holley 600 bad stumble

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79cutlasssalon442

Master Mechanic
Jan 25, 2012
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Bought a holley 600 off ebay. Couldnt figure out why the idle was at 2100rpm. The secondaries werent closing. :blam: anyway, now that it idles and works. When im driving, or even in park. If i hit the gas pedal anymore than about an 8th of the way down, it stumbles and the car almost stalls. Its worse going down the road. Any ideas?
 
Is this a new carb? What model number? Number is usually stamped on front side of the choke horn, just in case you didn't know.
 
Well the first thing I would do is verify that all ports on the carb that are not being used are plugged off, especially the large one in the back. Then I would spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner around the base plate area to check for vacuum leaks. Also check to make sure the accelerator pump arm is contacting the pump cam correctly. I would then check get it to idle where you want if possible and adjust the mixture screws to highest vacuum, then add an 1/8-1/4 turn out. Check to make sure the choke is operating correctly and not staying closed to any degree. That is where I would start. Hell maybe it needs a rebuild, how is the condition BTW? If you stab the throttle does it "pop" through the carb or exhaust?
 
The first thing you need to do when you purchase a carb new or used is to disassemble it and make sure all the passages are open, all the parts are there, and the throttle plates are functioning properly.

The last carb I bought was an older Holley 650DP. The owner said it had never been used and it looked new.
It for sure had never been used and that was a good thing for the original owner who was clueless about carbs. I found it to be missing the secondary power valve :shock:
No plug no valve- Zip-Nada-Zilch Nothing

From stripped float bowls, to wrong or missing parts, you just never know what you'll find when you examine a carb.

Since you already have it on, check
crotchss said:
Also check to make sure the accelerator pump arm is contacting the pump cam correctly.

Go get a couple Holley Blue metering block and float bowl gaskets. Then open it up and remove the primary power valve.
Shake out what gas you can, then suck on this side a little and see if it holds the small amount of vacuum. If it doesn't it's blown and needs to be replaced.
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Read this and follow the steps http://www.aedperformance.com/tuning-tips.html
DO NOT purchase any rebuild kit that isn't Holley or AED.

If your needle and seat assembly looks like this STOP and make no adjustments!
Go get a Holley brand needle and seat. Use of an aftermarket needle and seat can cause you to strip out the float bowl when trying to get the correct fuel level.
$(KGrHqZ,!qgFF5ClCvC6BRhy!R,WV!~~60_57.JPG
 
No, it doesnt pop through the carb. It just quits. and we had t apart, we adjusted the floats and checked the power valve. That is functioning. Its completely fine held at 2000 rpm going down the road at 60. Just as soon as you jab the gas it quits and comes back. Worse if you put your foot all the way to the floor. That makes it stall
 
Have you looked down the carb to see if the squirter is working correctly?
 
crotchss said:
Have you looked down the carb to see if the squirter is working correctly?
Yeah the squirter works fine. I remember when i put the 750 on it, we had to go bigger a couple sizes in the squirter. Maybe i'll have to do that in this one too.
 
What engine does this sit on? Some specs please.
 
crotchss said:
What engine does this sit on? Some specs please.
Chevy 305. Pretty snotty. not sure on bore or crank, but it has a pretty big cam. Power band is about 2,000-6,000rpm. Weiand street warrior intake. 700r4 transmission. 3.42 gears.
 
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