I need all of you guys' opinions

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WyoKid said:
im just gitting confused by all the differnt info on the internet, simply want to know whats correct, does the distibutor affect anything when it is turned to a different posistion?

You said it ran fine before the oil change, so the distributor must be in the correct spot.....

<Mike>
 
WyoKid said:
i checked the firing order just a few minutes ago, I know the fireing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 . i have a Chiltons Manual at home that shows me a diagram of it. checked it to my car nothing matches. so i check on the internet, every diagram i check the distibutor is turned to a different position. Which way is correct so i now if my car is set up right and if not how to set it up.

Like what driven said just trace your plug wires and be sure 1 is with 1 and so on....But the reason I think the diagram is different because olds and chevy firing orders are the same but the positioning of the distributor are in different. You might be looking at the wrong diagram, or someone installed the distributor different(my car is in like chevy)....when was the last time the engine was tuned up?
 
DRIVEN said:
You really need a gauge to diagnose what's going on. If you loosened up any of the crud that's built up over the years it's worked it's way into the pan and is likely plugging up your pick-up screen. I'm not saying that's why it's running rough -- that's likely a separate issue. But you really need to verify your oil pressure before you hurt it. Once you know it's got pressure you can chase the driveablity stuff. Get a gauge.

I have to agree, and if it ran fine before the flush and you touched nothing else I would say something you flushed ended up in the pan and is clogging you oil pump screen. I would not attempt to run it until you can verify your oil pressure with a gauge.
 
best way to clean out the sump pick up is to drain the oil, remove the filter, replace the drain plug, pour in about a 3qts of kerosene and let it sit for about 3 days....then drain it all out... for a good while...like two hours... take a good look at the fluid in the drain pan...if its black...you had a lot of sludge build up and a clogged pick up tube......once you're sure the kerosene is all out... add new oil and fill the new filter with oil, and then spin the motor over for 30 seconds with the coil wire off so it will build up pressure...then connect the wire back up and start it....and dont touch the gas pedal till you're ready to start it up.
Good Luck!
 
bill said:
best way to clean out the sump pick up is to drain the oil, remove the filter, replace the drain plug, pour in about a 3qts of kerosene and let it sit for about 3 days....then drain it all out... for a good while...like two hours... take a good look at the fluid in the drain pan...if its black...you had a lot of sludge build up and a clogged pick up tube......once you're sure the kerosene is all out... add new oil and fill the new filter with oil, and then spin the motor over for 30 seconds with the coil wire off so it will build up pressure...then connect the wire back up and start it....and dont touch the gas pedal till you're ready to start it up.
Good Luck!

I'm certain what you said works. I would also remove the pan and replace the sock. On the V6 removing the pan is cake work. Remove flex-plate cover and small section of exhaust.... New sock in the pan 10 bucks and gasket 2 bucks...

12 bucks and 45 Minutes of work > Never hurts.....

<Mike>
 
I think I get the big picture now. You have a lot to verify and seem to have difficulties doing so. You have got a lot of advice from people now start getting some answeres. Oil pr, correct plug wires first and see what you have.
 
The fireing order is all good now.oil pressure is strong..had a buddy come over. The problem is in the timing chain. What does that cost to fix. The motor won't start now either. He also believes that the motor is a 260 v8, even though every thing says it is a 307. Thinking too my self... Can't be a 260. I've bought to many parts for the car as a 307...who in the world would put a Olds 260 in a 442.

Also need a new distributor cap and Accel supercoil.
 
If he thinks it may be a 260 in an 87 442 I'm curious to know how he figured out it was the timing chain that's the problem?
 
The casting number located on the block above the timing chain/water pump area will identify the engine.
260 ci engine casting number is 557751
307 ci engine casting number is 556607
Did your buddy remove the fan shroud, fan, water pump, and timing chain cover to inspect the timing chain? How did you determine the firing order, did you compare it to a diagram? A diagram is fine if you know where the #1 is but a diagram will not tell you where the #1 is. You need to put the #1 piston at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke, the rotor will then be pointing at the #1 terminal on the distributor. But like Mike said "You said it ran fine before the oil change, so the distributor must be in the correct spot.....

How did you check the oil pressure if the engine won't start?
 
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