Hey im new here, bought a 1985 grand national the other day. But i have one problem, the rear brake fluid is leaking out and causing the rear brakes to not work. Any suggestions on what it might be?
Grand national brake fluid leaking
- Thread starter Nico6
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+2 pull the back break drums if the insides are wet buy new cyl. Buy s10 rear cyl they are better then the stock gns. Better holding power.
x3----------While your at it you might just as well replace the brake shoes and hardwear. Congrats on your score. Post some pics when ya can..Btw, welcome to GBF 8)chevy2480 said:
chevy2480 said:
the S10 cylinders have a larger piston if you get them from a manual brake S-10...the 83's came with manual brakes
When I did the manual s-10 brake cylinder upgrade it held better on the line which made for better 60 foots & ETs at the track. The down side was a panic stop especially in the rain would make the back brakes lock up so heads up. Test your car and find out. You can fix this if its a problem by adding a proportioning valve. At the time I also added both long soft shoes so that probably also contributed. I had a buddy with an 85 Ttype who wanted to get the license plate "uncool" since it did not have the intercooler. You can get them to go as fast as 12.9s at about 106 mph without getting into expensive mods & fabrication. Seen them go a lot faster with lots of money & work.
I added Razor's methanol/water injection kit and it was the single best upgrade I ever did. It would be even more beneficial for a hot air car. He has a website and posts often at www.turbobuicks.com. Great guy and super with tech support. Also check out www.gnttype.org for troubleshooting, recepies, scantool info, etc. One thing different about these cars compared to old school naturally aspirated cars is that you CANNOT turn up the boost etc and fly in the blind. You need to get a scantool and learn how to use it or you will frustrate yourself and burn sh*t up. Have fun with it.
I added Razor's methanol/water injection kit and it was the single best upgrade I ever did. It would be even more beneficial for a hot air car. He has a website and posts often at www.turbobuicks.com. Great guy and super with tech support. Also check out www.gnttype.org for troubleshooting, recepies, scantool info, etc. One thing different about these cars compared to old school naturally aspirated cars is that you CANNOT turn up the boost etc and fly in the blind. You need to get a scantool and learn how to use it or you will frustrate yourself and burn sh*t up. Have fun with it.
Re: Grand national
Thanks for the advice. I was looking at putting a intercooler in also. DO you think this is a worth while investment? and if i upgrade the turbo what kind of turbo should i put in? or is there better ways to upgrade the car that are more beneficial? Thanks agian
Thanks for the advice. I was looking at putting a intercooler in also. DO you think this is a worth while investment? and if i upgrade the turbo what kind of turbo should i put in? or is there better ways to upgrade the car that are more beneficial? Thanks agian
If you have the ability to fabricate ie torch & weld IF needed AND IF you can find all the neccessary turbo pipeing & brackets etc off say a wrecked GN for cheap than yes. Otherwise to the best of my knowledge no. Unless somebody has some type of conversion that I am unaware of or you are just prepared to fabricate & build whatever you need. Eitherway intercooler or not if it were mine I would use a methanol/water injection system. Buick almost did it as there is even a light in your instrument cluster pannel for it. But Buick could not warranty running more boost and people forgetting to fill their water tank and detonating it. If your factory turbo is working fine leave it as it can easily take you into the 12s even without an intercooler. Even with an intercooler you can't safely get past 17psi boost on only 93 octane. Where in comes race gas, Xylene gasoline homebrew, or methanol/alcohol/water injection. Race gas or a Xylene mix get expensive because you use it anytime the engine is running. Injection is set up to only come on a WOT after crossing X boost so you only use it when you need it. Unless you drag race it daily a few gallons will last all summer.
Scan tool, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, threaded waste gate rod or sometype of boost controller, & a boost guage. You need these relatively inexpensive essentials first or you will frustrate yourself with bad results and broken parts. Then maybe a chip, downpipe, & a "testpipe" in place of your cat converter. The "temporary test pipe" should not be welded in so that a police road check sniffer can't ticket you for it and or not having a cat converter. Rust holes in pipeing, weak turbo pipeing connection hose or their clamps, and dry rotted vacuum hoses or other vacuum leaks are common problems but usually an inexpensive easy fix once diagnosed. When the boost goes up it will blow past factory or weak up pipe hoses or clamps. 20psi is a lot of pressure.
Naturally you can't have bad plugs, wires, coil pak, ignition module or a weak fuel pump etc but at this point with tuneing and traction you could reach for some 12.90s. Still have little money into mods and still getting 20+mpg with AC cruise control & powerbrakes.
Scan tool, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, threaded waste gate rod or sometype of boost controller, & a boost guage. You need these relatively inexpensive essentials first or you will frustrate yourself with bad results and broken parts. Then maybe a chip, downpipe, & a "testpipe" in place of your cat converter. The "temporary test pipe" should not be welded in so that a police road check sniffer can't ticket you for it and or not having a cat converter. Rust holes in pipeing, weak turbo pipeing connection hose or their clamps, and dry rotted vacuum hoses or other vacuum leaks are common problems but usually an inexpensive easy fix once diagnosed. When the boost goes up it will blow past factory or weak up pipe hoses or clamps. 20psi is a lot of pressure.
Naturally you can't have bad plugs, wires, coil pak, ignition module or a weak fuel pump etc but at this point with tuneing and traction you could reach for some 12.90s. Still have little money into mods and still getting 20+mpg with AC cruise control & powerbrakes.
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