IROC Wagon Project

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sounds like you're making a lot of progress, Scott.. considering how limited your spare time is.
Lookin' good so far..keep up the good work.

I hope I can be back on the road this summer. There's still many things on the checklist to buy yet...So much for a budget build.. :roll:

BTW, I was looking at my old run channels. I just discovered that there is three different sizes of channel. Have you also come to the same conclusion? The channels that run vertically on the vent window frame requires a smaller size compared to the other 2 sides of the same window opening and front door window frames.

So far we need the AS 1336, and AS 1720. The next number/size is either AS 1369...1368. and that's only for the forward channel on the vent window frame.

Believe it or not, there's one more size that I overlooked, but I'm going to reuse the ones I have. They are located in the lower front forward door frame. They are larger in width than the other sizes.
 
Well this is what the inside of the car looks like for now. Not done yet but you get the idea. Like I said previously, it's not difficult work, it's just tedious and down right boring at times. The stuff is easy to work with and very forgiving. My junk came with a roller supplied. I've rebuilt it twice already. A person really needs to be sure the stuff is rolled down to keep it like you wanted it.



Here’s some trivia for you wagon owners. Per the photo below, the small round plug in the upper right top is used for what? It goes all the way through the floor but would not be accessible unless you pulled out the rear sheetmetal floor piece (the piece with the spare tire hatch attached. When I discovered this I had an epiphany moment whereas I wanted to make the hole larger, in fact, large enough to get the fuel pump out if need be. Then I thought, why, so the carpet and inside of the car can smell like Gas/E85? Nah, I'll just pull the tank down if that happens. I don't know if any of you guys have pulled that large rear sheet metal piece out of your cars but it ain't no picnic. Matter of fact, it's a royal pain in the arse. Would still like to know what the original thought/usage for the little plug hole was though.
:wtf:


These were in the rear along the roof line. I assume they hold up the headliner but don’t know that for certain. Don’t be afraid to chime in verifying or challenging the usage. I've read in numerous places that the headliner clips on these cars is next to impossible to get out in one piece. I can bare witness to that statement. Just hope they're still available in some form.



Here’s another view.



Here’s a view along the upper driver side. There’s a couple different types of clips. Again, I assume the plastic pieces are to hold up the headliner but I have no idea what the little spring steel clips do, and there are several of them.



Another photo of the side plastic clip/retainer.



Another photo of the spring steel clip.



This is one of the pieces I’m looking for. Not sure why I am, but I am. This is on the driver (left) side and holds the harness that feeds the rear of the car. This would be under the wheelhouse trim, this photo is the fastener open



This is what it looks like closed. Had it off once without breaking the spike but the second time was too much. :roll:



This piece is also on the driver side. I have no idea what it does but it may have something to do with the trim installation. It's also located under the wheelhouse trim. Where my dirty finger is pointing, there’s supposed to be a widget/spike that secures it in a hole. Was not lucky with this piece at all.



Here’s another photo from a different angle.



Scott, ... :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :wink:
 
Eeek, all those clips make never want to take my interior out. I'd be too afraid it wouldn't go back in.
 
Hi Scott,
If I'm right the first clip that you've shown in the photos is a headliner retainer clip. Is there any kind of trim/moldings that go around the outer edge of the headliner, to hide the edge of the headliner? It looks to me like that clip serves 2 functions-to hold up the edge of the headliner, and to mount a molding around the edge of the headliner. I replaced the headliner on my '84 Monte last year, and some of the retainer clips looked very similiar to that. One suggestion that I have, is that if you're looking for some of that stuff, check out some suppliers that deal in G body parts for other divisions. When I was replacing my headliner last year, I was also installing a power seat track, and I needed a lower seat recliner cover for the power seat switch, which I got from Dennis Kirban Buick parts, and I was able to get a kit with new headliner retainer clips at the same time. I realize that this may not work for you, since you're working on a wagon, but its a thought anyway.
As for the other 2 styles of clips that you've pictured, I've seen that style of clip before. I'm not sure if they're specific to wagons only, or if they might be found in a sedan. There is a guy up here with a business called "The Clip Man", and he carries a wide variety of odd and unusual clips and fasteners, and he travels to most of the swap meets in southern Ontario. I don't know if there is a similiar supplier in your area. Another idea for you-I know that years ago (around here anyway), GM used to have what they called a "Standard Stock" catalog. Its a reference book for all different kinds of GM clips, fasteners, wiring connectors, and different widgets that they've used over the years. If you know of any competant older GM parts people in your area, then you might want to check with them, to see if they've heard of this catalog, or better yet if they have a copy available for you to peruse. Failing that, you may be down to hitting the local junkyards, or checking through classifieds for someone who is parting out a similiar car. I hope this is helpful. Good luck.
Jeff
 
Scott,
The first clip, as Jeff pointed out, is in fact the rear headliner clip. It takes 5-6 across the rear trim moulding covering the hatch hinge bolts. They are nearly impossible to remove in one piece. If you do, usually the small locking tang breaks off.
The other U-shaped plastic clips hold the sides of the headliner trim. The metal spring clips actually hold up the headliner board..
I also have to refresh my memory. Most clips got pulled and placed in plastic bags with no indication of where they're from. I just assumed I'd remember.. :? yeah right.
That last black plastic piece is a guide for holding the wiring to the body. I found mine in the cargo area. It's usually clips on over the wheelhouse and inner wall where the the two panels converge.

As for the white plastic clip that holds the harness on the left side..I've never come across that one before.
The cargo floor removal is a total b*tch to remove. It almost seems as thought the car was built around it. I have had it out, and should have left it, but put it back in. I left it in when I painted the car. I didn't feel like removing it again...what a pain in the *ss. It's heavy and awkward to handle. I will also have to encounter it again soon..ugh!... 'cause I also plan to do the Fatmat sound deadening treatment.

About the hole that goes thru the body under the cargo floor, I don't recall seeing it. Not saying that it isn't there, but I guess I was focused elsewhere at the time.

Man, it's looking great so far. I will have to tap your brain again about the run channels. I've tried measuring the old pieces,
but have come up with a variety of dimensions. It's a little confusing to say the least.
But I won't bug you about that now. You're obviously on a mission to accomplish as much as you can.
Keep up the good work. 🙂
 
Gentlemen,

As always, I appreciate the information and your feedback. I’m way past thinking I know everything and even further past not wanting to ask someone. There was a time when I wouldn’t have asked anyone for anything. Of course, that was before the grey matter was present.

That said, Jeff, I’m very familiar with the Standard Parts Catalog, thanks for bringing that up. It’s not the same as it once was as it’s now online in the EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog). I have the best of the best factory parts guy I use in Phoenix for my corporate stuff as well as my own junk. I also have access to the EPC so if you guys need a pdf breakdown, essentially what we call a component view (F**d calls it an exploded view and rightly so) I’ll be too happy to send you what you need along with the parts number detail for the specific view. Least I can do for all the help you guys have given me. I can post some of the stuff but it takes more time changing the pdf into a jpeg etc.

It was only 108 at my place Sunday so I didn’t get a lot accomplished. One things for certain, it’ll be there waiting for me when I get back! No one is Overhaulin my junk.

I figured I’d ask Kevin and Tim, maybe Jose’ to keep their eyes peeled for the obscure clips and either go to GM or the aftermarket for the headliner plastic clips. The spring steel clips are perfect and I don’t plan on taking them out, I’ll just work around them. If they’re available from GM or in dealer inventory anywhere, they’re mine.

As far as the Panel Assembly - Rear Luggage (EPC -GM nomenclature) is concerned, this is one of the most difficult pieces to install without scratching the crap out of the rear tailgate jam. I'm not installing this piece untill I'm absolutly certain nothing else needs to go in. It's too large to do with one person, you kinda gotta roll the thing without bending it to even get it in the allocated space, then you have to chase it around the back until it decides to lay down right. Kinda like the big boned (fat girl) in high school and a moped, fun to ride but you don't want anybody to see you when you do.

On another subject, PM me your address Jack and I’ll send you one of my GM OEM run channels, I’ll even include a return FedEx label for return when you’re done with it. Take your time, measure, make a jig, whatever you need to square your stuff up. Sounds like maybe you have a little more time to fool with it than I do. It’s gonna be a while before I’m hanging glass.

In the interim, while I’m here in Las Vegas holed up in my hotel room, I think I’ll go on line and raid the EPC for clip information.

Thanks everyone,

Regards to all, … :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :wink:
 
Thanks very much for the offer of the info Scott. I may just take you up on that. Sounds like you've got things well in hand. Please keep the updates coming. Hope everything goes well for you.
 
Well I didn't get as much done as I wanted to but I did get some stuff done. Considering it was 107F all day on Saturday, I guess that counts for something. For the first time in two years, I closed all the doors and cranked up the AC. Got it down to a comfortable 80F by the time I was done for the day. I'm sure the Blonde will ask why the electric meter had a stroke. Some things just can't be helped.

Having the doors shut is why these photos are a little dark, even with a flash, still not as good as natural light. Never said I was a photographer.

Thought I’d share what I’ve learned thus far for those of you that may be contemplating installation of insulation whether sound deadening or heat resistant. Pretty sure the fundamentals are the same.

Tools you’re gonna need for the basics are as follows:

Sharp Knife - In My Opinion, you’re gonna want a couple of those disposable type knives that when the tip gets dull you break it off and start fresh. Usually they throw one in the kit. I went to Home Depot and bought the metal version with replaceable blade inserts because I went through two of the plastic knives already. Although I didn’t take a specific photo of the knife I’m talking about, you can see an orange and a blue example in the photo below.
Why is this important, why not use a Stanley (carpet) knife? Well for one reason the edge is gonna get dull at the same rate and the blades are more expensive and harder to change out. Secondly, regardless of the quality of knife you use, it’s still gonna get caked with the sticky insulation material. Use the Stanley type knife to cut your pieces on the floor. Use the plastic knife to make all your trim cuts in the car.




Roller - The roller is what you use to make a good adhesion of the insulation to the sheet metal you’re sticking it to. A couple different sizes would work better but if you only have one, the inch to two inch size is the most flexible size to get.

Awl - You need an awl to poke through the holes as well as finesse the slots you cut with a knife.

Grease Pencil - A grease pencil allows you to temporarily mark a hole or write a note that can later be wiped off with a rag. Your memory isn’t as good as you think it is.

Dull Scrapers - I found scrapers of different sizes work the best for forcing the conformity of the insulation to the surface you’re applying it to. Needs to be dull or taped edge or you’ll cut right through the stuff.

Screwdriver - Screw Drivers, medium and small actually work the best for jamming the insulation into tight small spaces. Up to you how anal you want to be but I only want to hear the motor revving.



Keep some of the backing paper to stick your trimmings to. I only save the largest pieces but you're gonna use these at some point to fill some little obscure void.



The stuff I use to cut the pieces so they’re more manageable is a drywall T-Square, a carpenter square, pencil, measuring tape and a Stanley knife. Roll the stuff out on the floor, paper side up and make your cuts. Unless you have two or more people, working with this stuff in big pieces is not recommended. It sticks to the first thing it touches, besides that, who cares if it’s in smaller pieces, NOBODY WILL EVER SEE IT.



Yes, I attached the insulation right to the backside of the rear quarter panel. I expect this will make the car much quieter. I plan to do the spare tire lid once I get that arbitros back in the car.





One more day and I should have all I can do on the insulation done. Still need to do some welding on the floor so that's gonna have to wait for a later date, at least until the exhaust is installed.

Scott, ... :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :roll:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor