First, thanks for all the replies everyone I really appreciate it. To answer some of you, I’m not entirely sure where I fall on the functionality VS look. I feel like going through all this work I want it to look good, but also I don’t have access to professional equipment and supplies and am doing this in my free time in my garage/driveway so I’ll have to think on that one. CopperNick I looking into the rust mort and that seems like it would handle what’s left by the wire brush. I still would like to know if I’m doing any damage by using the flap wheel? I like that I have nice shiny metal, and it really cleaned up some of the sloppy factory welds, I’m just unsure if I’m taking too much metal off to get there.
Frame restoration questions
- Thread starter 81gutlass
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I used POR15 and a brush on a C10 chassis I had sandblasted. Blow all the sand dust out of the crevices. I finished it with two coats of their 'Top Coat' in Chassis Black, which is UV resistant. Also get a bottle of their solvent to thin the paint a little so it flows better. As you get toward the bottom of your paint cup, a lot the solvent has flashed off, so a drip of thinner here and there keeps it going where you want it to go, while minimizing the brush marks. If you put the next coat on while the first one is just barely tacky, you avoid having to sand between coats. Read the directions. The rust paint is super glossy, while the Top Coat is a semi-gloss.
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Using the wire cup isn't doing any damage, have at it. Do you have a compressor? If yes, buy the cheap hand blaster from Harbor Freight and blast away. It will get rid of the shiny metal and give good adhesion for the primer. I'm not a por15 fan unless you like the "I painted with a brush look!" Again, if you have air, buy a frame paint and spray it. You don't have to do it in one day.
I blasted my frame (in my driveway) with chemours starblast xl and used the por 15 products, very happy with the results.
I used Eastwood's undercoating gun with their hose and 360° nozzle to get inside the frame, seemed to work very well. Used paint brush for everything else.
Por15 says you need to use their degreaser and metal prep before applying the rust preventative product. As others have mentioned, it's not UV stable so you may want to add a the topcoat product which is UV resistant. I applied silver por15 for the first coat and black for the second coat, as suggested by the por15 tech services.
I used Eastwood's undercoating gun with their hose and 360° nozzle to get inside the frame, seemed to work very well. Used paint brush for everything else.
Por15 says you need to use their degreaser and metal prep before applying the rust preventative product. As others have mentioned, it's not UV stable so you may want to add a the topcoat product which is UV resistant. I applied silver por15 for the first coat and black for the second coat, as suggested by the por15 tech services.
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Flap Wheels come in various grits. If you check the back of the wheel it will show the grit. 40 is for material removal, 60 is for cleaning up seams and edges and surfaces, 80 is for smoothing things out. The 40 is the most aggressive and will take off material the fastest but it, like most flap wheels, will clog up if dealing with undercoating or similar.
If you are just trying to smooth the seams/edges down a little, then the 60 ought to work just fine. The trick is not to get too aggressive and lean on the wheel. Light passes, minimal material removal, get as close to smooth as possible, and then stop. Remember that most of the sanding and smoothing you do will be buried under the body or behind paint.
Nick
If you are just trying to smooth the seams/edges down a little, then the 60 ought to work just fine. The trick is not to get too aggressive and lean on the wheel. Light passes, minimal material removal, get as close to smooth as possible, and then stop. Remember that most of the sanding and smoothing you do will be buried under the body or behind paint.
Nick
This is what I was wondering, my wheel was a 40 so I’ll go get a higher grit! Thanks everyone, your guys frames look awesome I can’t wait til mine looks that good, I’m super excited to finally be doing this and can’t wait to finish! I started stripping the suspension off last night and didn’t do anymore metal cleaning but I borrowed a friends sandblast gun so I’m going to use that for the nooks and crannies the brush/wheel can’t reach. I would do the whole frame but I just have a small compressor that wouldn’t be able to keep up. I suppose I could do small sections every night but we will see how it goes. Again, you guys are awesome!
Okay, so what is with all the spacers between the coils on your springs?? Someone trying to stiffen up the action? If you are down that far and have the rear end out, maybe a pair of SS springs might be a thing to consider. They are progressively wound, meaning the coils are closer to each other at the top. Makes them stiffer, which may be what those wedges were supposed to accomplish. I wouldn't suggest them simply because they interfere with the response rate of the spring and really do nothing to help the spring act as it should. As for source, good used might be as close as E-Bay, elsewise new could come from Energy Suspension or CPP or Hotchkis or any of the companies offering products that have ads on this board.
Nick
Nick
F41 Progressively wound? If you got a picture of one please post it. Moog has what they call Cargo Coils that are progressively wound.
68-88 Heavy Load Rear Springs (pair) | Dixie Restoration Depot
www.dixierestorationdepot.com
Dixie advertises on this board.
Nick
Those aftermarket are not SS (RPO F41) springs, they are aftermarket non OEM that will fit any G Body car. Just so we are talking apples to apples.68-88 Heavy Load Rear Springs (pair) | Dixie Restoration Depot
Dixie advertises on this board.
Nick
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