HEATED jeep steering shaft will NOT collapse

[HK_Camino]

I've been heating this steering shaft from a '93 cherokee with a propane torch for about 20 minutes straight, and its still rock solid. The thing just turned white from being thoroughly roasted.... I guess I'll try a ratcheting strap around it, I read hammering these is not good

I'm open to suggestions if anyone has had luck getting these to telescope

 

[64nailhead]

Throw it in a bucket of diesel fuel or kerosene for a couple of days. Or get another one.

You can beat on it with a mallet, but you have to use some common sense whenever busting out the hammer.

 

[HK_Camino]

I can't afford to just buy another one, and I'd likely have the same issue. I also don't have any vats of kerosene or diesel laying around, and I'm not confident that would work. it's not like the rubber that I'm trying to melt is exposed.

Does anyone know where on the shaft is the ideal place to heat? is there some other tool or trick to this I'm missing?

When I researched this job lots of people said its real easy. maybe I just got a crappy part. I guess stay away from this type of steering shaft? dunno.

 

[HK_Camino]

I found this info in a review for the same part I bought:

When he says "torched the nylon inserts" - anyone know what exactly is meant? I assume he means torching the sleeve where I have already tried applying heat

 

[L92 OLDS]

I've been heating this steering shaft from a '93 cherokee with a propane torch for about 20 minutes straight, and its still rock solid. The thing just turned white from being thoroughly roasted.... I guess I'll try a ratcheting strap around it, I read hammering these is not good

I'm open to suggestions if anyone has had luck getting these to telescope

The jeep shafts should NOT be heated. Why? Because the coupling was insert molded using Acetal resin. Heating it will release toxic formaldehyde gas. It will also ruin the shaft and make it sloppy. You need a good hydraulic press.

 

[HK_Camino]

The jeep shafts should NOT be heated. Why? Because the coupling was insert molded using Acetal resin. Heating it will release toxic formaldehyde gas. It will also ruin the shaft and make it sloppy. You need a good hydraulic press.

It's fine, I'm working in a well ventilated area. The Acetal resin is precisely what I want to melt and vaporize. Unfortunately I dont have a good hydraulic press lying around or I'd definitely use that.

 

[HK_Camino]

I'm beginning to think it's these dimples that are my problem. I think they may be some kind of rivet. I noticed other jeep shafts don't seem to have this. I might try drilling them out.

 

[L92 OLDS]

It's fine, I'm working in a well ventilated area. The Acetal resin is precisely what I want to melt and vaporize. Unfortunately I dont have a good hydraulic press lying around or I'd definitely use that.

Wrong answer unless you want cancer. Removing the Acetal will also make the shaft sloppy. Acetal is a crystalline resin with a very narrow processing range so when it gets hot enough when “heating with a propane torch” it will flow like water. You won’t see it burning. You could take your shaft to a shop and pay a minimal fee to have it compressed in a hydraulic press. Do it the right way. Come on man!

 

[565bbchevy]

If you have somebody compress it make sure it will still pull out otherwise you will be in the opposite situation.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Or you could use the correct part. I don't see the appeal in these shafts. The OE shaft, with a new rag joint coupler, works very well. And is engineered to fit without heating, beating, or welding. I even went so far as to install a new boot at the upper end to replace the torn 40-year-old one.

Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

BTW, the collision industry is taught that if the shaft has collapsed, it is to be replaced.