I Need Some Brake Help ASAP

[fleming442]

rusty mung.

The mung happens from the 3/4 mixing with 5.

 

[mikester]

The pushrod lengths MAY be different on your Pirate Jack's booster (never even heard of that company). IIRC, most G-body pushrods aren't adjustable. Or if they are, I've never attempted it. But they COULD be different lengths. Do you still have the old booster? If so, measure the depth from the mounting base for the MC to the tip of the push rod and then without disconnecting the brake lines, you may be able to remove the MC and measure the tip depth on the current booster and compare.

Then I'd bleed the lines again! I know that sounds counter-productive, but if air has pocketed somewhere, you may still have some trapped. I bled the piss out of my truck's brake lines, got a steady non-bubbly stream. Good. But there was just a little bit of what I figured was some sponginess. It may have been in my head, though. I came back the next day and did one more flush for peace of mind and the rear right had more bubbles coming out. After that last bleed, the pedal feel was right where it used to be. This was with DOT3/4 fluid though. Weird, because I used Valvoline "DOT 3 & 4" (says so on the bottle, wtf?? Make up your mind, Valvoline. Why not just say DOT 4?) brake fluid for full disclosure. My truck does have ABS system which was properly bled.

Seeing if any spaghetti sticks on the walls here.

I tossed the original booster when I bought the new one. It was years ago. I found Pirate Jacks when I was shopping for brake parts online. Its a company similar to Master Power. They sell brake conversion kits and parts. Theyre in NC.
As far as bleeding the system again, Ive bled it at least 8 times 2 different ways. I'll do it again but I didnt get any air the last few times. I dont even reuse the fluid when I bleed it. Wagner fluid. Non synthetic.

 

[mikester]

The rear brakes are adjusted with the drum installed and should have a light interference when rotating the drum.

Pretty much exactly what I have. Im closing on 65. Ive been working on cars since I was a teenager. Not the first set of drum brakes Ive adjusted but I will say it was a pain in the butt putting them together. LOL

 

[mikester]

The mung happens from the 3/4 mixing with 5.

Nope. Never mixed the two. I put in the DOT 5 when I did the brakes the first time with all new parts. On top of that the car has never seen the road. Its been in the garage all this time. That stuff screwed everything up just being in the system.
If I had steel lines instead of stainless I would have been replacing all of them too instead of flushing them.

 

[fleming442]

Check the reservoir to master cylinder seal. I had one that had an o-ring mangled during manufacturing, and it caused a similar problem. It was sucking air at the master; once it was sealed, it bled fine.

 

[Clarmo]

Try pinching off all the flex hoses then see if you have a good pedal. If you don't, you might have a booster, linkage, air issue. If you do, release the rear flex only and try, if still good, look at the calipers. The calipers piston seals job is to seal (obviously) but also it is supposed to draw the piston back to release the pressure of the pads on the rotors.
I've owned an automotive repair shop for the last 19yrs. Automotive Tech for almost 30. Aftermarket / Rebuilt parts can be frustrating to say the least!

 

[mikester]

Check the reservoir to master cylinder seal. I had one that had an o-ring mangled during manufacturing, and it caused a similar problem. It was sucking air at the master; once it was sealed, it bled fine.

Good idea but this new master has a lid thats tighter than a crabs *ss. Its actually hard to get off. I tried the lid from the old master and it was the same way. When I take the thing off to add fluid the rubber piece is sucked tight to the reservoir.

 

[mikester]

Something I just realized I didnt mention in any of the posts.
This soft pedal is on a car thats not running. Now before anyone says thats the issue, the wagon isnt running either but the pedal in the wagon is higher and firmer. My thinking is when its running its going to feel different because of the booster.
The 81 feels like crap now. What happens when the booster kicks in ? Will the pedal pressure feel better or worse ? And if better, why the difference in the wagon ? I would think they would/should feel close to the same.

 

[fleming442]

Good idea but this new master has a lid thats tighter than a crabs *ss. Its actually hard to get off. I tried the lid from the old master and it was the same way. When I take the thing off to add fluid the rubber piece is sucked tight to the reservoir.

*PLASTIC RESERVOIR TO CAST HOUSING O-RING not the lid

 

[mikester]

*PLASTIC RESERVOIR TO CAST HOUSING O-RING not the lid

Ah, I'll check that when I go out there today. Never thought of that. But wouldnt it leak at the O ring ?