Front tire angle concern

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Here is a picture of the LCA angle on My t-Type:
ZQ8 S10 Extreme microcell Bumpstop on frame.jpg


With Stiff springs (cut Moog 700lb) and ZQ8 bumpstops I had the Lower Control arms almost horizontal. Ride was good and I drove it 750 miles in a day averaging nearly 80 mph and it never "Bottomed". I'm in the middle of redoing it, now.

With Tall springs, you don't need as stiff a spring, but because suspension movement will be more, you'll want a big front sway bar AND Tall ball joints, because you are in the bad "Bump Steer" regime of the suspension travel (Wheel will toe out a lot when it goes up)
 
in a perfect world, your front tire camber should be leaned out .5 degrees at the top of the tire. have you rolled the car back and forward to relieve the preload on the the front suspension that occurs after jacking the car up?
were the tires angled like this before you worked on the car?
what else did you change? was it only the drop spindles or were there other items changed also? new springs, control arms? etc?

if you only changed the spindles and have checked every thing else we have suggested and you removed all the shims in the upper control arm, i would have to say you have the wrong spindles.

How do you define leaned out? Because to me that sounds like positive camber which is the devil. You want negative camber, I'll set mine at no less than 1 degree negative camber whenever I get around to it.
 
The Owner
How do you define leaned out? Because to me that sounds like positive camber which is the devil. You want negative camber, I'll set mine at no less than 1 degree negative camber whenever I get around to it.

With Arms angled that low, it should actually have positive camber, with a proper camber curve. If the Car had Regular spindles, Slap on some larger tires and it looks like it could go rallycrossing:
image-jpg.167442


With tall ball joints, you can get away with much less static Camber, because under compression, -1 degrees goes to -2.5 degrees and under extension , it goes to +.5 degrees.

A problem that Drop spindle people run into is they 1) keep the soft stock springs 2) set the static negative camber to neutral, then under compression, the cambers goes positive up inside the fender and the tire hits the inner fender lip (due to the negative camber curve).

These pictures looks like the soft stock springs were swapped with tall, stiff springs that could stand to lose a coil.
 
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How do you define leaned out? Because to me that sounds like positive camber which is the devil. You want negative camber, I'll set mine at no less than 1 degree negative camber whenever I get around to it.
factory camber spec is .5 degree positive +/- .5 degrees. what i was trying to indicate was that his tires are nowhere near where they should be. especially with the shims removed. heck, he could even put off-set upper control arms in and still not get there. something else is wrong. its not the upper control arms, or worn bushings or wrong spindles.
 
Rus's suspension geometry is over 3 inches higher than factory ride height, because even with drop spindles the car still looks like its higher than factory ride height. Above Factory ride height the wheel geometry goes all wonky (but its the unloaded tire on the inside of a turn, so it doesn't affect handling as much in normal driving.)

The Factory Camber settings & front suspension geometry are designed for the front end of the car to wash out and do .75 G on the skid pad. Non Ideal, Toyota pickup skid pad numbers.
 
So, I was referring to caster, and this all seems to be camber discussion. They go hand in hand, but whatever.
If you just installed the spindles, the ball joints probably aren't lined up, especially if new. Roll it back and forth, bounce it, drive it, or whatever it takes to get things moving.
What springs are they?
 
Wow something is up. That lca angle is crazy. Mine were almost parallel to the ground at stock height. Are your springs sitting in the pockets properly?
 
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The Owner

With Arms angled that low, it should actually have positive camber, with a proper camber curve. If the Car had Regular spindles, Slap on some larger tires and it looks like it could go rallycrossing:
image-jpg.167442


With tall ball joints, you can get away with much less static Camber, because under compression, -1 degrees goes to -2.5 degrees and under extension , it goes to +.5 degrees.

A problem that Drop spindle people run into is they 1) keep the soft stock springs 2) set the static negative camber to neutral, then under compression, the cambers goes positive up inside the fender and the tire hits the inner fender lip (due to the negative camber curve).

These pictures looks like the soft stock springs were swapped with tall, stiff springs that could stand to lose a coil.

That doesn't look out of this world bad to me. Jam some spacers behind the UCAs and you'll be good to go.
 
Wow something is up. That lca angle is crazy. Mine were almost parallel to the ground at stock height. Are your springs sitting in the pockets properly?
Yes, they are
I plan to change the springs today to see if that causes a difference as I do not know ratings of the springs on it now.
 
I just snapped a pic of mine. My car is lowered a bit.
 

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