Hate to tell you this but their is no easy way to tell , like 565 bbchevy said most people use aftermarket stroker kits . I built one back a couple years ago and used a scat system its just easier comes complete and balanced , ready to go . If you really want to confirm if its a 383 or not you can pull a plug a measure cylinder volume with piston at BDC . This is assuming the guy selling you the car understands what your doing ! If he doesn't he is not going to like the idea of you putting fluid down the cylinder and then retrieving to measure , and this is a B CH to do in car especially with headers !
How do I know it's a 383
- Thread starter JAMES L EUBANK
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LOL ya,ll are going to really have him confused looking for that 5th valve cover bolt !
IMO if the seller is going to say it is a 383 then it is up to him to provide receipts for parts and machine shop work or otherwise tear the engine down enough to verify it does have a stroker crankshaft and a 0.030 overbore if not then assume it is whatever the block casting number checks out to be.
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You have gotten the general consciences and your kinda just buying an engine. He is trying to pass it off as a 383 - is his price reflecting that?? If it really matters you can tell an externally balanced 383, and they say you can pull a spark plug and check the stroke measuring BDC to TDC w/ welding rod (I tried w/ no luck). Things you can verify is the block casting # , check the block stamped numbers RB FRT to see if it was decked. You would think a 383 would have some performance heads and intake. If it is a 383 you still don't know if it's a cast/hyper set-up or has forged internals. You really don't even know if it's a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt block. Sounds like your just buying the engine so I take it it's not in the car - I would have to pull the pan if I was buying it !!
Even the block casting number is no indicator as the 010 blocks came in both two and four bolt mains. it gets even nastier if the block is a gen II or a vortec because they are pretty much specific unto themselves for a lot of parts. If the vendor is claiming an .060" overbore then you do not even have a 383, it is likelier closer to either a 385 or a 388. In any event at the very least you need to pull the oil pan and take a peek at the reciprocating assembly to see what's there. If present, the aftermarket components will display markings and id's markedly different than what the factory would be.
No that was me I meant to put 0.030 over for 383, and it would be a 388 CI at 0.060 over but yes assuming aftermarket rotating assembly the parts should be there.
I dont know about the welding rod , but you can cc the cylinder volume just like you do heads and get very accurate results . Its just a royal pain to do it in the car .
If you can get the oil pan off, look for block reliefs for the connecting rods and connecting rod bolts that do not look factory machined. Most blocks will require some relieving on the bottom of the block and the backside of the bores to clear the rods and cap bolts.
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