IROC Wagon Project
- Thread starter ssbrewskyaz
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That's a riot...
Your opinion is always welcome, your sarcasm is not. Don't even give me crap about the stuff I use on my build or for the reason I use it. It amounts to going to a car show and disin someones car because it isn't how you would have built it. ALL of the crap is petroleum based at some level. Millions of people followed Hitler too. ...
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So here we are at the interior. No, the engine isn’t in nor is the front clip on the car but this is one of the biggest projects I have to do on this car so now’s a good time.
As previously stated, a lot of my interior parts have a bad case of Leprosy. That presents a problem because I can’t start refinishing parts until I strip the current finish off. Sent a couple of inquires out to some local strippers that use corn cobs and walnut shells but haven’t heard a peep.
That’s scary for a couple of reasons and irritating for a third. One, possibly they’re really busy and therefore the price will go up. Two, maybe they don’t want to or can’t adequately strip plastic. And the third being, they just don’t return calls and/or eMail. For whatever the reason, some of these parts are on hold until I can get them stripped.
Leprosy Parts - This is what happens if you don’t use adhesion Promoter.
Recoloring an interior correctly is not for the faint of heart. There are a lot of pieces involved. Before you read the rest of this post, make a list and then compare. OK, just for clarification, I’m only talking about pieces you will need to dye or paint. I’m not talking about the Headliner, Carpet, Seat Upholstery or the Sun Visors. Following is what I’m talking about.
Front Door Panels
Rear Door Panels (Check out that stylish Shag Carpeting. IMO the 80’s were weird)
Load Floor Extensions - These are the pieces that attach to the load floor and hold the Cargo Area interior trim panels in at the bottom at the carpet.
Rear Seat Base - Sides, Back and Hinges
Rear Cargo Compartment Upper Attachment Reveal Molding and Headliner Divider Escutcheon - (Separates the Front and Rear Headliner)
Oh, by the way, there's all of this stuff too. - Didn't feel like unwrapping my dash but that has to be included as well)
Like I alluded to earlier, this project is monumental to do right and not for the faint of heart.
Here's why it took so much to Sound Deadener to do my car, because I did my entire car. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
A person just needs to be persistent. Here I have my four NOS Headlight Buckets and Stainless Headlight Trim Rings. Will try to take my core support in for Powder Coating next week if all goes well
There will probably be those that think I'm a little anal on this stuff. There may be some that even say why would you? Surely these cars will never be worth anything so why go through the trouble? It's more of a challenge to build a car to production standards than it is to build it to creative license standards. Either way, a lot of the hardware, bolts and U-Nuts were originally blue when these cars were built. This helped the plant identify Metric from English until the lines weren't blurry any longer. Oh yeah, beyond the correct color, the hardware head markings match from side to side.
The reality is if you strip the fasteners of the coating to make them nice again, some other coating has to be used or they'll eventually rust (even in Arizona). My point is, if you're gonna paint the stuff any way, you might as well paint it the correct color or close to it.
What, you just scrub the stuff and reuse it? Really?
Inner Wheel Well Fender Washers - It all has to be done eventually. I finish it and put the stuff on baking pans with white towels, then slide the pan into these baking racks I bought. When I'm ready for the piece(s), I just slide the pan out and the hardware / component is ready to go.
This is the hardware for the Aluminum Core Support. Notice the top row are all EL's and the bottom row are all AF 2's. :wink:
These are the U-Nuts for the above hardware. They're supposed to be a weird green color. I suspect the green coating was something that didn't react with aluminum, just guessing though. Guess what, they're gonna be the shade of green etching primer is. Even I have a line in the sand.
Well I'm afraid, that's about all I could stand for one day. I think the point to be made is regardless of how small the project you work on, and even if you're not going to be reassembling the stuff for a month or a year, there's something to be said for "A", working on the car and "B", having parts done and ready to go when you need them. ...
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :wink:
As previously stated, a lot of my interior parts have a bad case of Leprosy. That presents a problem because I can’t start refinishing parts until I strip the current finish off. Sent a couple of inquires out to some local strippers that use corn cobs and walnut shells but haven’t heard a peep.
That’s scary for a couple of reasons and irritating for a third. One, possibly they’re really busy and therefore the price will go up. Two, maybe they don’t want to or can’t adequately strip plastic. And the third being, they just don’t return calls and/or eMail. For whatever the reason, some of these parts are on hold until I can get them stripped.
Leprosy Parts - This is what happens if you don’t use adhesion Promoter.
Recoloring an interior correctly is not for the faint of heart. There are a lot of pieces involved. Before you read the rest of this post, make a list and then compare. OK, just for clarification, I’m only talking about pieces you will need to dye or paint. I’m not talking about the Headliner, Carpet, Seat Upholstery or the Sun Visors. Following is what I’m talking about.
Front Door Panels
Rear Door Panels (Check out that stylish Shag Carpeting. IMO the 80’s were weird)
Load Floor Extensions - These are the pieces that attach to the load floor and hold the Cargo Area interior trim panels in at the bottom at the carpet.
Rear Seat Base - Sides, Back and Hinges
Rear Cargo Compartment Upper Attachment Reveal Molding and Headliner Divider Escutcheon - (Separates the Front and Rear Headliner)
Oh, by the way, there's all of this stuff too. - Didn't feel like unwrapping my dash but that has to be included as well)
Like I alluded to earlier, this project is monumental to do right and not for the faint of heart.
Here's why it took so much to Sound Deadener to do my car, because I did my entire car. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
A person just needs to be persistent. Here I have my four NOS Headlight Buckets and Stainless Headlight Trim Rings. Will try to take my core support in for Powder Coating next week if all goes well
There will probably be those that think I'm a little anal on this stuff. There may be some that even say why would you? Surely these cars will never be worth anything so why go through the trouble? It's more of a challenge to build a car to production standards than it is to build it to creative license standards. Either way, a lot of the hardware, bolts and U-Nuts were originally blue when these cars were built. This helped the plant identify Metric from English until the lines weren't blurry any longer. Oh yeah, beyond the correct color, the hardware head markings match from side to side.
The reality is if you strip the fasteners of the coating to make them nice again, some other coating has to be used or they'll eventually rust (even in Arizona). My point is, if you're gonna paint the stuff any way, you might as well paint it the correct color or close to it.
What, you just scrub the stuff and reuse it? Really?
Inner Wheel Well Fender Washers - It all has to be done eventually. I finish it and put the stuff on baking pans with white towels, then slide the pan into these baking racks I bought. When I'm ready for the piece(s), I just slide the pan out and the hardware / component is ready to go.
This is the hardware for the Aluminum Core Support. Notice the top row are all EL's and the bottom row are all AF 2's. :wink:
These are the U-Nuts for the above hardware. They're supposed to be a weird green color. I suspect the green coating was something that didn't react with aluminum, just guessing though. Guess what, they're gonna be the shade of green etching primer is. Even I have a line in the sand.
Well I'm afraid, that's about all I could stand for one day. I think the point to be made is regardless of how small the project you work on, and even if you're not going to be reassembling the stuff for a month or a year, there's something to be said for "A", working on the car and "B", having parts done and ready to go when you need them. ...
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :wink:
As you can see Scott likes to cut a lot of corners on his projects. It's obvious he knows next to nothing as to what he is doing... :wink:
He knows he'll never see the money he has put into this car. But then, driving this car down the road, it will be perfect, even down to the places that can't be seen.
I would love the indoor space to work on a jigsaw puzzle of this scale! The backing racks are a brilliant idea.
I would love the indoor space to work on a jigsaw puzzle of this scale! The backing racks are a brilliant idea.
Scott,
as always, I commend you on your attention to detail. I've cut corners here and there. The fact of the matter is that I'd like to be able to drive and enjoy my car before I'm too old to do so.
This was not meant to be a razz to you, but relating my own situation. You just never know how many years you have left. :arrow: :|
as always, I commend you on your attention to detail. I've cut corners here and there. The fact of the matter is that I'd like to be able to drive and enjoy my car before I'm too old to do so.
This was not meant to be a razz to you, but relating my own situation. You just never know how many years you have left. :arrow: :|
ssbrewskyaz said:Your opinion is always welcome, your sarcasm is not. Don't even give me crap about the stuff I use on my build or for the reason I use it. It amounts to going to a car show and disin someones car because it isn't how you would have built it. ALL of the crap is petroleum based at some level. Millions of people followed Hitler too. ...
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow:
I am not entirely sure how Hitler and sound deadener are related? But sure, okay, whatever.
My comments were directed at the use of asphalt vs. butyl vs. redneck sound deadener solutions, and why cheapening out on it wasn't wise. In fact, it had nothing to do with your choices (which were at one time on my short list of vendors) but rather my own experiences (despite a great deal of research prior) and failures.
Originally I bought Thermo-coustic sound deadener from Eastwood, as it was advertised as a butyl-based product, yet to my surprise the "comments" section (http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermo ... nt_reviews) showed that it was melting and puddling (and some asphalt-based products even off-gas) at around 90*F. Consequently I went on a search for a true pure-butyl product that I could use in high heat areas (near exhaust) and found the GT Mat Onyx product line.
I have used both products in my car, but only one is near unshielded radiant exhaust heat.
To that end, I challenged your feelings on a "guarantee" placed on a potentially substandard product; what good does that guarantee do you (or anyone else) when you have 100-200 sq/ft of sound deadener melting, oozing and/or off-gassing all over the inside of your car? Even if you can successfully claim that warranty you are still "stuck" (pun fully intended - there's that sarcasm acting up again) with a ruined interior and a new box full of guaranteed fail, right? I suppose you could litigate for damages... and that'll be fun.
It was never my intent to sh*t all over your build, but rather to educate those who were inquiring about how to accomplish the same thing; and if you took that personally (maybe because you had begun second guessing your own choices, fearing the potential consequences) that is a personal problem.
This is an outstanding build and I wish you nothing but success with it.
I have thick skin from being an account manager for twenty-five years but some times it isn't thick enough. And yes, I will litigate if it craps on my interior. Not afraid to stand up to people, big industry NOT excluded. Been there and have the T-Shirt, True story.
Everyone has an opinion, and a person is off base for criticizing a person for his or her opinion. The problem is, it's just an opinion and it does matter where a person voices that opinion. So I'll relate a little story for what it's worth;
When a person builds cars and more specifically, high end cars then takes them to a show, everybody is an expert (not really). (I'm talking LS6, COPO, Cars and etc. - This Malibu is a high cost car but not a high end car). In the same vein, after building numerous cars, when that person goes to a car show, they're bound to see things they don't like, things that are incorrect or things they would have done differently. The advice I offer is, Let It Go. Every persons hot rod is potentially their world. When I look at a car, I may think it, it might even really bug me, but unless the owner asks my opinion, I never go up to a guy and say; hey buddy, you have the wrong fasteners on this and that color is the wrong shade, LS6 cars never had AC and you have the wrong pulleys on the engine. The trim tag says it's a white car but clearly it's red. Again, Let it Go.
I'm perfectly content with the choices I've made. I don't need to run out and try every new thing that pops up on the market. Butyl rubber is synthetic based, still used for roofing and still off gases. Yes, it's a different smell but it's still a smell. I never get agitated when someone asks a question or makes a suggestion, I'm not agitated by the comments. I just don't care for people pushing their agenda at the expense of my build space, no more, no less.
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow:
:idea: Enough said, back to building cars. :idea: ...
Everyone has an opinion, and a person is off base for criticizing a person for his or her opinion. The problem is, it's just an opinion and it does matter where a person voices that opinion. So I'll relate a little story for what it's worth;
When a person builds cars and more specifically, high end cars then takes them to a show, everybody is an expert (not really). (I'm talking LS6, COPO, Cars and etc. - This Malibu is a high cost car but not a high end car). In the same vein, after building numerous cars, when that person goes to a car show, they're bound to see things they don't like, things that are incorrect or things they would have done differently. The advice I offer is, Let It Go. Every persons hot rod is potentially their world. When I look at a car, I may think it, it might even really bug me, but unless the owner asks my opinion, I never go up to a guy and say; hey buddy, you have the wrong fasteners on this and that color is the wrong shade, LS6 cars never had AC and you have the wrong pulleys on the engine. The trim tag says it's a white car but clearly it's red. Again, Let it Go.
I'm perfectly content with the choices I've made. I don't need to run out and try every new thing that pops up on the market. Butyl rubber is synthetic based, still used for roofing and still off gases. Yes, it's a different smell but it's still a smell. I never get agitated when someone asks a question or makes a suggestion, I'm not agitated by the comments. I just don't care for people pushing their agenda at the expense of my build space, no more, no less.
:arrow: :arrow: :arrow:
:idea: Enough said, back to building cars. :idea: ...
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