Frankenstein - 1980 Cutlass with Buick 455

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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
Been on the forum for a minute, I guess it's time to start a build thread. Scroll down for pics.

Dad had built this car up about 20 years ago, engine, trans, rear end, suspension work, body and paint were all done. gave it to his wife, they divorced a few years ago and she didn't want it. It sat for most of the 20 years and had some mechanical issues when it was parked the last time about 5 or 6 years ago. Dad gave it to me this past August.

1980 Cutlass, originally diesel. Dad swapped a hot 455 into it and something wasn't right so the first engine was cooked after a few 1/4 mile passes. It was running mid 12's. 2nd engine is something of a Frankenstein monster, I think '75 block, crank, and rods with earlier or TA performance replacement pistons. Bottom end was completely rebuilt, doesn't have any more than about 5000 miles on it. I got a 2nd set of heads with the car from a '71 engine. Had the '71 heads milled .02 and machined for the stage 1 valves and aftermarket springs, also a nice performance grind on the exhaust bowls. Replaced cam and lifters (TA 413), timing cover / oil pump assembly (TA Performance), distributor gear, and installed the '71 heads with the original aluminum rockers that had come off them.

It's been back on the road part-time since about September or October, I've been working gremlins out of it a little at a time.

Installed an electric fan.
Olds electric fan.jpg


Recently re-plumbed the fuel lines from the fuel pump to the carb, rebuilt the carb and adjusted floats and choke, found heat-soak from manifold causing fuel to boil in the float bowls when I shut the car down causing fuel to leak out at the throttle shaft. Insulator / spacer plate will be installed this weekend.

Next on the list will be fixing the driver seat bracket setup, it has a couple brackets broken

Once I see a decent run of nice weather I will be working on the wiring. The turn signals quit working, power from the fuse box to the HVAC went bad (bypassed to battery with in-line fuse for now), I believe the electrical issues to be due to corrosion from sitting for so long, also I'm planning to re-pin the connectors in the dash and install the correct sending units to swap out the granny sweep gauge cluster for the rally pack cluster.

Going to try to get the hood fixed this Summer.

Olds in driveway.jpg
Olds in driveway2.jpg


More posts to come as I make progress.

- Steve
 
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RegalBegal

G-Body Guru
Jul 10, 2009
705
747
93
Goldsboro, NC
Always nice to see another BBB in a G body. Your gonna want to block the heat crossovers in the heads to fix the fuel boil.
 
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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
Always nice to see another BBB in a G body. Your gonna want to block the heat crossovers in the heads to fix the fuel boil.

It has the TA SP1 intake on it, I don't remember for sure, but I don't think those passages are there on the intake.

Edit:

I was wrong, I just got off the phone with TA, the manifold does have that passage. If the spacer doesn't fix the fuel boiling I will be pulling the intake and plugging those ports.
 
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565bbchevy

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Aug 8, 2011
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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
I don't know which spacer you have or what carb style you need to match but I use laminated phenolic spacers to keep my carbs cool, they are stronger than wood and can be ported and I get mine from Jomar.
http://www.jomarperformance.com/powercone.php
I got the 1/2" wood/phenolic mix from Edelbrock. Ordered a new valley pan set and freeze plugs to plug the exhaust crossover ports that will be waiting for me at the local O'Reilly's store tomorrow. Also going to try a 180 degree thermostat instead of the 195 that is currently installed. Will keep y'all posted.

Edit: It's an Edelbrock Performer 750 carb.
 
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RegalBegal

G-Body Guru
Jul 10, 2009
705
747
93
Goldsboro, NC
It has the TA SP1 intake on it, I don't remember for sure, but I don't think those passages are there on the intake.

Edit:

I was wrong, I just got off the phone with TA, the manifold does have that passage. If the spacer doesn't fix the fuel boiling I will be pulling the intake and plugging those ports.

I tried the spacer trick with mine, it didnt help. Also, i run mine with a 160 thermostat. Runs nice and cool even on the hottest days.
 
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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
So I plugged the exhaust crossover ports in the heads:
Olds Exhaust Port Plugs.jpg
Olds Pass Side Intake.jpg
Olds Front Intake.jpg
Olds Rear.jpg


Installed the spacer under the carb and got it all put back together.

Runs a little better, no more fuel boiling and leaking out the carb.

After warming up and driving around a bit it wouldn't start back up. No 12V. Found battery cable end at starter to be corroded and loose. Started raining again, once the rain lets up I will be blocking the car up so I can get to the starter (and see it a little easier) from underneath. Likely will need to replace the cable, hopefully didn't rip the connection inside the starter loose trying to tighten it.

Will have more news next week.

- Steve
 
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