One of my largest problems with the wire brush is that it actually provides very little tooth for a product a stick to. make it makes it too shiny there's little mechanical adhesion to be had.does it work?sure but..
Frame restoration questions
- Thread starter 81gutlass
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liquidh8
Comic Book Super Hero
Personally, I get my frames blasted, use epoxy primer, and a good frame/chassis paint. I no longer use por-15 for anything. you could also get it blasted and use a Direct To Metal (DTM) coating,. such as those from ppg (like Durathane) that are used in the commercial business. I've used the red and black DTM on suspension parts with great success.
Everyone has a way, pick a way you comfortable with and/or can afford and good luck!
Everyone has a way, pick a way you comfortable with and/or can afford and good luck!
Although I absolutely HATE that waxy crap, there's only one way to properly restore a G-body to factory stock. And that's with waxy crap.
Short of dipping it into a vat, this looks to be the easiest way to get the stuff.
petroleumservicecompany.com
Still contemplating it, though. But I still despise that garbage.
Short of dipping it into a vat, this looks to be the easiest way to get the stuff.
NOX-RUST X-121 BLACK
NOX-RUST X-121 BLACK thixotropic wax rustproofing compound designed to provide a long-term protective film for automotive primed and unprimed surfaces. NOX-RUST X-121 BLACK will dry to a black, firm wax-like film that will repel water, self-heal, and remain flexible at low temperatures. It is a...
petroleumservicecompany.com
Still contemplating it, though. But I still despise that garbage.
Although I absolutely HATE that waxy crap, there's only one way to properly restore a G-body to factory stock. And that's with waxy crap.
Short of dipping it into a vat, this looks to be the easiest way to get the stuff.
NOX-RUST X-121 BLACK
NOX-RUST X-121 BLACK thixotropic wax rustproofing compound designed to provide a long-term protective film for automotive primed and unprimed surfaces. NOX-RUST X-121 BLACK will dry to a black, firm wax-like film that will repel water, self-heal, and remain flexible at low temperatures. It is a...
Still contemplating it, though. But I still despise that garbage.
I would get the pail of the waxy stuff instead of the aerosol version. Aerosol stuff usually usually crappier formulations and are best suited for just quick spot repairs.
Maybe, but I'm sure you can make it look really crappy using the aerosol, which would match the original, crappy looking stuff. I mean, how much crappier can you make it look? Runs, blotches, just general crapply appearance was the norm. Jury's still out on it and until it actually has to get coated, the decision would be made then. Maybe I can get some sloppy looking satin black and spray it on thick and heavy to mimic that crappy wax look?
Not just look crappier, they also adhere and perform crappier too. Aerosol coatings are super thinned out and generally provides poorer protection than similar stuff sprayed out of a air gun which tends to be less thinned. Furthermore aerosol applied coatings tend to be really soft as well. Aerosol coatings including paint tends to just be garbage, even a cheap HF paint gun is lightyears better.
Not too worried about it. Not like it would be living a hard life anyway afterwards.
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