IROC Wagon Project

[ssbrewskyaz]

Thanks tc,

This is definitely Arizona Chamber of Commerce weather right now. All things considered, probably wouldn't be around now if it weren't for the blonde. ...

Scott, ...

 

[Chopper]

You do great work Scott. You have done other restorations so what has been your favorite and do you have some pics of past work? Always enjoy your updates.

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

Well it would seem that last weekends rebuilding of the seat tracks was a waste of time. Got out to the shop this Saturday morning and was sitting there pondering when I noticed the seat tracks still mounted to the seats I trial fitted in the car a couple of months ago. How can this be, I just spent last Saturday rebuilding a set of adjusters I thought were the pieces I was using. Turns out, they were the pair that came with the purchase of the seats. Not that this is any news flash, Camaro adjusters don't work on stock G-Body mounts. Well then, I have a nice pair to sell when I start selling off the left overs.



Chances are you're probably not going to totally disassemble your seat adjusters to paint them but I did. Be that as it may, I thought I'd share a couple of my make it easier tools with the group. This is my gadget for painting small springs. It's just a couple of threaded rods with nuts through pieces of shelving angle with lots of holes. In my opinion, the only good way to paint a spring is with it in it's loaded / tensioned mode other wise you just paint the surface of the relaxed coiled. As soon as you put tension on it, all the places that weren't painted show. The idea of the threaded rod is so you can adjust for different lengths of springs. I have a larger version of this also. The trick is don't be in a hurry, stretch the springs out and paint. Make sure to cover front back and sides. Leave them stretched out to dry for at least forty-eight hours. This is the way they're going to be on the car so what you see is what you get.



So, I probably need to set the record straight on the choice of colors for my seat springs. Honestly, the new OE springs come the color of a coated spring, usually medium to dark gray. The manufacturer then sprays a blob of color on the end of the spring to identify the application. These colors are referenced in the parts catalog. However, since this isn't a numbers matching car where it really matters, and the fact I glass beaded all the springs raw, I needed to paint them so I just painted them the color the parts catalog references. Yes, they should be a gray color with a blob of yellow or a blob or red. Mine are all red and all yellow. The yellow springs are for the adjuster levers, the red springs connect one adjuster to the other side under the seat.



I paint small parts in a little paint booth I made specifically for small parts. This used to be some kind of medical appliance but I saw right through it's disguise. This giddyup has a turntable for larger parts and also has a 7/16 threaded rod running though it to hang parts from. It has an updraft fan that sucks the fumes and paint out into and through a cheap filter I change once in a while. I use "S" hooks made from wire coat hangers. The flood lights give the metal a good painting temperature and helps the paint flash over. Once the parts are painted, I take them outside and hang them on my drying tree.



This is my high dollar curing oven (drying tree). I carry the parts from the paint booth to the tree using the hooks and hang them essentially the same way with the same hooks. In my opinion, Natural Sunlight is the best drying lamp available. Depending on the circumstances, I leave parts hanging the entire week I'm gone and take them in when I return. A couple of days they're dry, if it rains no biggy.





So, what did we learn today; Make sure you're working on the right parts.

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

 

[clean8485]

As usual, nice work Scott. You've answered one question for me-I have a pair of seats here from an '89 Trans Am GTA, with the seat tracks on them, and I was wondering if the F body seat tracks would fit on the G body mounts. Now I know. I like your painting tools. Your climate for parts drying is a bit better where you are than it is around here.

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

Been pretty lame lately. I thought I would get a bunch done over the holidays but I spent most of the time cleaning and organizing my shop. Figured I could save the therapy (working on the car) for when I need it when I'm back to work. I have worked on it a little though but it's basically a bunch of mundane crap. had a couple holes in the floor from previous accessories that I needed to weld up. Ended up making a mess because I didn't realize I'd run out of gas on my welder. I just assumed I really sucked on that particular day. Turns out, the gas is gone and I'm trying to weld without it basically turning little holes into bigger holes.

It's difficult enough getting the settings right to weld sheet metal, throw in I don't know what I'm doing and, well, let's just say I took years of life off my grinder. I can't make it any prettier so I'm going to break down and use some gorilla hair or filler to pretty it up. The top part is under the console and the bottom part is under the car in the tunnel. If it weren't for me bitchin about it, nobody would even know it's there.

On a more positive note, I did get some pistons finally. These are 12.5 to 1 slugs, combined with the milled deck surface and combustion chamber size, should end up at 13.5 to 1 or slightly higher. Shouldn't be a problem at all on E85 fuel. Since the motor is a high rever, the pistons are bronze bushed with floating wrist pins on the small end, held together with spiral-lock wrist pin retainers. These are just a couple of items to reduce friction in the motor. 302's are known for their high rev capability, this mouse may be somewhat restricted due to the Tuned Port Induction system but the throttle response will not be.

From the photos you can see the difference in the piston dome from a flat top piston with valve reliefs (eyebrows) typically 10 to 1 compression ratio depending on the cylinder head and deck height. Notice that even my flat top pistons from a long ago build still have floating pins. Less friction and drag, things tend to work better. Yes, it costs more but surprisingly, not that much more. The pistons are a little dingy because they've been cryogenically processed. What this means is that they've been subjected to some ridiculous negative temperature which rearranges equally all the molecules. I'm not a student of the process but I'm a student of the results.







:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :wink: Scott, ...

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

Well I’m to the point I’m forcing myself to do the mundane tasks I need to do on the car before I can really get after the interior. Last weekend was perfect outside so I drug out the sand blast pot and introduced it to the wagon load floor. It’s been a job I’ve been putting off for six months. Blasted everything except for the bottom of the spare tire compartment door. Couple of reasons; one, I wanted to leave a subtle reminder of the s**t brindle brown color it was when I acquired the car and two, I doubt one can find the jacking instructions etc..

That said, I blasted it all then primed with self-etching primer. Didn’t spend any time on the rough areas being that it’s all going to be covered up with a insulation backed carpet mat. I used Rustoleum Medium Taupe to paint the think. I didn’t paint all the little pieces around the edges that screw on to the main load floor. These will need to be painted whatever color I end up selecting for the interior painted surfaces.

Speaking of which, that’s an entire separate dilemma. There are so many colors to choose from. Unfortunately, the color on the cap or in the catalog doesn’t necessarily represent what the color will look like when it’s sprayed on my parts. If anyone has light colored interior they did themselves i.e. (tan, beige, sand, etc.), I’d appreciate if you’d shoot me a photo with the color name and manufacturer (SEM, Duplicolor, etc). [email protected]

Just a little welding left to do before I can finish the insulation, that’s another job I’m not fond of. I get it, I need it, it’s worth it and it’s a lot of work all covered up by carpet. I guess that’s the point, to be not seen and not heard. I ran out of Argon so I have to postpone finish welding for another day. My finish welding isn't really finish welding but that's what I'm calling it.

So the next thing I’m looking for is someone in the Phoenix market that can gently remove the previous dye/paint or whatever the last guy used. Either needs to be walnut shells or maybe even plastic beads at low pressure. Can’t really be a media that’s too aggressive. Normally I’d just go over top of the stuff but at the rate it’s flaked off, pretty sure that ain’t gonna work. Apparently the guy wasn’t familiar with adhesion promoter and therefore I have a good example of how not to dye your interior parts. The wagon rear side panels must be two miles long.

Won’t get a lot done this Saturday, Barrett-Jackson is in town so we’ll head out to the Pavilions Rock & Roll McDonalds to see the massive car show gathering they have every year. Take my camera and maybe score a couple different ideas. I’ve had so many of my ideas snagged over the years it’s about time to start snaggin some back for this car.

Here's the old color and the Rustoleum Medium Taupe. Doesn't look bad but I think it's too dark for all the panels.



Here's those labels I was talking about.



Here's all those pesky little pieces you may or may not be able to see. These screw to the load floor and is essentially what the rear side trim panels slide into. Once the carpet is in, I'm sure they'll disappear.



These are the pieces that attach to the top of the tailgate and secure the trim panel. Notice the printed photos, these bridge the gap between when I took the car apart and missing brain cells.



Was gonna reuse the original insulation under the load floor but then I realized the error of my ways. Who needs it, if I was gonna do that I'd just double up the Rattle Trap.

 

[Longroof79]

Scott.,
I know what you mean about all the small pieces, etc. I see you also have the GP duct work in place. I love the diamond shaped hole thru the duct work for the speedo cable.

Is the Fatmat primarily a sound deadener, and an insulator as well? It's on my to-do list.

 

[motorheadmike]

That medical equipment cabinet is most likely from a cleanroom, I've done installations where similar tools were used for handling and assembly chemotherapy pharmaceuticals.

I couldn't stomach the idea of putting that massive floor cover back in, so I made a new hatch cover for just the spare tire well (it has much better accessibility than the stock hatch hole - I really should post photos in my build thread)... but, then again I am not too shy to cut it up.

As for your engine plan I have a sneaking suspicion that you will end up very disappointed using the long runner TPI intake with a proper 302 (4" bore, 3" stroke) which will want a short runner intake in order to rev like it should. I know you are looking to go period correct with the build, but you may want to consider something like Stealth Ram, Ram Jet, Mini Ram, or Super Ram.

 

[Longroof79]

Mike,
If you could post some pics of what you did with your spare tire hatch cover, that would be cool.
My friend who has a Cutlass Cruiser wagon has a corroded cargo floor(that needs to be replaced) and he's considering redoing the floor in wood, much like it's done in a custom pickup bed.

That rear floor is a massive piece. It's awkward and difficult to handle.

 

[motorheadmike]

Mike,
If you could post some pics of what you did with your spare tire hatch cover, that would be cool.
.

Sure, I'll make a point of it. Wood would have been cool...