I opened up my fuse box to find a 12V source for my electric choke and couldn't find anything. I tested the voltage on all the fuses and got 0V for every single one. Is it possible that the owner prior to me relocated the fuse box or rerouted the wires somewhere? I can't figure out what's going on and more importantly I can't find a place to route the + terminal for my electric choke.
Keyed 12V power source
- Thread starter kifried
- Start date
- Status
Not to be insulting, but you did check the fuses with the key in the "On" position, correct?
As far as a place to splice, I'd think splicing into the power wire for the HEI distributor would be an ideal place since it would be hot in the "On" position. Plus you wouldn't have to go through the firewall.
Anyone else agree??
As far as a place to splice, I'd think splicing into the power wire for the HEI distributor would be an ideal place since it would be hot in the "On" position. Plus you wouldn't have to go through the firewall.
Anyone else agree??
pose_442 said:
I agree, save yourself some time and run it off the HEI.
About the fuse box, are all the wires still coming out of the firewall to the fuse box? I doubt some one would rewire and still leave all original wiring in place.
yes i put the key in the on position and still got nothing. I also grounded to the body in several different locations and got no voltage reading. There is no factory choke wire on my carb. I'm using an edelbrock performer with the aftermarket electric choke kit. I guess I'll just wire it into the HEI system I thought I read somewhere that edelbrock doesn't recommend doing that but I could be wrong.
If you are using an Edelbrock carb, you can use the GM choke wire for the positive side, then loop a wire from the other connector to the carb body as a ground. I did this with no problem on mine before I went back to a Q-Jet.
Also, I believe the correct fuse is the gages fuse for the choke heater. The choke heater wire that goes directly to the choke is a solid blue one in my FSM. There is also a choke heater relay in the harness too, and a C/H Fuse also listed in the diagram. What C/H means I do not know as it does not state, but Choke Heater is a logical conclusion. It also is tied into the oil pressure switch somehow, but only on cars without the gage package. Bear in mind that my manual set is for an Olds, but GM didn't really switch colors and schemes up too much between models.
Also, I believe the correct fuse is the gages fuse for the choke heater. The choke heater wire that goes directly to the choke is a solid blue one in my FSM. There is also a choke heater relay in the harness too, and a C/H Fuse also listed in the diagram. What C/H means I do not know as it does not state, but Choke Heater is a logical conclusion. It also is tied into the oil pressure switch somehow, but only on cars without the gage package. Bear in mind that my manual set is for an Olds, but GM didn't really switch colors and schemes up too much between models.
gm ran the choke wire through the oil pressure switch on top of the motor(thats where it is for chevy, not sure about BOP). this switch is used for the idiot light but also for the sole purpose of controlling the choke on gauge equipped cars. they did this so in case you leave the key on but not running, the choke won't heat up before you can start it up. if it was me, i'd try to stick with the oil pressure switch just so i wouldn't have to worry about it. but i'm the kind of person that will go out of my way to make everything look factory.
The choke wire depends upon whether or not you have factory gauges or idiot lights and if you have a V6 or V8 car. I have a schemtic that I can try to upload later on.
I don't like drawing any power from the HEI either.
I believe you can splice into the feed wire for the wipers.
I believe you can splice into the feed wire for the wipers.
- Status
Similar threads
