Help with header install

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Sep 1, 2006
6,687
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Tampa Bay Area
I just got the best thing I ever bought to bleed brakes: a vacuum bleeder pump. It cost me $19.95 on sale at Harbor Freight and did an awesome job of bleeding the brakes in my Frontier.

Oh, and for the future, there is a cheap upgrade for the wheel cylinders if you buy the ones for an S-10 with manual brakes. They are larger and fit the same lines and brackets. Don't worry, I didn't know it until a few days after the last time I replaced mine...:( I have the regular ones in mine now and will just have to remember it for next time.
 

Chillin014

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Nov 9, 2007
422
0
houston/richmond tx
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
I just got the best thing I ever bought to bleed brakes: a vacuum bleeder pump. It cost me $19.95 on sale at Harbor Freight and did an awesome job of bleeding the brakes in my Frontier.

Oh, and for the future, there is a cheap upgrade for the wheel cylinders if you buy the ones for an S-10 with manual brakes. They are larger and fit the same lines and brackets. Don't worry, I didn't know it until a few days after the last time I replaced mine...:( I have the regular ones in mine now and will just have to remember it for next time.

aw upgrade!! damn. oh well it wasnt an expensive part. next time though..

my friend has that vacuum pump but i dont think he understood the concept o f it because he couldnt explain it. but now that i think of it...it probably allows you to leave the bleeder valve open huh and let the vacuum just suck the fluid all the way through and close it when theres no air...damn...we should have used that stupid thing.

my exhaust has the worse resonance in the cabin i've ever experienced, its probably more annoying that driving it open header, or as annoying. i'm guessing moving the mufflers further back in the exhaust will get rid of all the noise? looks like i need to buy some 180 degree bends from summit so i can start finding a way to route it back.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
Yeah, here's how I used it: My pump has a separate cannister for the fluid with two ports on it. One of them should have a short hose connected to it on the inside of the cannister which goes to the bottom of the container. This side is the one you hook to the bleeder screw with a hose. The other terminates at the top of the container. This one goes to the pump. Now you just loosen the bleeder screw and pump the vacuum pump and it will draw the air and fluid through it. When you are done with your last pump, let the gauge go down to like 5 inches of mercury and close the bleeder while the pressure is still going down. This way it will not allow air to backflow into the brakes. It probably won't if you let it go all the way down because the tube is submerged in fluid, but I did it that way to be safe.
 

Chillin014

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Nov 9, 2007
422
0
houston/richmond tx
i hear ya.
well, yesterday I went to the junkyard (it was half off day!!) and I was looking through all the cadillacs and other "gm" cars or whatever. I found some rochester carbs but they alll had more electronic connections than even mine has. I did open them though and feel the difference between carbs that are in decent condition rather than mine which is in poor condition. lol...
so...no luck there but i got plenty of crap for my maxima :eek:
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
0
Tampa Bay Area
Don't forget to look at trucks for a Quadrajet. The non-computer models were used up until the mid 80's while cars got the computers starting around 1980-81. I found mine in a 1979 350-powered Chevy van and it works fine. Just remember to get one from a 350 Chevy or a 1980 Cadillac with a 368 (if non-computer) as you want one with the right angle fuel fitting and the proper air bleed sizing.
 

Chillin014

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Nov 9, 2007
422
0
houston/richmond tx
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
Don't forget to look at trucks for a Quadrajet. The non-computer models were used up until the mid 80's while cars got the computers starting around 1980-81. I found mine in a 1979 350-powered Chevy van and it works fine. Just remember to get one from a 350 Chevy or a 1980 Cadillac with a 368 (if non-computer) as you want one with the right angle fuel fitting and the proper air bleed sizing.
i started to look in the vans but lost motivation...it was really cold.
 

dougfather

Master Mechanic
Jul 11, 2006
286
16
Altoona PA
too many good questions and pictures. I may condense things in the future.
 

mickey-d

Greasemonkey
Feb 10, 2010
246
0
Kissimmee, Florida
The hole at the rear top of the block is direct oil pressure. It is 1/8" pipe thread, like the sender you showed in the pic. The adapter is 1/4 pipe. Your sender should screw right in, if not, get an 1/8" pipe nipple a little longer to get above any manifold restrictions. As for the one or two prong wire connectors, the one wire was for gauge only, th two wire was for gauge and light. The hole in the block where your gauge with adapter came from is just an oil port for maybe an oil cooler line, or a spot for an add-on remote oil filter, like maybe an Oberg Unit. Hope this helps. ...............mickey-d :lol:
 

Regal Beagle

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 10, 2008
22
0
Calgary Canada
mickey-d said:
The hole at the rear top of the block is direct oil pressure. It is 1/8" pipe thread, like the sender you showed in the pic. The adapter is 1/4 pipe. Your sender should screw right in, if not, get an 1/8" pipe nipple a little longer to get above any manifold restrictions. As for the one or two prong wire connectors, the one wire was for gauge only, th two wire was for gauge and light. The hole in the block where your gauge with adapter came from is just an oil port for maybe an oil cooler line, or a spot for an add-on remote oil filter, like maybe an Oberg Unit. Hope this helps. ...............mickey-d :lol:

I would say it's highly likely he has solved his problem since the initial thread was sarted over 2 and a half years ago. LOL!!!
But you never know.

Beagle :rofl:
 

mickey-d

Greasemonkey
Feb 10, 2010
246
0
Kissimmee, Florida
Some had two switches. One for the light, and one for the gauge. If you have the hole behind the intake, use that one if you can. The threads are 1/8" pipe thread on the sender. The adapter you showed went from 1/8" pipe to 1/4" pipe. The top hole in the block was for the "ball" for the clutch cross shaft, the lower hole was for the oil switch you showed in the pic. You can plug that hole, use teflon tape on the threads, or use some different angle fittings to get the sender hooked up. Hope this helps. ..............mickey-d :lol:
 
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