for you guys that ever need to break in a cam

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mkube396

Greasemonkey
Aug 28, 2009
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South Buffalo / West seneca NY
Re: for you guys that ever need to need to break in a cam

when I put an engine back together the install lube is washed away when I build up oil pressure with a drill. I use break in oil so the cam and it's bearings are coated with it before it's fired up. That being said I still wouldn't and have not used the comp cam lubricant
 
Re: for you guys that ever need to need to break in a cam

This is why everybody should just run roller cams :lol:

I think using a quality paste on the lobes of a flat tappet cam and break in oil like pontiacgp said is paramount. Joe gibbs, brad penn, etc make good break in oils. I used Redline cam lube and Brad Penn break in oil with great results. No wiped lobes here. But my engine will be getting a roller cam in the near future.
 
Re: for you guys that ever need to need to break in a cam

The break-in oil or additive that you use is the most important :!:

Like pontiacgp said, the initial priming of the oil system will wash the installation lube away. The type of installation lube depends more on how long it will be before that engine is getting fired up. My dad and I put a camshaft in a FORD block back in 2002 and used this graphite lube ... I have the block sitting in my garage now and that lube is still completely covering the camshaft.
 
Re: for you guys that ever need to need to break in a cam

CHRIS.O said:
This is why everybody should just run roller cams :lol:

I think using a quality paste on the lobes of a flat tappet cam and break in oil like pontiacgp said is paramount. Joe gibbs, brad penn, etc make good break in oils. I used Redline cam lube and Brad Penn break in oil with great results. No wiped lobes here. But my engine will be getting a roller cam in the near future.

I have a roller now and one thing with the roller is you don't your valve lash have too much clearance. The rollers on the lifters can be damaged if they are banging on the cam instead of rolling. To set my valve lash I use this method that is recommended by GM for the 604 crate, I have the same cam...

1. Position engine at top dead center (TDC) on #1 cylinder in firing position.
Adjust intake valves on #2 and #7 cylinders.
Adjust exhaust valves on #4 and # 8 cylinders.

2. Rotate crankshaft 1/2 revolution clockwise.
Adjust intake valves on #1 and #8 cylinders.
Adjust exhaust valves on #3 and #6 cylinders.

3. Rotate crankshaft 1/2 revolution clockwise to #6 cylinder in firing position.
Adjust intake valves on #3 and # 4 cylinders
Adjust exhaust valves on #5 and #7 cylinders.

4. Rotate crankshaft 1/2 revolution clockwise.
Adjust intake valves on #5 and #6 cylinders
Adjust exhaust valves on #1 and #2 cylinders
 
Re: for you guys that ever need to need to break in a cam

Anything over .500" lift has to be adjusted like this to be on the true base circle of the lobe. Once the exhaust just starts to open adjust the intake, then rotate till the intake opens all the way and when its just about closed adjust the exhaust. Under .500" lift I use this method because u only have to make one full rotation of the crank. Start with 1 on TDC compression adjust Exhaust 1,3,4,8 Intake 1,2,5,7 Next turn crank 360 degrees and adjust Exhaust 2,5,6,7 Intake 3,4,6,8
 
Re: for you guys that ever need to need to break in a cam

I was told I need to use the method I posted was with a roller cam the lobes on the cam are not as sharp as on a flat tappet so the method with one revolution will not give you an accurate reading since the lifter will not be at the lowest position. I was also told that roller make more noise than the flat tappet, which it does, so to keep them as quiet as possible the valve lash needs to be right on..when I had the flat tappet I used the 1 revolution method, it's alot quicker
 
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