IROC Wagon Project
- Thread starter ssbrewskyaz
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I'm looking at the photos, and it looks like you've done the '98-'05 Blazer front brake upgrade, am I right? Could you tell me where you got the drilled and slotted rotors? I'm planning this job for my Monte for next winter, and I'm going to need new rotors when I do it. Thanks very much.
What year car did you get the brakes from,is it a kit or did you fab them to fit. ,insaine resto you putting in the iroc dash too ,ive seen it done on a grand prix before looks good
Here's the link to the Disc/Disc prop valve. http://inlinetube.com/Prop%20Valves/VCH108.htm. If it doesn't work, copy and paste it into the url line and hit enter. $85.00 plus shipping.
Front disc brakes are LS1 Camaro i.e. 98 - 02 Z28 / SS.
Rear disc brakes are S10 Etreme 98 - 02
Rotors are from a company in Southern California called R1 Concepts. They were very helpful and concerned I was ordering the right parts when I ordered LS1 Fronts and Blazer Extreme rears. They actually called me to verify. eBay is the way here. There's a couple different levels you can buy. I picked the middle as this is just a driver for me.
I'm using the G-Body dash with the IROC console integrated into where the radio pod and ashtray usually reside. Dawned on me two weeks ago that the IROC has the window switches in the console. This amounts to more electrical headaches for me but it's the way it has to be.
Scott. ...
Front disc brakes are LS1 Camaro i.e. 98 - 02 Z28 / SS.
Rear disc brakes are S10 Etreme 98 - 02
Rotors are from a company in Southern California called R1 Concepts. They were very helpful and concerned I was ordering the right parts when I ordered LS1 Fronts and Blazer Extreme rears. They actually called me to verify. eBay is the way here. There's a couple different levels you can buy. I picked the middle as this is just a driver for me.
I'm using the G-Body dash with the IROC console integrated into where the radio pod and ashtray usually reside. Dawned on me two weeks ago that the IROC has the window switches in the console. This amounts to more electrical headaches for me but it's the way it has to be.
Scott. ...
Scott,
I have a question regarding the use of the front LS1 calipers, etc. Did you use the G-body spindles modified to accommodate the calipers, or were you able to use the F-body spindles? Just curious. I was also considering the dual piston set-up from the S-10 Blazer.
Thanks!
I have a question regarding the use of the front LS1 calipers, etc. Did you use the G-body spindles modified to accommodate the calipers, or were you able to use the F-body spindles? Just curious. I was also considering the dual piston set-up from the S-10 Blazer.
Thanks!
Should be a hatch release button in the middle of the two window buttons too on the camaro console.
Hello Jack,
I don't have the photos with me but the answer to your question is, it's not a bolt on. However, I took the best of the info I got from the internet and made a combination that I hope will work well.
I bought a set of hubs and abutment brackets from a guy (I apologize don't have his name with me either) that's probably on this site. It's the setup where you start with a rotor and cut the rotor off and use the hub. The parts were nice, hubs came with seals and new lug studs and the price was friendly. They were painted black, I had them powder coated silver.
There is a fair amount of work that has to be done to the spindle. Wasn't overly difficult but more slow as you measure and remeasure instead of "cut it twice and it's still too short". I think I have some decent photos I can post once I get back from Denver.
Here's the kicker, I can't say for sure about the wheels that everyone else is running, I can't really even speak to 16 inch IROC front wheels, but I know for certain that IROC rear wheels will not work without a spacer/adapter. The 5.25 Backset allows the step on the inside of the wheel to rub on the caliper cooling fins. Beyond that, the outside edge of the wheel rubs on the tierod end. 3/4 of an inch in spacers gets you a 1/4 from the tierod end. Remeber, this is with a rear wheel on the front which is what I want to run.
The IROC rear wheel on the rear put the tire about a 1/2 an inch from the frame with a fairly weasely tire installed. So, I'll be running made in the USA billet one inch spacer/adapters front and rear. My spindles are S10 but I think every lowering spindle you can purchase can be used on either a G-Body or an S10 application.
I think the chrome 16 or 17 inch IROC wheels would work in the tierod end area as they only have a 4.5 inch backset. I'm really not sure if there will be a rub on the caliper cooling fins, if the wheels have a step like the stock IROC wheels do, then it's propably the same rub.
I don't have the photos with me but the answer to your question is, it's not a bolt on. However, I took the best of the info I got from the internet and made a combination that I hope will work well.
I bought a set of hubs and abutment brackets from a guy (I apologize don't have his name with me either) that's probably on this site. It's the setup where you start with a rotor and cut the rotor off and use the hub. The parts were nice, hubs came with seals and new lug studs and the price was friendly. They were painted black, I had them powder coated silver.
There is a fair amount of work that has to be done to the spindle. Wasn't overly difficult but more slow as you measure and remeasure instead of "cut it twice and it's still too short". I think I have some decent photos I can post once I get back from Denver.
Here's the kicker, I can't say for sure about the wheels that everyone else is running, I can't really even speak to 16 inch IROC front wheels, but I know for certain that IROC rear wheels will not work without a spacer/adapter. The 5.25 Backset allows the step on the inside of the wheel to rub on the caliper cooling fins. Beyond that, the outside edge of the wheel rubs on the tierod end. 3/4 of an inch in spacers gets you a 1/4 from the tierod end. Remeber, this is with a rear wheel on the front which is what I want to run.
The IROC rear wheel on the rear put the tire about a 1/2 an inch from the frame with a fairly weasely tire installed. So, I'll be running made in the USA billet one inch spacer/adapters front and rear. My spindles are S10 but I think every lowering spindle you can purchase can be used on either a G-Body or an S10 application.
I think the chrome 16 or 17 inch IROC wheels would work in the tierod end area as they only have a 4.5 inch backset. I'm really not sure if there will be a rub on the caliper cooling fins, if the wheels have a step like the stock IROC wheels do, then it's propably the same rub.
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Scott,
I believe Ben (SRD) is using the same front hub/rotor configuration on his Cutlass wagon build. He'll also be running large wheels (18"?) My concern is that I'll still be running 15" wheels. So that could possibly pose a clearance issue.
I appreciate your feedback and pics of your build accomplishments. You certainly have alot of great ideas. Keep 'em comin'.
Thanks again man.
I believe Ben (SRD) is using the same front hub/rotor configuration on his Cutlass wagon build. He'll also be running large wheels (18"?) My concern is that I'll still be running 15" wheels. So that could possibly pose a clearance issue.
I appreciate your feedback and pics of your build accomplishments. You certainly have alot of great ideas. Keep 'em comin'.
Thanks again man.
Jack,
As I said I would I went and found the only photos I have of the front corner assemblies apart. The only reason I have any at all is because on the way back from the powder coater they were damaged. I was disgusted with the color but not as much as the fact they had been packed poorly, broke through the bottom of the box crushing the caps and grinding off the color coat.
No problem, a good friend of mine who helped me with the machine work said ship them back and we'll fix it. I did and they did, fixed the color and reassembled the corners. The trick was to powder coat the spindles without making them look like they were powdercoated. Got exactly that in the end.
I really like this setup albeit I haven't driven the car yet. I like the fact I can screw any rotor I want on this dude without having to take the hub apart and mess with the bearings. I still can't find the fellas name I bought the hubs and abutment brackets from but he was a prince to deal with. Told him what I wanted, used PayPal to pay him and the stuff showed up in short order. Just the way it should be.
As I said I would I went and found the only photos I have of the front corner assemblies apart. The only reason I have any at all is because on the way back from the powder coater they were damaged. I was disgusted with the color but not as much as the fact they had been packed poorly, broke through the bottom of the box crushing the caps and grinding off the color coat.
No problem, a good friend of mine who helped me with the machine work said ship them back and we'll fix it. I did and they did, fixed the color and reassembled the corners. The trick was to powder coat the spindles without making them look like they were powdercoated. Got exactly that in the end.
I really like this setup albeit I haven't driven the car yet. I like the fact I can screw any rotor I want on this dude without having to take the hub apart and mess with the bearings. I still can't find the fellas name I bought the hubs and abutment brackets from but he was a prince to deal with. Told him what I wanted, used PayPal to pay him and the stuff showed up in short order. Just the way it should be.
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