Found a 8.2 10 bolt for sale here locally from an A body. Just wondering what some thoughts are on these rears? Worth my time at all as an upgrade from the 7.5? Its real clean and the guy wants $100.00 Planning on a 500 ish horse street/strip car.
Gm 8.2 10 bolt questions
- Thread starter stubnosebrock
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for what its worth i have one in my car. had to shorten the driveshaft and make upper control arms. i believe they make some for this swap. i got a 4.11 limited slip 8.2 for free thats why i put it in there. its also wider than the old one which worked fine for me cuz i am widening my stock 14 inch rallye wheels and this results in a real deep offset. whatever stock rallye wheels are plus 2 inches is what my offset is and its gonna be perfect with an 8 inch wheel. i dont feel like it was a waste of time. like i said it was free and really i dont have any money in it yet except the money to have the wheels parted and like 8 bucks for the bands i made to widen them with.
you uppers have to be shorter than stock and have to have some angle in them to line up cuz the ears on the rears are at diff angles and spacing. but my car will be unique when im done for sure.
you uppers have to be shorter than stock and have to have some angle in them to line up cuz the ears on the rears are at diff angles and spacing. but my car will be unique when im done for sure.
That's a deal for sure...UMIPerformance.com sells a kit for this swap....It's pretty much a bolt in deal and they are stronger then the 7.5 rears for sure.Matter of fact Super Chevy Magazine August 2012 edition did a 10 bolt 8.2 rear upgrade and it was well written....You can also check it out at Superchevy.com I have a '69 12 boilt rear in my car and it was pretty much a direct swap with the UMI kit...PontiacGP did this recently as well and I'm sure he'll chime in soon....Grab it and have fun with it!! BTW, Welcome to GBF
So maybe theres a possibility of this being worth my time. I seems that the weak link would be the smaller pinion.
it just depends what ur gonna do with it. i doubt u would ever break one on the street. if it was a track only car on slicks and leaving at 5 grand off the transbrake then you may wanna do something a little stouter. I just did it cuz i know its better than a stock one, free, and i dont plan on ever going to the track with my car and if I do its gonna have street tires.
I have an 8.2 and if you read up on them they handle up to 500 hp without any upgrades. The one thing I would do is to check the pinion thrust washers if it's an Eaton posi. The original brass thrust washers wore prematurely and they were changed to a different metal at a later date. Mine came with the Eaton posi and 3.08 gears. I paid $600 without a second thought cause it took me a year to find it.
Just some FYI
the chevy style 8.2 10 bolts are C-clip style and have a lot more aftermarket support and less expensive parts.
The BOP 8.2 10 bolts have bolt-in axles but the aftermarket parts etc are less common and more expensive. For Buick there are significant differences from anything else in the 68-70 8.2 10 bolts - they are kind of oddball inside.
go for it. the 8.2 will take street abuse like mentioned above. Its better than a 7.5 for sure.
the chevy style 8.2 10 bolts are C-clip style and have a lot more aftermarket support and less expensive parts.
The BOP 8.2 10 bolts have bolt-in axles but the aftermarket parts etc are less common and more expensive. For Buick there are significant differences from anything else in the 68-70 8.2 10 bolts - they are kind of oddball inside.
go for it. the 8.2 will take street abuse like mentioned above. Its better than a 7.5 for sure.
I have an 8.2 out of a 68 chevelle. 3.08 gears open diff behind a sbc with roughly 300hp. It's holding great and the swap is easy. I used iceman swap arms but if I could go back I probably would have went with the umi arms based on customer service.
Jbrue helped me out with the 8.2 installation and he not meantion he had any issues with the lower control arms lining up. With the 64-67 version they are 2" more narrow then the 68-72 edition and the brackets on mine were closer together than the G body lower control arm brackets. The bolt for the lower at the rear end is on an angle thru the bushing. So in addition to the UMI conversion uppers I have the UMI lowers with the Roto Joint at one end. UMI doesn't list the Roto Joint on the lowers but they made me a set with just an small charge for the Roto Joints over the spherical joint.
This rear is from a 64 chevelle. Im planning on 500 ish horse. Mainly street car with sticky tires, with some track action here and there.
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