If your going to run the C5 setup then you will need to either run a larger rim with the Torque Thrusts or buy different rims. 17" Torque Thrusts won't clear the calipers.
Ideal backspacing for 17x8 with 245/40?
- Thread starter eversmann79
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I'm trying to remember the exact specs of my set-up, hope this helps...
275/40 17's on 17x8's w 0deg offset on the back - couldn't even get a thread started since tire held up on frame, running 1.5" spacers w no rub.
245/45 17's on 17x7's w 0deg offset on the front- running 1.3" spacers w a couple inches of drop (no rub), gonna switch to 1" spacers and drop more
275/40 17's on 17x8's w 0deg offset on the back - couldn't even get a thread started since tire held up on frame, running 1.5" spacers w no rub.
245/45 17's on 17x7's w 0deg offset on the front- running 1.3" spacers w a couple inches of drop (no rub), gonna switch to 1" spacers and drop more
QUOTE:
Re: Ideal backspacing for 17x8 with 245/40?
by GMillion$ on Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:55 pm
I'm trying to remember the exact specs of my set-up, hope this helps...
275/40 17's on 17x8's w 0deg offset on the back - couldn't even get a thread started since tire held up on frame, running 1.5" spacers w no rub.
245/45 17's on 17x7's w 0deg offset on the front- running 1.3" spacers w a couple inches of drop (no rub), gonna switch to 1" spacers and drop more
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so on the front i should run +1.5 off set and on the rear i should run +1.5 off set as well
i dont want to run the spacers
i tow alot of cars with missing wheels cause they come off alot
as far as the torque thrust rims........i was told that these would work???????
can someone help me out with this as i really like these rims and the way they look
Re: Ideal backspacing for 17x8 with 245/40?
by GMillion$ on Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:55 pm
I'm trying to remember the exact specs of my set-up, hope this helps...
275/40 17's on 17x8's w 0deg offset on the back - couldn't even get a thread started since tire held up on frame, running 1.5" spacers w no rub.
245/45 17's on 17x7's w 0deg offset on the front- running 1.3" spacers w a couple inches of drop (no rub), gonna switch to 1" spacers and drop more
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
so on the front i should run +1.5 off set and on the rear i should run +1.5 off set as well
i dont want to run the spacers
i tow alot of cars with missing wheels cause they come off alot
as far as the torque thrust rims........i was told that these would work???????
can someone help me out with this as i really like these rims and the way they look
I run 17x8 and 255/45/17 all four corners. Fronts are good, no rub at all except when at full lock and I hit a bump and it is only a very slight rub.
Out back though I wish I would have went with a 9" wheel and a 275 tire with 4" backspacing, my setup sits too far into the wheel well, I need to get some spacers.
Out back though I wish I would have went with a 9" wheel and a 275 tire with 4" backspacing, my setup sits too far into the wheel well, I need to get some spacers.
lemkerailroad said:
What you want is to order a wheel based on its backspacing. The term offset is purely the distance from the hub mounting face of the wheel to the actual centerline of the wheel. This will change based on the wheel width and backspacing.
Backspacing is the measurement taken from the face of the hub mounting surface to the wheel lip.
Our cars and most older RWD vehicles will take a negative offset wheel. Positive offset wheel are like what you see on modern cars. Corvette, F-body, FWD cars, etc.
Work for what? They will fit a G-body fine as long as you order the correct backspacing, etc. The issue I was talking about earlier is that you can't run the larger C5 13" brakes with a Torque thrust wheel.
The issue is how American Racing designed the wheel itself. One issue is that the caliper will actually hit the inside diameter of the rim. The reason for this is that even though they are 17" in diameter, there is a 1/2" lip on the backside of the rim that reduces down the diameter. Essentially giving you just 16" of clearance instead of the 17" you thought you had.
The other issue is due to interference with the face of the caliper and the backside of the wheel spokes. The spokes start to curve in drastically towards the center of the wheel where they attach to the rim hoop. No amount of grinding on the caliper will clear this.
The solution (albeit temporary in my case) was to use my existing C5 calipers and run the smaller F-body 12" front rotor. This pulls the caliper down and away from the wheel giving the clearance that is needed. But your stuck with the smaller brake rotor size. 🙁
This is about the best picture I have showing the caliper clearance. This is with the 12" brake rotor instead of the C5 13". You can see it's pretty tight even with the 12" rotor setup:
FE3X CLONE said:lemkerailroad said:
What you want is to order a wheel based on its backspacing. The term offset is purely the distance from the hub mounting face of the wheel to the actual centerline of the wheel. This will change based on the wheel width and backspacing.
Backspacing is the measurement taken from the face of the hub mounting surface to the wheel lip.
Our cars and most older RWD vehicles will take a negative offset wheel. Positive offset wheel are like what you see on modern cars. Corvette, F-body, FWD cars, etc.
Work for what? They will fit a G-body fine as long as you order the correct backspacing, etc. The issue I was talking about earlier is that you can't run the larger C5 13" brakes with a Torque thrust wheel.
The issue is how American Racing designed the wheel itself. One issue is that the caliper will actually hit the inside diameter of the rim. The reason for this is that even though they are 17" in diameter, there is a 1/2" lip on the backside of the rim that reduces down the diameter. Essentially giving you just 16" of clearance instead of the 17" you thought you had.
The other issue is due to interference with the face of the caliper and the backside of the wheel spokes. The spokes start to curve in drastically towards the center of the wheel where they attach to the rim hoop. No amount of grinding on the caliper will clear this.
The solution (albeit temporary in my case) was to use my existing C5 calipers and run the smaller F-body 12" front rotor. This pulls the caliper down and away from the wheel giving the clearance that is needed. But your stuck with the smaller brake rotor size. 🙁
This is about the best picture I have showing the caliper clearance. This is with the 12" brake rotor instead of the C5 13". You can see it's pretty tight even with the 12" rotor setup:
this is what i was looking for thanks for a pic and explaining why the rims wont work
now i understand and see why they dont work
time to look for some other rims
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