Khan's Motoring Chronicles - PICTURES & VIDEO FROM THE TRACK

Status
Not open for further replies.
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

I've been running a 400 with a deck crack between a head bolt hole and the edge of a cylinder for several years. No issues so far. Don't lose any sleep over it. Might be a good idea to keep an eye out for a good deal on a spare block -- just in case. If your luck is anything like mine, just having a spare will insure that you never have a problem with the one you're running. No spare will guarantee catastrophic failure. Just seems to be the way the universe works.
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

thanks for the comments and reassurance. This was supposed to be a quick refresh on a budget, but it's already costed alot and is getting late. I'm trying to cut costs and finish quickly.
... but I'm also not cutting corners and trying to do it right.

I think the fracture will keep me up at night, but it won't stop me from beating on it like I did before :mrgreen:
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

so I took the top end apart and sent the short block to the machinist. While I was waiting for the short block, I kept myself busy with re-freshening other components in the car. I cleaned the engine bay and refurbished the engine wiring harness a little.

Then I decided I wanted a new look for my engine. My intake was pitting and getting dull with oxide, so I painted it. Along with the water pump and few other parts.

GPIntake003.jpg

GPIntake023.jpg

GPIntake018.jpg

GPIntake026.jpg

GPIntake030.jpg


I decided this would be a good time to replace my old steering box, and I also got myself a Jeep steering shaft. And I took out all the front bracing and painted that as well.

IMG_1430.jpg

IMG_1433.jpg

IMG_1434.jpg

IMG_1437.jpg

IMG_1440.jpg

IMG_1438.jpg


I also got myself a mini starter...
IMG_1419.jpg
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

I also took an evening to lap the valves and CC'd my heads
I used a pet feeder and cut a 4x4 bit of plexiglass with a couple holes in it

IMG_1448.jpg

IMG_1450.jpg

IMG_1451.jpg


also CC'd the intake ports as well

here's some close shots of the heads
IMG_1516.jpg

IMG_1702.jpg

IMG_1703.jpg

IMG_1697.jpg

IMG_1720.jpg

IMG_1724.jpg


I measured 57cc chambers and roughly 164cc ports
... lol, imagine how restrictive they were before all that porting!
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

there was one week where I spent a few evenings and the weekend working on my headers.

here's how they started
DSC00854.jpg


I got some quotes for sand blasting... $150 was the cheapest :shock: so onto plan B
I spent a few evenings with a wire wheel on my drill and buffed out all the rust I could get to

IMG_1402.jpg

IMG_1404.jpg

IMG_1406.jpg


then I found this product called RustBlast from KBS, that I had seen G-Body_Vet use on his fenders and other components, and I thought I'd give this a try.
IMG_1460.jpg

IMG_1462.jpg


I did two treatments, just for peace of mind. Here's how they turned out
IMG_1479.jpg

IMG_1480.jpg

IMG_1482.jpg


it works well, it lifts the rust right off the metal. But I found for rusty parts, it would be more effective to keep a small wire brush and scrape the rust off as the chemical lifts it away. You'll have a cleaner result this way than I did without.

KBS also makes high heat header paints which I thought I'd try. When I asked for a couple of spray cans, the dealer was out of stock and said their brush-on paint is far more popular. I had my doubts, but he convinced me to use it. And I wish I hadn't listened... hated every minute of it.

it's a good paint, applies very nicely, levels evenly, but it's a PITA using a brush on headers... looks like a monkey painted it. You have to spend alot more time and place attention to detail if you want them to look nice with the brush paint.

IMG_1489.jpg

IMG_1490.jpg

IMG_1487.jpg

IMG_1505.jpg

IMG_1506.jpg


I spent alot of time and a few finishing coats to get a nice application pattern like this

IMG_1492.jpg

IMG_1495.jpg

IMG_1509.jpg

IMG_1510.jpg


and I borrowed a heat gun from work to cure the paint
IMG_1511.jpg
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

well, I finally got a chance to upload my rebuilding pictures. It's been a slow process and there's a few things left to do, but here's how it's been going.

so here's how it looked when I got it back from machine shop. I wasn't able to get to it for a few days, so I sprayed the cylinders and lifter bores with wd40 and covered with oil soaked rags, and wrapped the engine in a garbage bag.
IMG_1727.jpg

IMG_1729.jpg

IMG_1731.jpg


the deck has never been milled, but machinist sanded it a little to clean it up
IMG_1736.jpg

IMG_1740.jpg


you can see the hone couldn't get all the scratches. But machinist says they should be okay for my budget build
IMG_1737.jpg

IMG_1739.jpg


TRW L-2256-30, I think they have offset pins
IMG_1741.jpg
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

putting on the heads

IMG_1743.jpg

IMG_1745.jpg

IMG_1746.jpg

IMG_1749.jpg

IMG_1752.jpg


I gave alot of attention and care to the head bolts. I cleaned them, labeled them, and bagged them. But in the end, I lost a washer and couldn't find it. I looked for hardened washers and only found miss-matched sets. And I didn't want to order them from Summit because I didn't have anything else I was ordering. For what it would cost to get washers, I bought myself a set of Fel-Pro factory style flange bolts.
IMG_1755.jpg

IMG_1754.jpg


they had sealer on them, so I just chased the threads in the block and installed these as is
IMG_1756.jpg


speed stick helps
IMG_1757.jpg


followed the torque pattern. I stepped them up from 25lbs to 45lbs then 65lbs. At 65lbs, I loosened and retorqued to 65lbs to account for stretch.
IMG_1762.jpg


here's the passenger side
IMG_1766.jpg


guess what I'm pointing to?
IMG_1767.jpg

IMG_1771.jpg

IMG_1772.jpg


fingers crossed, this fracture holds. I've got good gaskets and the fracture seems to be small.
IMG_1777.jpg

IMG_1776.jpg


I covered the cam lobes with the Comp assembly lube. I bolted the gear on while installing to use as a handle. I had brought cyl #1 to tdc before putting the heads on, and installed the timing gear as I marked it when I took it off
IMG_1784.jpg


I had individually bagged and labeled the lifters on dis-assembly. So I cleaned the old oil off, soaked them in new oil, and put them in the bores. These are solid lifters, so I didn't have to leave them soaking over night. I used some assembly lube on the pushrod ends, on the rockers, and valve stems
IMG_1788.jpg


put the intake there temporarily to keep dirt and animals out of the lifter valley. Looks pretty good I think
IMG_1793.jpg
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

I thought at this stage, I should paint the engine. I degreased it with a rag and some brake clean and scraped off any remaining rtv and old loose paint. Here's how I masked it

IMG_1796.jpg

IMG_1800.jpg

IMG_1801.jpg


alot of detail around the heads and gaskets for a clean look

IMG_1803.jpg

IMG_1804.jpg


I sprayed about 3 decent coats... not gonna bother with clear coat, it's not a show engine.

IMG_1806.jpg

IMG_1807.jpg

IMG_1809.jpg

IMG_1812.jpg


here's how it turned out, sorry for the blurry pics

IMG_1815.jpg

IMG_1818.jpg

IMG_1820.jpg



I have to say... I'm getting quicker and quicker with my paint work. It used to take me hours to mask. This was one of my quicker paint jobs and even had time for other tasks that evening.
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

putting on the timing cover and water pump. I was a little unsure about the timing cover crank seal. I used a flat screw driver to catch the seal's ridge from the backside and hammered until it popped out. I was careful not to warp the cover and moved around the seal as I hammered. I lined up the new seal and used a flat 2x4 ontop to hammer it in. I tried to push it in to same depth as the old seal.

IMG_1822.jpg

IMG_1823.jpg


thin bead of silicone around the perimeter

IMG_1821.jpg

IMG_1824.jpg

IMG_1825.jpg


some silicone around the water ports and pump

IMG_1835.jpg

IMG_1836.jpg


unfortunately, I tore a water pump gasket trying to take out of the package. I used the tacky "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer as an affect to glue the gasket together. I'm hoping it holds

IMG_1838.jpg

IMG_1839.jpg

IMG_1841.jpg

IMG_1843.jpg

IMG_1844.jpg


clean up the silicone around the edges
IMG_1845.jpg

IMG_1847.jpg

IMG_1848.jpg
 
Re: Khan's Motoring Chronicles

installing the intake, needed some trimming on the gasket to match the ports. Here's the old gasket laid over the new.

IMG_1850.jpg

IMG_1852.jpg


used a straight edge and exacto knife. Just a little off the top

IMG_1854.jpg

IMG_1857.jpg


little silicone around the water ports and bolt holes. And some Gasgacinch around the air ports to keep the gasket and center section from shifting during install.

IMG_1858.jpg

IMG_1863.jpg

IMG_1864.jpg

IMG_1865.jpg


I don't know if anyone uses these cork end gaskets. I decided to use them with a generous bead of silicone

IMG_1867.jpg

IMG_1868.jpg


For a clean look, I masked the area under the front and back of the intake. I spent some time spreading and packing the silicone underneath. Then I smoothed it out and pealed away the tape for a straight line

IMG_1871.jpg

IMG_1872.jpg

IMG_1874.jpg


I put sealer on the bolts to prevent oil coming up from from the lifter valley. And here's the finished result

IMG_1869.jpg

IMG_1870.jpg



I'm sort of on hold at this point. The intake could not be torqued down properly. Due to some odd interference from the shape of the intake and under the airgap bowl, it's tough to get a torque wrench on and easy to strip the bolts. Will need to install new bolts and torque them by feel.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor