxy prime.

 

[H/O84]

Since the yrest of the car is down to bare metal and since it is that old laquer, I would go ahead and DA it down to bare metal and then epoxy prime.

not all of it. They only scuffed the truck and roof. The hood got primed. And it still has all the paint around the windshield. Do you think a few years from now when I bring this to a shop to get painted will they want to take it back down to the metal or just spray over what is already on it?

 

[Clutch]

not all of it. They only scuffed the truck and roof. The hood got primed. And it still has all the paint around the windshield. Do you think a few years from now when I bring this to a shop to get painted will they want to take it back down to the metal or just spray over what is already on it?

Unfortunately you only get what you pay for is it going to a restoration shop or a collision shop? Are they reputable? Can you trust them? You see there are a lot of shops that are more than willing to do it wrong and take your money collision shops are a different bisness than restoration shops and real restoration shops are expensive if you want to do it right you will have to pay for it doing a car right takes time and shops are paid by the hour
I have my glasses on tonight and unlike last night my eyes are not full of rust and brake fluid from fixing my truck to get to work and I've looked at the picture of the roof it's checked and shows sines of hidden rust in the cracks do not go over it go to metal or suffer later
My answer is still get it blasted

 

[H/O84]

What cracks are you talking about I don't see any. All I can see is all the lines from where they scuffed it and the blackish brown looking spots are the rust inhibitor turning a weird color in my garage lights