Front spring install suggestions
- Thread starter Doug Chahoy
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tape the isolator to the top of the spring.
What I have done on both of my G bodies was to enlarge the upper shock mount hole, using the internal spring compressor (remove the part that goes towards the bolt head) insert the bolt down through the shock mount hole, install spring with isolator taped in place, thread bottom of compressor on bolt (leave it up from the bottom of the spring about 2 or 3 coils), position bottom of spring to fit in lower control arm, tighten bolt to compress spring, raise lower control arm & install ball joint nut.
What I have done on both of my G bodies was to enlarge the upper shock mount hole, using the internal spring compressor (remove the part that goes towards the bolt head) insert the bolt down through the shock mount hole, install spring with isolator taped in place, thread bottom of compressor on bolt (leave it up from the bottom of the spring about 2 or 3 coils), position bottom of spring to fit in lower control arm, tighten bolt to compress spring, raise lower control arm & install ball joint nut.
I was able to put my springs in & keep the isolator in place with no issues on a bare frame. The springs were a pain as expected. I did use poly isolators so they did hug the upper seat to help keep them in place.
wv hillbilly is on the right track.....however I have a similar but easier way.....
Drop the whole bottom arm out of the frame.
Bolt the shock onto the bottom arm and then sit the spring in its location on the arm.
Sit the whole assembly on your floor jack and lift it into place guiding the extended shock pin up through the hole in the frame. Yes, have the bushes in place on the pin and nip the nut up once it is through.
You can now take some weight off the jack because the shock is holding everything. Now shuffle the ball joint into position and nip that up. You may need to reposition the jack under the balljoint.
Once that is done move the jack back to under the spring area and lift the arm. It will now swing the frame mounting points up into their pockets...yes they should just slide into place. It's a good time to grease those bushes too....makes them easier to align with their bolt holes.
Drop the whole bottom arm out of the frame.
Bolt the shock onto the bottom arm and then sit the spring in its location on the arm.
Sit the whole assembly on your floor jack and lift it into place guiding the extended shock pin up through the hole in the frame. Yes, have the bushes in place on the pin and nip the nut up once it is through.
You can now take some weight off the jack because the shock is holding everything. Now shuffle the ball joint into position and nip that up. You may need to reposition the jack under the balljoint.
Once that is done move the jack back to under the spring area and lift the arm. It will now swing the frame mounting points up into their pockets...yes they should just slide into place. It's a good time to grease those bushes too....makes them easier to align with their bolt holes.
I use electrical tape to hold the isolater on. And I leave the ball joint connected and undo the two inner mounting bolts and lower the arm down that way. Put the spring into position and jack the arm back up by the lip between the two bushings. It may take a little bit to get the bolts lined up and a tapered punch will help. No spring compressor required. I've been doing it that way for years without an issue. I even did it that way last summer on my 442 and used moog 5610 springs which are just about the tallest g body spring there is with no compressor.
Boy do I wish I heard of the way the last 2 posts do it days ago. I got it done with the compressor and jack. I cleaned the frame pocket where the sprng seats real good, then glued the isolator where it’s going to live. Now it’s on to steering arms and total brake system replacement/upgrade. Thanx for all the advice
Stop a minute. You are using shorter springs and you are still having trouble? Something is wrong. Front springs are hard but not that hard. Unless your spring rate is substantially higher it should "go right in". I used quotes because obviously it never does. But I've done full size Chevy trucks and haven't worked as hard as you are describing. Look for the obvious problems such as things hanging up. The old isolator still in there hiding out. Something like that. I always use a floor jack under the control arm. Make sure you as far out under the ball joint as possible. Not under the spring. You want leverage. Loosen the upper ball joint and pop it so you can gain an inch or so of additional length in the spindle. Jack the back of the car up higher than the front to shift more weight onto the front. Get a few friends and have them sit in the car.
Good luck and be careful
Good luck and be careful
The Moog 5660s are a really strong stiff spring that were a real “EX WIFE “to replace . The compressor had a tough time.
I put the springs in liquid nitrogen then wait until they shrink down to about 12" and then drop them place. I leave both ball joints in place and only have to make sure the spring is in place as it expands.....
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