Front end rebuld kits???

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The idler arm is most likely the part that has the car feeling like its 'wandering' all over the road. Replace it first and see if the problem just resolves after that. If your front springs are rusted or smashed they will have to be replaced same time. The spacers are the next thing I was going to look at but I have Cutlass and the issue of meandering steering is more common on Cutlass than Malibu w the 17 inch billets. You should not have to run spacers on Malibu to cure these symptoms; the idler arm, springs, shocks, and bushings should solve it all. If you replace all that and the car still sucks the control arms are next, but you should really just bite down and purchase them when the rest of the front end is already in shambles. That's your one shot to do all the pieces same time and have a good alignment. Another issue to check for was that I noticed the power steering fluid spurned a leak after I got the Billets. When the power steering leak happened I thought something else was going wrong for days until I happened to find it. There was not a noise, it was just a long delay in communication from the steering wheel to the ground, like at least a half second to .75 second delay. I drove around for a few weeks telling myself 'its probably just the added weight of the new rims' but thats a cop out. The stock system can get a leak or some bubbles in it easily after putting bigger rims on the car, check to make sure it has not developed a small leak or is just going defective on you. There should be NO delay between steering and the wheels reacting on the ground or else the power steering components just need replaced. When I got honest with myself and redid all the power steering equipment there was no longer any delay between moving the steering wheel and the wheels responding. With the heavier 17's under the car a power steering delay could be the difference between crashing or not!
 
Skip the poly bushings, they will deform from cold flow and throw off your front end alignment. Get some GM 1LE rubber bushings instead, they will allow proper free movement without any binding or sticking and won't cold flow.
 
Ok well with no disrespect to the G-body forum, I just priced out all the exact same Moog components on Rockauto.com for over $100 less than the forum price shipped to my house so thats what im going to do. Im also going to order a polyurethane upper and lower control arm bushings off ebay.

Pencero, I am not experiencing any delay in steering response as u were describing so im not too worried about that. It just feels like i gotta really work at it to keep the car from wandering and fight bump steer all the time. I just want to be able to sit back and chill comfortably with the car going in a smooth straight line down the road.
 
The poly bushings are really stiff compared to the 1LE rubber ones but if you get the right moog springs front / back you can get the ride quality the car deserves. Some people have suggested running moog springs for 78 Seville in the rear to make up for too stiff handling. W/ a good rear sway bar the 17s should hook up good or better than stock so make sure yours is good or you are missing out on getting some power to the ground. It really does make a bigger difference after I set up a stiff 'new' (olddddddd) rear sway bar things really tightened up. Another thing I would mention is if you are running gas shocks idk why so many people like them but I found mine kind of lame w the 17's and went w traditional shocks. At least they give you some kind of warning when they blow out instead of suddenly the car is so difficult to steer if one of those damn gas shocks blows out its over with.
 
That was my thread 🙂 and here's the info!!

Centerlink assembly DS909 $50.79
Idler Arm K6187T $27.79
Outer Tie Rod End (need 2) ES2033RLT $14.15
Inner Tie Rod End (need 2) ES2034RLT $14.76
Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve (need 2 - or can use Hotchkis solid kit for $50) ES2032S $7.43
 
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