Hubs (expensive vs cheap) place of origin?
- Thread starter CDUNIGAN1981
- Start date
- Status
If I ever get to doing the blazer brake swap, I'm probably just going to run the hubs I got at the wrecking yard they spin fine so if they don't make noise...if it ain't broke don't fix it....Got the parts sitting in storage just no time/money to do it...
I ended up using the hubs from my junkyard spindles. So far no noises or bearing growl. When I first got them, I spun them and they seemed to have some resistance. I noticed some of the junkyard hubs you were able to spin them and they kept spinning. Probably a good sign that they were well worn..
I did pack them with grease by removing the sensor plug/ wire and just stuck a zerk fitting on the end of a grease gun and pumped away, replaced the plug and so far so good.
It would be easy enough to make a fixture that holds a grease fitting...or if you want to go with the Riffraff diesel fittings. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-abs-grease-able-block-off-fitting-99-16/
I did pack them with grease by removing the sensor plug/ wire and just stuck a zerk fitting on the end of a grease gun and pumped away, replaced the plug and so far so good.
It would be easy enough to make a fixture that holds a grease fitting...or if you want to go with the Riffraff diesel fittings. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-abs-grease-able-block-off-fitting-99-16/
I shelled out for Timkens and they were made in Ohio. A few years later I sprung for SKF, supposedly top of the line, and when they showed up they were marked, 'Made in Korea'. I will probably run the Timkens on the coupe, as it may see some track time and put the SKFs on the wagon as it will be coddled. These are supposed to be lubed for life...I'm not sure pumping grease into the housings will actually get anything more into the bearings themselves. The sealing tolerances are pretty tight on this style of double roller bearing.
To be clear, the Timkens were from four years ago. I have heard there have been changes in the company, and they may be farming them out now. Sometimes RockAuto will identify country of origin in their product details. Kore3 used to sell exclusively SKFs with their kits. You could give them a call and find out of theirs are US- or Sweden-produced units.
Last edited:
My .02 here. I have done this swap on G Body's and S10 pickups several times. I have also pulled and sold several more pairs of these spindle / hub assemblies. First, I have never gotten a bad hub from the junk yard. Lucky... maybe. I have also just bought new ones for piece of mind, and the fact that I didn't feel like cleaning old rusty parts. These hubs are sealed, and in stock form, have no way to lubricate them. Only (1) time have I ever seen grease inside the hub's housing. It was obvious it was applied to the outer edge of the hub's housing to aid in sealing out water. Some new hubs come with a rather thick o-ring, that most installers throw away. It's thickness, plus the backing plate, make installing the hub retaining bolts a little tougher. Some new hubs do not come with this o-ring, although most new hubs share the same part #513200, regardless of the name on the box. Curious if any of you guys who have sprung for the "premium" brand had the o-ring in the box. In my opinion, the preferred method of installation is to grease the hub's housing, install the o-ring to seal out water, and torque the bolts to 80 ft/lbs. Snip the ABS sensor flush, and torque it's bolt to 13 ft/lbs. Tightening these bolts correctly will help aid in sealing out water. The RiffRaff zerk fitting is nice. It's probably not necessary, but will also aid in keeping water out of the bearing. I will probably buy them for the Salon build I am working on now. To sum this up... bearing quality is probably similar no matter who's name is on the box. Keep water out to prolong the life, and as stated above... you'll hear/feel the bearing failing before it leaves you stranded.
Is the O ring supplied with the hub required?
I don't see any kind of O ring groove for an O ring to sit inside of on the blazer knuckle.
I haven't gotten my brake kit from kore3 yet.
Is it possible the brake dust delete shim is made to have an O ring sit in it?
I'm trying to understand what the deal is with the 'O' ring.
My knuckle doesn't have a place that an 'O' ring would set in.
I want to be sure I'm installing this hub correctly.
Don't sweat it, hoss. It either fits loose and needs the o-ring or it's tight and doesn't. Not the end of the world; I don't even remember that on mine.....
- Status
