Some of the posi's are limited, like one is for 3.08 and below, then another is for 3.23 and up.
Gearing/Trans/Build issue. Got lost!
- Thread starter Lazarus
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Really awesome shop. Each item is referenced for price. If I removed the motor from the trans and brought it down for rebuild . I save $800.00. However If I already had the engine in before. He can set , test and adjust everything plus clean the lines and rad . Which is included . Only way to get a full warranty.
The 350 olds Price is based off several different companies I found in Google. Other wise found one in a local scrap yard. From a 70 cutlass. Can turn by han . $500 + 3k at machine shop. Lol Thinking $5/$7000.00. Would that be a fair budget?
Those numbers should get you on the road. Be forewarned, plan to keep the car before you lay out that much money - you'll never get that much back out of the car if you try to sell it later. Has nothing to do with YOUR car - that's my read on many car projects over the years, of all makes.
[QUOTE="Lazarus, post: 499092, member: 23076]He can set , test and adjust everything plus clean the lines and rad . Which is included . Only way to get a full warranty."/QUOTE]
Yes, do this. No sense putting crappy fluids back into a fresh motor and transmission.
Yes, do this. No sense putting crappy fluids back into a fresh motor and transmission.
You can order gears for the rear end. Richmond, Gear vendors, Randy's ring and pinion.
There are some limitations as to what ratio you can run with a given carrier.
As in on mine 2:41 I can go up to a 3:08 without a carrier change.
You may find that since yours is a 2:56 and PT that the options could maybe include 3:23.
Which for my car would be perfect. I have really tall rear tires and no overdrive.
So remember if you are going to install or already have larger rear tires this causes
the ratio in the rear end to be a bit less numerically.
There are some limitations as to what ratio you can run with a given carrier.
As in on mine 2:41 I can go up to a 3:08 without a carrier change.
You may find that since yours is a 2:56 and PT that the options could maybe include 3:23.
Which for my car would be perfect. I have really tall rear tires and no overdrive.
So remember if you are going to install or already have larger rear tires this causes
the ratio in the rear end to be a bit less numerically.
Great thanks hate to waste the guys time sorting through that. Honestly my best bet is to source or build the engine first. Get the stats then run the trans and rear ratios through with that info. Now with the 70 rocket 350. Can I run a modern coil pack distributor. Or will I be reduced to points or some contraption from MSD? Like to avoid having to Frankenstein the wireing harness.
You can run just a standard V8 Olds HEI distributor in your 350 like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331657934409?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and you can always upgrade the module etc.
Or you could go with the much more expensive MSD set up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331657934409?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and you can always upgrade the module etc.
Or you could go with the much more expensive MSD set up.
http://www.precisionengine.com/rebuilt-engines/oldsmobile-crate-engines/
This is a crate motor in your budget but getting that 70 as core and building it is a much better idea. Use the Speed Pro LF2321 is .030" over size pistons. Add at least a 215 duration cam and you will be happy. I say Street Demon 750 on a Performer RPM intake. I would also add bowl work and 2.07"/1.625" valves with matching springs to the cam you pick. You want no less than 3.42 gears, even with the short stock tires I turn 1850 rpm at 60 mph with those gears. I would do a Truetrac or used Fbody Torsen posi. You can find 3.23-3.73 gears with that posi in the late 90's-00's F bodies. Only thing extra needed is Moser 28 spline G body axles. I just bought a 70 Cutlass S that someone transplanted a good running Olds 260. I thought it was going to be awful, stock besides dual exhaust. Was surprised, was decent. Turned out the car is optioned with 3.23 gears, makes a big difference. With the 260 I averaged around 20 imperial mpg, not bad in my books.
This is a crate motor in your budget but getting that 70 as core and building it is a much better idea. Use the Speed Pro LF2321 is .030" over size pistons. Add at least a 215 duration cam and you will be happy. I say Street Demon 750 on a Performer RPM intake. I would also add bowl work and 2.07"/1.625" valves with matching springs to the cam you pick. You want no less than 3.42 gears, even with the short stock tires I turn 1850 rpm at 60 mph with those gears. I would do a Truetrac or used Fbody Torsen posi. You can find 3.23-3.73 gears with that posi in the late 90's-00's F bodies. Only thing extra needed is Moser 28 spline G body axles. I just bought a 70 Cutlass S that someone transplanted a good running Olds 260. I thought it was going to be awful, stock besides dual exhaust. Was surprised, was decent. Turned out the car is optioned with 3.23 gears, makes a big difference. With the 260 I averaged around 20 imperial mpg, not bad in my books.
A 455, even a smog motor will be massive improvement over the 307. Problem is there are many more failed 455 builds. Big heavy parts with bigger journals and improper clearances are the reason. The 2004R also needs beefed up a lot more. A billet forward drum and shaft is a necessity with 455, around $400 for that part. A deep pan, prefer the sheet metal rear sump pan, good 7 or 10 vane pump with hardened rings and a stiffer spring, no 13 vane, I had issues with one. Use at least a .500/.296" boost valves, a billet servo as good line pressure is key. Add quality clutches and steels set to spec, very important on these trans and it will live. I set the servo too tight on my last one, shifted great but lost reverse and OD.
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