Interior Paint

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I haven't got to my interior yet (that'll be awhile), but i recently blacked out my euro grilles using the same prep process. I used a 3m flexible sanding sponge cut down, and glued to a paint stick so i could scuff each individual fin, cleaned, cleaned, cleaned some more. Then used the duplicolor adhesion promoter, then SEM trim paint euro jet satin which is intended for exterior apps.

However, I've been stockpiling some color coat and clear to be ready for the interior.

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Thats good stuff. The tech support guy at SEM said its also close in color to their Hot Rod Black and I use that a lot. Its got just the right amount of gloss for under the hood and its a 2K paint.
 
Thats good stuff. The tech support guy at SEM said its also close in color to their Hot Rod Black and I use that a lot. Its got just the right amount of gloss for under the hood and its a 2K paint.
Yeah, i really like it! It's kind of weird how it lays down....looks kinda splotchy at 1st, then it levels out to a super smooth finish, and has just the right amount of gloss!
 
Me personally I didn't like the SEM color coat. I was surprised because of the great reviews but it just didn't cover as well as my duplicolor vinyl and fabric paint. Again prep is key. Clean, gray scotchbright, vinyl and plastic prep, adhesion promoter, then light coats of paint.

Here's what I have with duplicolor. I did another interior 4 years ago with the duplicolor still looks awesome. Also cost half the price of a SEM can. I do like the SEM texture coating though. I'm in the middle of putting everything back together.

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fellas - what about this? wash, clean, scotchbrite the plastic 'til it's ready. spray adhesion promoter, then light, but full cover, coat of 2K primer followed by 2K sealer.

I'm considering this route for my entire interior (already out of the car) because i could then apply whatever color i want from whatever paint supplier i want in whatever sheen i want.

1) i haven't found a SEM color i want (maroon) and 2) SEM is tremendously expensive - i think it's about $65 a quart now
 
I dont know what everyone else will say about this but Im not sure youre going about it the right way. Paint or dyes used on interior plastic or vinyl are made specifically for that. I think it might be more of a chemical bond. I would call the folks at SEM and ask to be sure.
As far as using a 2K primer and sealer, why ? Even light coats might fill in most of the grain on the plastic. Plus now youre going to have more product that could possibly fail down the road. SEM is a bit expensive but so is regular paint. Between the cost of the primer, paint, reducer, and activator Im sure its going to cost more in the end and youre not using a product designed for plastics. I think in the end it would be cheaper just to buy the right stuff.

Im also puzzled about the comment about finding the color maroon. Are you trying to match a stock color ? SEM Color Coat comes in a bunch of colors but the paint supplier can custom match any factory color. Ive had this done this at least 5 times.
 
Sorta along this theme or topic.

What do you use to bring or put color back in sun faded velour parts? The upper door panels on my Aero Coupe need some attention...never tried to paint/dye cloth?
 
HA! Frankly, I'm not sure I'm going about it the right way either - that's why I'm asking for input. I actually have asked a SEM rep at a show a few years back. I didn't get a good explaination. He said the paint forms a 'molecular bond', but if that were the case there would be no need for an adhesion promoter; that would just be a layer between the surface and the substance that is supposed to form a molecular bond. Basically, he couldn't explain to me what was peculiar to SEM, or any, vinyl paint that made it work for vinyl and plastic.

As to color, I'm not trying to match a specific OEM color - i've just been to their site and i've seen cars done with SEM and the ones (only 2) i've seen in maroon were too red.

The reason I'm considering this route at all is because I have pieces that are chalked and brittle. My thought is that the 2K will 'hold' those portions that are flaky - then of course with 2K practically ANY paint can be applied over it...even if i used Rustoleum or some Home Depot brew.

It WILL be tricky getting enough 2K on the flaky parts to sort of patch or seal those areas, provide a base for final color while keeping it light enough not to lose that grain.
 
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