Inline vs classic tube for us?
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I used the inline tube kit, bought the line clamps. Overall the kit is very nice, the only problem i had was the master cylinder lines...i have an aftermarket MC so the lines wouldn't line up right, tried to cut bend and reflare and found out trying to flare annealed stainless is close to impossible!!! I would recommend the stock prop valve as i ruined 2 of the brass valves because the line fittings pulled the threads! If you need some pics let me know i have several.
Scott
One of the reasons I made my own brake lines out of Cunifer tubing (besides cost) was that I was going to use an aftermarket proportioning valve and knew I would most likely have fitment issues with the lines going to it if I used any kind of prebent kit and stainless while it is very strong and rust resistant it is also very hard to work with.
Here in louisville there are several reputable brake shops....when trying to reflare the stainless lines i had to cut i broke 2 flaring kits....everywhere i called said "nope we dont touch stainless" i then resorted to braided lines seen here that work great!!!!
Thanks for the replies, I'm going with a strange engineering rear axle set up, and will be most likely doing the s10 brake upgrade, keeping stock MC setup, so I don't believe I'll need to custom run any lines? I have no problem using regular lines for a potential later upgrade in brake setup, car won't be seeing snow/salt so you thinking drop the stainless idea then?
Cunifer lines are made of a copper nickel alloy and are rustproof, DOT approved and very flexible and easy to work with especially when it comes to flaring.
My 86' Regal project was the first time using Cunifer and I made every line new for the whole car and I would say it cost less than a $100 for all the line and fittings and still have a lot of both left over, I am sold on this stuff and will be using it from now on for any future projects.
You can also polish these but they will always have a copper tint to them so if that bothers you then you can paint the ones from the master cylinder silver.
My 86' Regal project was the first time using Cunifer and I made every line new for the whole car and I would say it cost less than a $100 for all the line and fittings and still have a lot of both left over, I am sold on this stuff and will be using it from now on for any future projects.
You can also polish these but they will always have a copper tint to them so if that bothers you then you can paint the ones from the master cylinder silver.
Rsp, you think I could handle this since haven't done anything like it so far? I've saved the original stuff for comparison, so maybe that would help... I'd need a line cutter and what else? You have a link as to where to buy? The copper color I bet would look cool anyway. Thx!
lines are a challenge but a very good learning experience takes ALOT of time but in my opinion don't cheap out of tools get a good cutter and flaring kit also i nice bender.
You have the body off your frame if I remember correctly, you will also need a double flaring tool and most of those kits come with a tubing cutter.
When I was making mine I ziptied the new line to the old one after I made each bend so it would look exactly the same as the original and for the master cylinder lines I used a piece of 1-3/4' tubing to make the spiral so it matched the original also.
When I was done they all went in like the originals and because they are flexible it is easier to get the nuts started without a fear of cross threading.
When I was making mine I ziptied the new line to the old one after I made each bend so it would look exactly the same as the original and for the master cylinder lines I used a piece of 1-3/4' tubing to make the spiral so it matched the original also.
When I was done they all went in like the originals and because they are flexible it is easier to get the nuts started without a fear of cross threading.
Those look great- so how did you make the circular bends? I like the zip-tie idea. Also, did you use their lines for fuel as well? Do they sell the proportioning valve as well that attaches to the frame? Sorry for the drill but want to know what I may be getting into before I pull the trigger.
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