Last tweaks were to the shifter hump at the flange where the shifter boot screws onto. The clearance issues were with the large upper bolt that holds the shifter assembly to the steel plate. I had no choice but to cut a piece of metal out where the left side screw goes into.
The steel plate was also making contact with the under side of the flange close to the rear boot screw hole. This only required some light tweaking and did not obstruct the screw.
So to cover the area where the metal was removed and to take up a little slack I used some 1/4" thick EPDM foam rubber (high temp style). I used the shifter boot chrome bezel as a tempate and made a foam gasket. I then attached it to the flange with weather strip adhesive. I punched holes for the 3 boot screws that remain. The one that lost its hole I used an awl and punched a hole in the location of that screw. The screw just screws into the foam to close the hole up.
The final touch was a 3/8" thick steel spacer to center the shifter lever in the hole in the floor and effectively put it back in the stock location. Another final detail is the need to extend the speedometer cable to reach the passenger side speedometer cable fitting on the Super T10. I used a 20" extension. It worked for about 5 minutes and no longer works. It feels like the cable is bound up. I might use a longer one piece speedometer cable. I also found a 32 spline drive shaft yoke that uses the internal clips so I could use my stock drive shaft.
Also
The steel plate was also making contact with the under side of the flange close to the rear boot screw hole. This only required some light tweaking and did not obstruct the screw.
So to cover the area where the metal was removed and to take up a little slack I used some 1/4" thick EPDM foam rubber (high temp style). I used the shifter boot chrome bezel as a tempate and made a foam gasket. I then attached it to the flange with weather strip adhesive. I punched holes for the 3 boot screws that remain. The one that lost its hole I used an awl and punched a hole in the location of that screw. The screw just screws into the foam to close the hole up.
The final touch was a 3/8" thick steel spacer to center the shifter lever in the hole in the floor and effectively put it back in the stock location. Another final detail is the need to extend the speedometer cable to reach the passenger side speedometer cable fitting on the Super T10. I used a 20" extension. It worked for about 5 minutes and no longer works. It feels like the cable is bound up. I might use a longer one piece speedometer cable. I also found a 32 spline drive shaft yoke that uses the internal clips so I could use my stock drive shaft.
Also
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