IROC Wagon Project

[liquidh8]

Looking good Scott, I am one to blast and paint all my fasteners also. Why wire it and throw it back in just to rust. I have also used a model paint brush and the same paint sprayed in a paint cap to touch up the fasteners after I put them in a chipped the coating. :?

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

I hear ya man, my dad always used to say "the devil is in the details" Hadn't considered touching stuff up after installed until you mentioned it. Good idea, when I'm sure I'm done, I will do just that. ...

As always, thanks. ...

Scott, ...

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: 8)

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

Finally got this monster ready to reinstall in the car, now I just need to get twelve of my closest friends to help me put it back in the car. Actually, I think two can do it sufficiently.



Took the factory carpet of the lower door panels and scraped all the glue off. That turned out to be a very therapeutic task when all was said and done. Getting these things ready for dye is the next step. A good scrub with SEM soap and we'll get this rodeo kicked off.

I’m told it’s not really dye but rather paint with a flex additive added that works well with plastics and vinyls. The SEM website has a lot of good information and videos that basically walk a person through the process.



Saved the factory carpet for patterns. For what it’s worth; when working with carpet, don’t skimp on the blades you’re using. A sharp edge will produce a nice cut and therefore a nice line. In my opinion, three or four long cuts with one blade is all I’m gonna do. You can reuse those blades around the shop to cut up cardboard and other crap so they’re not really going to be wasted. Dull blades make crappy cuts and thus crappy edges; unless that’s the look you’re going for. I am not.



Lord knows what the hell I have going on here. May be cruise control servos from both “G” and “F” body cars but I don’t recall buying an F- Body servo. I have scrapped a couple of F-Body’s over the years. Does anyone know for sure if all G-Body servos are the same size? I have both a four inch and roughly five and a half inch servos that are identical with the exception of circumference.



Like I said “search me”.



Here’s my Tuned Port cruise control servo bracket after glass bead and paint. I haven’t tried mounting both of the servos on this bracket yet so ultimately, this may determine which cruise control servo I use. It seems I may need a cruise control module bracket too. Don't know where it mounts or whether I need one or not. Anyone?



I just dug this out, I’m not sure if this is a G-Body or an F-Body Vapor Canister. It doesn’t really fit well in the spot on the inner fender but has the same exact mounting tabs I already have cleaned and painted. The part number is 17087213, haven’t even started on it yet so there’s no labor lost if it isn’t the right piece. None of this crap is going to work but it’s going to all look like it works. :wink:

It amazes me how some people will clamp the hell out of vacuum lines that would be hard pressed to ever come off. While I’m in blasting and cleaning parts mode, I’m gonna do as much as this stuff as I can. Cleaning this stuff now will make it nice to just bolt something on for a change in the future.



Still test fitting the fold down rear seat mechanism. Surprisingly minimal trauma so far.



Hmmmm, what to do with those curb rash ridden IROC wheels? :wink:



Future for sale parts. Got both Olds and Pontiac stuff I don’t intend to use. I must have hit my head or had an obscure idea of sorts. Back we go to the KISS philosophy.



Well, that's all I can stand for one evening. ...

:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: 8)

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

I'm excited to see the interior finished. I think we have somewhat of the same plan, but yours is in place.

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

Yep, Saturday again and a little more work on the car. Decided to use larger font to give all of our eyes a break. Also will allow me to actually read what I post.

Picked up my core support and some other little parts from the powder coater yesterday. Not sure what happened to the black parts but they didn’t come out as the forty percent gloss reduction (sixty percent shine) like they were supposed to. They’re too shiny for where they’re going so I’ll have to take them back for a redo. The black pile included hood hinges, hood latch mount and bolts, cross tie bar and a couple of other little brackets. Luckily I don’t need any of the parts right now, just trying to get ahead of the game.

Core support turned out pretty nice, a little flashier than I really wanted but they did as I asked so I’m the one to blame for this. With all the black, it was starting to get a little boring under the hood so I decided to leave the aluminum core support aluminesqe looking. The finish really needs to be a little duller but I’m gonna make it work. So little of the support will be seen when the rest of the sheet metal is bolted to it I don’t think it will be too much. Just don't want it to look like I chromed it.

I noticed that the center cushion mounted in the middle of the cowl has a jamb nut so I made an engineering change and added jamb nuts to the left and right outer hood cushions.



I believe these are the fasteners that attach the lower air deflector.



I mounted everything to the core support I could think of. Hood cushions, condenser cushions, cross braces, clips and hardware and then test mounted it on the car. Having done that, now I have questions.



This photo shows the cross braces both mounted on the outside of the core support, which would be towards the front of the car. Problem is, they have a heavy interference where they intersect.



Does one of the two core support braces mount from the backside?

That’s the way I have it currently because they were too close (rubbing) when I tried to mount them both from the front side of the support. This car never had these pieces so I have no reference. Would be nice to see a photo of an ORIGINAL car with the braces. Of course, these aren't the original braces either. They're original to something, just not G-Body. These are like 3/8" beefy.



It doesn't look like the condenser will sit too far forward allowing it to rub on the inside cross brace. Time will tell.









And as misery loves company, I’ve been playing around with the console again. Pretty well have it straight in my mind what I need to do; now I just need to do it.







This is something I’ve been toying around with. After glass beading and while the pores in the metal are still porous, I submerge some parts in WD 40, cover the pan and leave for a week. When the parts are taken out and dried naturally, it leaves this nice fresh look, dry to the touch. I figure the metal has to absorb some of that liquid.

Anyway, I don’t want to paint some of these mechanisms so this is what I’m trying. Anybody has a better idea, let’s hear it. And no, clear isn’t really a better idea.





Looks like this will be my next future rear brake setup. This is a 93-97 Z28 Rear Disc setup. The difference between this setup and the one I currently have on the car (98-02) is that the earlier setup had the calipers to the rear of the car whereas the 98-02 has the calipers toward the center (where they're supposed to be for balance).

Unfortunately, the wagons big *ss frame extension hits the calipers when the suspension compresses. Yeah, I'm really frustrated with this rear brake deal. Just not sure how I can make the inboard calipers work without half assing something like mounting them backwards on the opposite sides they were designed to be on. As I may have said earlier, I'll be leaving this to the very end before I tear my rear end apart.



:arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

Scott, ...

 

[O. D. Showtime]

Looking good Scott!

As for the rad X braces....I've pulled quite a few and all have been mounted on the front side of the support. Now if you say you have "beefy" ones..at like 3/8" those I don't believe are Gbody ones. I think the Bbody cars used the thicker bars. I compared one day and they are longer as well..is there any sign of them being cut down?

The Gbody ones will clear each other...I just pulled a set last week.

There was a member on the site using Bbody ones and cutting them down..did you purchase them off the site here?

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

Yesterday I saw a Chrysler 300 with the calipers mounted down and to the front. Have you considered that? I had never seen it or thought of it prior, and immediately thought you might be interested.

 

[ssbrewskyaz]

Hey Kevin,

Thanks, and Yep, I did buy the B-Body braces that were cut down to fit the G-Body. I really like the braces but the predicament is as articulated. Not really a big deal, was just curious how the other half lives! ...

:wink:

Not sure I follow on the Chrysler 300 comment? I haven't really looked at a Chrysler rear lately (even back in the day, the Chryslers were always looking at my rear) but it seems they would be completely different than GM. Worth a look though. Thanks for the note. ...

:?

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

Didn't specify lol the rear calipers. If I'm remembering right, you wanted the rear caliper mounted to the front but they were hitting the shock mount? I could be confusing you with someone else. And I'm not sure if you could do that or not. Just figured it'd be worth bringing up.

Edit: best photo I could find. I can remove it if you don't want it clogging your thread.

 

[Longroof79]

Everything is looking really good, Scott.
I like the patina on the aluminum rad support and on the hood latch. As for the radiator X-braces, I have them mounted on the front side and there's no interference. With the B-body braces, I suppose you could always add a thin washer on the outside bar for additional clearance.