is the 488-511 cu in engine just a different crank?

[85_455_cutty]

was curious if this was just a different crankshaft in the 455 and bored like usual? Didnt know what they were talking about with the different bore numbers. If its just a different crank is everything else for the 455 the same parts that ud normally use? Kinda interested in using a combo like this for my street/strip cutlass if its not more hassle than building up my regular 455 thats bored to a 461.



DMR-5467-S Crankshaft Assy 488-511 Forged Steel
DMR-5467-S (Pictured with all parts coated - NOT INCLUDED) This 488-511 cu in crankshaft assembly can be used in a 425 or 455 block. Kit comes with a factory forged steel crank (balanced, cross drilled and chamfered), rod bearings, drilled main bearings, DMR-5455 7" billet rods by Oliver, Diamond custom pistons (any bore and ring combination made to your specifications), moly file fit rings for proper seal and less drag, new SFI damper and bolt, new SFI flexplate, ARP flexplate bolts, and freeze plug kit. This kit is intended for hard street to all out race use. Use with DMR-5943 billet main bearing caps and a girdle (22360-2, 22361-2, 22362-2) for the highest torque, baddest, and strongest race engine available.

4.155 bore = 488 cu in
4.185 bore = 496 cu in
4.214 boee = 503 ci in
4.250 bore = 511 ci in

 

[dogsht]

Yea like it says forged steel crank. It does not say it in that clip but its a long 4.5" stroke and then naturally the different bores take it to a different cubic inch. I like a long stroke for a street engine in that it keeps the power in the rpm range you can use and generally keeps longevity up as well as keeping the need for crazy stall converters & gears down. Some like it in bracket cars as it can be very consistent (suspension / traction pending) and without crazy rpms that takes good parts and engines to an early grave. The Olds small bore makes it hard to breath deep which is further complicated by a really long stroke. So the bigger bore helps them breath but also makes the block weaker. So keep in mind that you need major heads to get your money worth out of that stroke, machine work & block notching to make it fit, and probably some type girdle to help hold it all together. That's a high dollar kit but Oliver rods are best of the best. HurstOlds6 our Gbody of the month winner might be able to chime in as his is powered by a DMR Olds 496.

 

[FE3X CLONE]

As mentioned, this would be a really nice kit but be prepared to have close to if not slightly more than $10K into the engine by the time your done.

With the kit price being $5,600 you 'll have at least another $1000-$1500 in machine work to the block.

Camshaft, heads, and everything else needed to support something like this could be another $2000 at least.

But if your lucky and do some searching you can find some pretty good deals out there that would help bring the price down.

When I was building my 455 I managed to score a Mondello rotating assembly (I NEVER buy Mondello stuff but this was second hand) with a 425 forged crank, offset ground, knife edged counter weights, cross drilled and nitrited, Manley 6.990" alumiunum rods, Arias 11:1 flat top pistons, pins and all bearings for $1500 new. 🙂

 

[85_455_cutty]

My goal is to get around 700hp from my engine and im trying to figure out the best way to go about it. Right now im at 450hp with a 455 bored to a 461 with flat top pistons, a slightly better than stock cam from the specs and cam description, and heads that have a little port and polish done and a torker intake. Im sure i could reach my goal without changing the crank and all that or am I wrong?

 

[JBreu]

My goal is to get around 700hp from my engine and im trying to figure out the best way to go about it. Right now im at 450hp with a 455 bored to a 461 with flat top pistons, a slightly better than stock cam from the specs and cam description, and heads that have a little port and polish done and a torker intake. Im sure i could reach my goal without changing the crank and all that or am I wrong?

Ever thought about Notrous ??

 

[85_455_cutty]

yes I have but would rather it be all motor. For now anyways lol

 

[FE3X CLONE]

700hp is a time bomb in a mostly stock bottom end 455.

To make that kind of power and keep the lower end together you need lightweight parts, girdle, etc.

When you start talking that kind of power, your better off going with a 350DX build just for the block strength.

 

[85_455_cutty]

what light weight parts would I need? I like having the 455 in my car. It was my goal for a long time to get it done so id like to stay with it for right now. My overall goal with my car is gonna be a bad *ss street car that I can still take to the track and run 10 seconds in the qtr mile if possible.

 

[olds307 and 403]

There is also the cast steel crank Eagle 455 stroker combo available. It should satisfy your needs and be lighter and stronger than your factory parts. I would get all the tolerances checked before install though.

 

[85_455_cutty]

ok cool. thanks for all the info guys.