You can use thin beads of 3M weatherstrip adhesive if you want to keep it from popping out of the channels when you close the doors or falling out on it's own. Tight fitting seals into the channel work may not pop out, and that is good, but you don't want to be driving down the road and risk having a piece of weatherstrip come loose and start flapping around. Run without adhesive at your own risk. Just so you know.
Roof rail side seals are pretty straightforward. They have plastic pins on the end pieces that need to be removed. Makes it easier to lineup the new ones as well. The rest of the weatherstrip is held in by the channels.
Make sure to have some popsicle sticks or plastic tuck tools without sharp edges on hand to help tuck the weatherstrip into the channels if needed. Make sure all weatherstrips and corresponding channels/surfaces are clean and dry.
I start with the vertical run on the back side of the window. I tuck the top of the corner in and work my way down the back channel. You'll quickly see how you "roll" the weatherstrip back side into the inside seat of the channel and then tuck the outside part into the outer part of the channel. You can do this with your fingers most likely, but I would wear some nitrile or surgical type gloves to keep your fingernails from potentially cutting the rubber bits.
Once the rear section is tucked in, you can start tucking the roof side of the channel starting with the back corner and working your way forward. Key is getting that back corner square, then everything else should line up well.
Don't put the pins in just yet if you're going to use adhesive. (If not, then put them in) Once the stripping is in place, what I do to put the adhesive on is to start by pulling out the entire rear vertical section to the top rear corner. The tucked in roof section should hold it up to keep it from falling. I apply the adhesive to the rear weatherstrip and reinstall. This way the weatherstrip ends up in the same place. Install the bottom pins and the back side is done. Then I start at the top back corner again and carefully pull out the stripping and start there with adhesive, working my way forward and then installing the pins in the front. Hope that all made sense. Everyone has their way, and this is what I do.
T-top strips....WHOLE nuther story. A lot more painful.
Disclaimer- I've only worked with GM weatherstripping, so I have no experience with aftermarket brands. So I cannot recommend any other brand.
Since you live in a fairly dry environment, and if you're not doing high speed runs, the other option is to run without the adhesive if you can get away with it for now. Or if needed, just a dot of adhesive here and there. This way, you can remove the weatherstrips when you need to for painting, and still have them ready to go and reinstall with adhesive when the painting is completed without having to buy another set. Plus, you'll know how to do it right so you'll minimize scratching up the new paint when putting the seals back in. Study things how they come apart. It's not too difficult if you take your time.
When it comes time for the final install, I recommend using the adhesive, but only a very skinny squiggle bead like the factory did. You don't want to use much adhesive.
Your call on adhesive use.
