Help with 82 cutlass project log

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ForMySon

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 5, 2011
20
0
0
Tyler, TX
67rstbkt said:
Well, I can answer this question for you:

What do I do about rust
Thanks. The rust isn't too bad. I've started gathering tools like the wire brush and various rust sealing paints. We're gonna slowly work on it. The actual frame has alot of surface rust, but looks like it can be easily sanded off. We're thinking about sandblasting the whole car.
 

Burnhard

Master Mechanic
Jan 6, 2010
315
0
16
88hurstolds said:
Burnhard said:
The 350 is a better engine than the 455 and will out live a 455.
Based on what?

Bottom line is this, a 455 will allow for a direct swap and give you the performance a SBO will lack with the same money invested.
Go with a 455, find a pair of large valve C heads and do a mild build.
C heads are very abundant and can be found with work done to them already for around $500 and $200 for cores...
I have a 73 455 with large valve C heads, a built TH-400 and a 7.5" rear with 3.08 gears in my 1988 Cutlass, the car is more than quick for a street car, gets great gas mileage around 17mpg with adult driving and does low 13's.
I'm even running stock exhaust manifolds into a cat out to a Y-pipe with quiet mufflers, it's a sleeper... but is super fast for the street and extremely fun to drive :D
If you need more Oldsmobile performance guidance try the search function or Motor Combo forum on Realoldspower.com

The big block olds with its big crank rod and main journals are prone to having bearing issues,they do not like rpm.SBO is a great engine with a better bore to stroke ratio.You will not have the bearing issues and it is very easy to make them run into the low 13's to high 12's.They also fit better in the car less mods and they are lighter.
 

Dennyboy

Master Mechanic
Jun 26, 2011
387
0
16
Minnesota
mine is a 72 block with ported j heads (not the best but they work fine for now) with a mild cam. When i built it i had the crank grinded 10/10. with the rest of the bottom end stock except for some better rings and bearings. also installed oil restritors when it was at the machine shop and arp rod bolts. has 1.6 roller rockers and cromoly push rods. also a high volume oil pump.

Behind it is a fresh rebuilt by yours truly, th350 with a my homemade shift kit and a 8.5 rear end and 3.42 gears. shes alot of fun and turn heads just ideling through town.
 

dave1978

Apprentice
Aug 6, 2011
72
0
6
If it has #8 heads chances are good it's a 73-76 block which still had the solid mains. Probably would be a good block to start with if you go the small block route. throw on some #5 heads and good pistons and you'll have a good start.(Providing the block itself is not ruined.)
 

ForMySon

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 5, 2011
20
0
0
Tyler, TX
dave1978 said:
If it has #8 heads chances are good it's a 73-76 block which still had the solid mains. Probably would be a good block to start with if you go the small block route. throw on some #5 heads and good pistons and you'll have a good start.(Providing the block itself is not ruined.)
Yeah, the block came out of a 76 Delta 88 Royale or something like that. Its got different year 4 barrel and intake. One of the valve covers has gold paint under blue paint. Can't find a stamped number on front of block, drivers side.

I'm still debating on what to do with the heads. But, so far, thinking about flat pistons, mild cam, intake, HEI upgrade, headers, head work on whatever heads I go with, new oil pan and pump, basic rebuilt kit (not sure what I need yet). I do have an engine stand, so soon it will be on it.

Things are going slow, my jacks all disappeared with my teenage boys, all my tools too. Currently I'm disassembling all the components in the engine compartment; ALL AC parts are coming out; to replace with an AC delete box, currently looking for a new radiator, thinking of 1 core alluminum with clutch fan and 160' thermostat.

Anything anyone can think of to add will be greatly appreciated.
 
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