I need help bad!!!! V6 Power

[patmckinneyracing]

81cutlass,
No one was telling him to save specifically for a chevy. We told him to save up for a v8. Whatever he wants to put in his car is up to him. Were all telling him to either go BOP or chevy v8. Don't start sh** with the whole BOP is better than chevy. We were all avoiding that argument.

 

[supkylesup]

thanks for that link that should help alot
im that kind of guy everyone keeps swaping there engine talkin all this sh*t about the SBS's
well i want my stock engine to be fast lol i dont want to have to do all that work swapping and all that money spent i want little things that will pull as much power out of my little engine that could lol

so thanks for that post

 

[81cutlass]

81cutlass,
No one was telling him to save specifically for a chevy. We told him to save up for a v8. Whatever he wants to put in his car is up to him. Were all telling him to either go BOP or chevy. Don't start sh** with the whole BOP is better than chevy. We were all avoiding that argument.

Baa! Didnt want to start anything. Just kinda threw out SBC as a generic term. Any V8 is what I should have said. Probably wouldn't be defending the V6 if I had a NA motor. Not that my turbo motor is fast but I have enough money into it where I tell myself I have to like it! 😀

 

[patmckinneyracing]

That's completely up to you then. Were just saying that for the money your going to spend trying to get decent power out of your v6, you could spend half of that on a v8 of any kind and get double the power.

If you want to keep a v6 in your car, tear it down and build it to Grand National specs

 

[supkylesup]

understandable nobody is start anything i think i wanna stick with my v6 im too early in the game to be swapin engines and all that this is my first car
thanks for everyone's input

im just set on the fact that
i dont need to dust every car on the road just the slow ones in the fast lane that piss me off lol
i will highly consider the 3.42 rearend
that should help beef up the v6

upon other items gah i need to hit the lottery
but dont we all

 

[81cutlass]

If you dont have access to a big tool box, or a crane and since its your first car id say keep it a V6. An intake can be done in your driveway along with the rear end if you know what your doing and a lot of other stuff. Engine swaps not so much. Chances are if you put an intake on the car will be drivable in 2 days. An engine swap takes weeks if you weekend wrench.

And yeah its 200 for V8 "X" plus $50 here for wiring, $50 there for hoses, $50 there for exhasut, $50 there for whatever. It gets expensive without realizing. Its not the big stuff its all the little stuff that you dont realize.

 

[supkylesup]

well with all this said im deffinetly going to get
3.42 rear-end
dual exhaust
cold air intake
and clean the carb out

glad i came here before i started throwin money away
but like you guys keep sayin save for the v8
ill get the parts that could still be used with a v8 sway
that should put a little more power into my v6 atleast till i get a v8 which will probably be far down the road

right now im waiting on my H/O spoiler to get here thats my most recent buy for it i think im pretty much done with exterior work on the thing although she does need a paint job

so a couple more questions for ya guys

is there a website that i could find the 3.42 rear-end and if i bought one would it just bolt on to what im already working with or would there have to be seperate mods to make it fit

also does anyone know how much a full bodied paint job would cost i wanna go gloss black on it but i dont want a cheap POS Maaco paint job

 

[khan0165]

Well, I'm not an expert, but I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong...

with our G-bodies, you're looking at essentially 2 types of rearends... the 7.5" and the 8.5". The 8.5" came in the heavy Horsepower g-bodies, or "optional versions" like the GN, the SS, and the 442. Both have 10bolt covers, but the shape of the rearend housing is different.

You likely have a 7.5" rearend, without posi-trac. Swapping to a 8.5" rearend will require you to modify your driveshaft and rear suspension. People typically swap to the 8.5" rearend, because it can handle more power. Most often, a stock 8.5" rearend can handle the same horse power as a very mod'd 7.5" rearend.

So, if later on, you plan on swapping to a big-horse-power engine, you may want to invest the money and time now into finding a 8.5" rearend. A 7.5" will be plenty for what you have now, but may not hold up later on with a more powerful engine.

That being said, a 7.5" rearend can handle a mild V8 engine, but not much more. I've heard they start to break past 300HP. Running slicks or drag racing tires, is also a bad idea with the 7.5" rearend.

Long story short... those are your options. Keep your eyes open, lots of folks on this website are selling their rearends, and you can find a good posi-trac for a good price. Never buy a rearend without removing the cover and inspecting the condition of the parts inside. A decent 8.5" rearend can run you into $800 sometimes, even $1200 if it's freshly built. But you'll usually find a stock un-mod'd one for $200-$400. The 7.5" rearends are even cheaper. You could also look at local junkyards or websites like Craigslist, or Kijiji.

 

[patmckinneyracing]

Good luck with the cost of a black paint job. Takes lots of body work and time to get the body straight. Every little dent, scratch, and imperfection will show up in a black paint job. I do my own paint jobs so all i had to do was buy the materials.

Concerning the rear end, we have no idea what your running but I'm willing to guess it's a 7.5 inch rear end non posi. You want to either buy a posi carrier for your axle housing, then the gears themselves.

Go to summitracing.com

Here are the parts you need to do the swap. I highly suggest you take your car to a differential shop to have this done or take out the rear from the car and bring that by itself, this will save you money and labor charges. To swap anything out of the rear end involves pulling the axles from the center chuck and removing the assembly inside. YOU CANNOT do this swap yourself and I can't stress that enough. The differential shop or a performance shop will know exactly what to do and the tools to do it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ETN-19663-010/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-741013/

Another alternative is to find a rear end out of one of the following cars:
-Monte Carlo ss
-El camino ss
-Grand National
-Regal t-type or turbo powered
-olds 442


I bought my rear end from a guy who pulled it out of a 86' monte carlo ss for 200$ complete drum to drum. Already came with the auburn posi and 3.73 gears.

 

[patmckinneyracing]

Concerning the argument against the 7.5 rear end,
Yes the 8.5 is a bigger and better rear end. For some reason though, the 7.5 rear end gets a bad rap. I am making 380hp and 425 to 430lb of torque. I have been ragging on this thing for 5 years now doing burnouts and strip racing. I have not had a single problem with this rearend. The only time these rear ends break, is if you swap them directly in the car or used the stock differential your car came with, beefed up the rest of your drivetrain without considering rebuilding the trans or differential.

This is the problem that most of us learn from. You think by suping up the engine that your going to go a whole lot faster. The problem is that you left out the transmission and differential. So they dump money into a monster motor without rebuilding or fixing anything else. I had my differential rebuilt using the stock ring and pinion of 1986. Guess what happened. The pinion chipped a tooth. So no damage was done and had the ring and pinion replaced with Yukon gears. You have to keep in mind our parts are 25 to 30 years old so reusing parts is kind of a risk.

BTW just for though, most guys now are charging 1000+ for a used 8.5 rear end. IMO they are not worth that much money and your better off just buying an aftermarket ford 9 inch setup for the same price.