Frame body mount holes

[L92 OLDS]

I’m sure this has been asked but there is some sort of locking nut welded inside the chassis for the position like 3 and 4 body mounts? I am trying to remove them on my 80 and broke the passengers sides and they fell out thank god but the drivers side are just spinning... anybody know what needs to be repaired. I see there is a body mount kit but it looks like it’s for the trunk only

Your cage nuts in those locations are toast. It’s unfortunate but very common. You can buy new cage nuts and weld them in. To do so you will need to access them from the top.

C122 - 1967-74 Camaro, Firebird, Nova, GM X Body; Subframe Body Mount Cage Nut; Each

Reproduction of the original subframe cage nut designed for use with various 1967-74 GM models as listed. This body mount cage nut is manufactured from stamped steel and used to fasten the subframe to the body.

www.classicindustries.com

 

[403Olds]

I got my frame repair washers from Fastenal.

 

[565bbchevy]

For my Regal I just made my own cage nuts out of 1/4" Uni Strut washers and welded whatever size nut I needed on top and then welded in short angle iron pieces to contain them, I was never a fan of the thin sheet metal containment on the factory cage nuts,

 

[Hotboyrn84]

Your cage nuts in those locations are toast. It’s unfortunate but very common. You can buy new cage nuts and weld them in. To do so you will need to access them from the top.

C122 - 1967-74 Camaro, Firebird, Nova, GM X Body; Subframe Body Mount Cage Nut; Each

Reproduction of the original subframe cage nut designed for use with various 1967-74 GM models as listed. This body mount cage nut is manufactured from stamped steel and used to fasten the subframe to the body.

www.classicindustries.com

Thanks, i was assuming so... every time I say hey something is in good shape I find something else to fix. Do ppl always cut from the top because to get the locking nut in the right place u have to test fit with the bushing on? Could I not do the repair with the frame lifted and cutiing it out from below and just having the one weld? Or to treat the rust inside the frame in that area is the reason for the floor cut? If either I guess make the cut now and cut out the caged nuts and repair. I think I’m gonna go cheap and buy the bolts and weld em to some 18 gauge and weld those patches in.

 

[Hotboyrn84]

For my Regal I just made my own cage nuts out of 1/4" Uni Strut washers and welded whatever size nut I needed on top and then welded in short angle iron pieces to contain them, I was never a fan of the thin sheet metal containment on the factory cage nuts,
View attachment 174931

Did you cut from the top as well or is it possible to make the repair in less cuts and welding? I was hoping to get around cutting through the floor... I haven’t found much on the topic but what I have seen everyone goes through the floor though so I pretty much already have my answer smh.

 

[Hotboyrn84]

Thanks, i was assuming so... every time I say hey something is in good shape I find something else to fix. Do ppl always cut from the top because to get the locking nut in the right place u have to test fit with the bushing on? Could I not do the repair with the frame lifted and cutiing it out from below and just having the one weld? Or to treat the rust inside the frame in that area is the reason for the floor cut? If either I guess make the cut now and cut out the caged nuts and repair. I think I’m gonna go cheap and buy the bolts and weld em to some 18 gauge and weld those patches in.

Ok I saw the floating caged comment and I’m on a time crunch but I do want it done close to factory so thanks a ton. When u install those are the weld points only the tab areas?

 

[64nailhead]

offOk I saw the floating caged comment and I’m on a time crunch but I do want it done close to factory so thanks a ton. When u install those are the weld points only the tab areas?

I understand factory correctness, but no one is ever going to see your fix unless they change the body bushing or do a frame off resto on your car.

Very similar to what 565 mentioned, I use a piece of 3/4 or 1" flat stock, drill a 1/2" hole in it, then weld a nut onto it. A piece of flat stock 3-4" long is plenty long enough to engage the frame rail and still short enough to fit through the bushing hole. It can be a little troublesome to get the bolt started if you are unaware of what's in there, but after that it's 1/2 impact work to tighten and loosen.

Never seize is your friend on this particular job.

 

[melloelky]

I understand factory correctness, but no one is ever going to see your fix unless they change the body bushing or do a frame off resto on your car.

Very similar to what 565 mentioned, I use a piece of 3/4 or 1" flat stock, drill a 1/2" hole in it, then weld a nut onto it. A piece of flat stock 3-4" long is plenty long enough to engage the frame rail and still short enough to fit through the bushing hole. It can be a little troublesome to get the bolt started if you are unaware of what's in there, but after that it's 1/2 impact work to tighten and loosen.

Never seize is your friend in any particular job on the planet...😉

 

[565bbchevy]

Did you cut from the top as well or is it possible to make the repair in less cuts and welding? I was hoping to get around cutting through the floor... I haven’t found much on the topic but what I have seen everyone goes through the floor though so I pretty much already have my answer smh.

If you are doing a cage nut repair you have to access it from the top, I use my plasma cutter to cut a flap that I can weld it shut when I am done.
Chances are there might also be some rust you might have to clean up in this area as well

 

[Hotboyrn84]

I understand factory correctness, but no one is ever going to see your fix unless they change the body bushing or do a frame off resto on your car.

Very similar to what 565 mentioned, I use a piece of 3/4 or 1" flat stock, drill a 1/2" hole in it, then weld a nut onto it. A piece of flat stock 3-4" long is plenty long enough to engage the frame rail and still short enough to fit through the bushing hole. It can be a little troublesome to get the bolt started if you are unaware of what's in there, but after that it's 1/2 impact work to tighten and loosen.

Never seize is your friend on this particular job.

So I was assuming I welded it into the floor with the nut welded above the bolt hole. I cut the floor open today and it was such a rusted mess I couldn’t grasp what had been there to try to recreate it smh. Anyone have a picture at all?