my rotors was bad but i didnt want to just get the replacement rotors at the suspension shop so i got some drill slotted rotors from summit. now i just need to know how to unstall them if its eazy. otherwise i can go back to the shop and have them install them for me but i would like to save $80 if you guys can help me out
how do you change the front rotors 83 cutty
- Thread starter youngdeezy
- Start date
- Status
EDIT: BAH. Ignore previous version of my reply and all that. I forgot that the rotor is part of the hub and bearing *ss'y as well, and you'd probably have to transfer the wheel studs. 🙁 Not as simple as I thought. Was thinking of something else I guess....
Anyone else want to try! 😀
Anyone else want to try! 😀
umm....... that wont work, g bodys rotors are built into the hub. you will have to take off the wheel, take off the cailper and pad assembly, then there is a cap in the center to get at the bearings that you have to remove, then there is a cotter pin that you need to take out and then a bolt that the cotter pin went through, and then a retainer that looks like a washer and then a bearing guide that hnthreads from the spindle, reverse to install. the above described way is the way it should be and is if you have the dual piston s10 upgrade or similar.
regalman4925 said:
Yeah I realized I was thinking of something else... removed incorrect instructions.
Installation is a bit trickier than just reversing the removal steps. You need to make sure that the bearings are properly packed, the bearing races are installed in the new hub correctly and the bearing preload is set correctly.
I was hoping you wouldn't call me on it, but yeah, that's exactly it. 😛ryanwitski said:
:lol:edit: NM!
with absolutely no intentions of sounding like a dick, maybe you shold spend the 80 bucks and have someone qualified do it. It is a relatively simple job to do, but there are a few things that are easily overlooked by a beginner. If you have a buddy that knows what they're doing, call em over and buy a case of beer and watch so you can do it next time. The risks of not doing a brakejob correctly far outweighs the cost of having someone do it properly. It's one of the systems on the car where winging it and learning as you go can lead to big problems.
just my 2 cents
just my 2 cents
buy the haynes manual for your car. that will give you the pre-load torque for the bearings. you will need new oil seals before you do anything. just remember, keep the bearings clean, and put the wheels on before replacing the dust cap, then holding the top and bottom of the tire, try to wiggle it vertically. zero play means the bearing is too tight. there should be just a hair of play. i also recommend doing new bearings if you don't know how old they are. they are cheap to replace now, not cheap when they burn out.
megaladon6 said:
Umm... Yikes!
Please don't teach a newbie the wrong way to do these things. Anyone who has never done this before has no idea that the new seals must be fully seated before adjuting the preload. Following your instructions could result in a lot of damage, injury or even death.
I'm not over-reacting here, imagine following those steps and not having the seals fully seated!
Not to mention my hair might be a lot thicker than yours. I've never seen a technical manual use a hair as a measurement.
Now having said all of that, yes, those of us with experience know exactly what you mean and what needs to be done up front. All I'm asking is that we experienced types take a look at the experience level of whomever we are instructing before we jump right in.
[/soapbox]
- Status
Similar threads
