Late model stand alone aftermarket stereo.

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Got front speaker pods ready to assemble. Since keeping factory speaker functional, cut a 1"strip from a 6"pipe coupler to fit around speaker. Has slot in side of sleeve & door panel. Cover will screw over sleeve with a mild sealant. Need to make a wire loom sleeve in side of panel for speaker wire, doesn't look possible to fish wires through factory loom. Door panel is cutout for pod.
 

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Got in a few hrs today. Fished speaker wire from center of door wire loom loop into door & up through a rubber plug to insides. Removed the 4 tweeters from dash & put 1 each on speaker pods, need to cut more angle adapters to get pointed at my ears better. Installed the 8's. Starting to sound better now. Was able to turn amp gain back up to a little past the half mark from about 1/3 of the way with the kick panel boxes chocking my speakers. Wish the hell I never spent all that time on making plastic pods. Think I may see 8" door mounted speakers in the elky's doors someday in place of 6'5 kick panel speakers.
Got a pretty decent sound with the old rear speakers sounding dull in comparison playing fairly loud without audible distortion. Thinking a much larger 4 channel amp will be in order soon.
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Got my Stinger sg32 solenoid wired in to the vehicles switched 12 power sunday so I finally got the needed over 14 volts to power things.
Cutout corners of bulkhead & part of vehicle foam corners & started making rear speaker boxes using C.A.D. DESIGN😗.

Considering the jl audio 10W3v3-2 sub on a ported box. Supposed to be a much cleaner sounding bass. Box specs are for a wooden port, would rather do a pvc aeroport. Wonder if I could just do the math of the internal port volume (1.25 x 10.5 = 13.125). 13.125-3.1416 =4.177 , roughly 4"id tube along with keeping actual air volume the same. 1.125 cf + speaker displacement + pipe inside tube o.d. displacement ???????? Not familiar with all these box building programs.
10W3v3-4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio
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Got the rear boxes built & trying out before neatening up carpet & wiring. Re aimed front tweeters better to drivers ears. Sounding much better now, though rears don't sound as good as fronts. I know they don't need to. Wonder how much of the difference is from location & from fronts being 8" & rear 6 x 9? Also wondering of more downward angle would help. Moving to corners was difficult to build ,but really helped. Really needing better sub bass to compete with full range now.
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Got me another full range amp today from nearby shop. It is used, but they tested in front of me. Its a Ds18 elite series z3k4 amp. it's a class ab, so kinda big , but 4 ohm rated @150w x 4 @.01thd. New online average$359, got for 150.Amazon.com: DS18 Elite Z-3K4 Car Audio Amplifier in Black - Class AB, 4 Channels, 3000 Watts Max, Digital, 2/4 Ohm, Heavy Duty Heatsink, MOSFET - Car Audio Amp for Subwoofer and Door Speakers
Hopefully it'll be what i want. Also got a pair of ds 18pro-twx1 tweeters, since my silk dome are a little weak , volume wise.
Amazon.com: DS18 PRO-TWX1 Super Tweeter in Silver - 1", Aluminum Frame and Diaphragm, 240W Max, 4 Ohms, Built in Crossover - PRO Tweeters are The Best in The Pro Audio and Voceteo Market (Pair) - Silver: Home Audio & Theater

Shop recommended making a little box to put them in & play with location before final mount, preferably side door pillar just over my head or upfront on a pillar, near stock tweeter location, NOT on doors where legs would block path where many install these. Any thoughts appreciated.

Considering the Ds18exl-x10 sub from them. More $, but probably better quality than Skar. Can get for 210 cash.
EXL-X 10" Subwoofer 1700 Watts Dvc 4-Ohms – ds18caraudio
Fleming;;:mrgreen:can you confirm box specs for aeroport? they call for1.2 cf box for vented , net after displacement of speaker & port, which I'm confused on . I assume they mean add in space for speaker & port displacement?? They call for20sq in x 29" long. 20divided by 3.1416 _6.366", so a 6" id tube 29" long, plus the areoport flares.
That sound correct? Big ole tube sticking out of box.😕
Thanks in advance.

RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE SPACES – ds18caraudio
 
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And to think years ago I was ecstatic when my work let me buy some CD players and install them in place of the stock AM/FM radio's in our trucks.
 
Got me another full range amp today from nearby shop. It is used, but they tested in front of me. Its a Ds18 elite series z3k4 amp. it's a class ab, so kinda big , but 4 ohm rated @150w x 4 @.01thd. New online average$359, got for 150.Amazon.com: DS18 Elite Z-3K4 Car Audio Amplifier in Black - Class AB, 4 Channels, 3000 Watts Max, Digital, 2/4 Ohm, Heavy Duty Heatsink, MOSFET - Car Audio Amp for Subwoofer and Door Speakers
Hopefully it'll be what i want. Also got a pair of ds 18pro-twx1 tweeters, since my silk dome are a little weak , volume wise.
Amazon.com: DS18 PRO-TWX1 Super Tweeter in Silver - 1", Aluminum Frame and Diaphragm, 240W Max, 4 Ohms, Built in Crossover - PRO Tweeters are The Best in The Pro Audio and Voceteo Market (Pair) - Silver: Home Audio & Theater

Shop recommended making a little box to put them in & play with location before final mount, preferably side door pillar just over my head or upfront on a pillar, near stock tweeter location, NOT on doors where legs would block path where many install these. Any thoughts appreciated.

Considering the Ds18exl-x10 sub from them. More $, but probably better quality than Skar. Can get for 210 cash.
EXL-X 10" Subwoofer 1700 Watts Dvc 4-Ohms – ds18caraudio
Fleming;;:mrgreen:can you confirm box specs for aeroport? they call for1.2 cf box for vented , net after displacement of speaker & port, which I'm confused on . I assume they mean add in space for speaker & port displacement?? They call for20sq in x 29" long. 20divided by 3.1416 _6.366", so a 6" id tube 29" long, plus the areoport flares.
That sound correct? Big ole tube sticking out of box.😕
Thanks in advance.

RECOMMENDED ENCLOSURE SPACES – ds18caraudio
You need to double check some things. That's a ridiculous port for a 1.2 cube box. I thought aeroports gave you measurements for the flutes? I think the Rockford ones did. Either way, that's nuts.
 
Yea, pretty sure my math is right, but that sounds odd too. Without doing math, that box I.D. would probably work out to between 1.5 to 1.75 actual cf accounting for large speaker intrusion &port area. Over 6" tube still sounds big though. doing port with wood slot would work out to a 2 x 10 ID slot that would angle around 2 sides of the box to achieve a 29" length. Have seen similar But boxes I've seen some people build for some of these new high excursion speakers have fairly big looking tubes going a long ways out. I got a contact name at the company I guess I need to get ahold of on that. I understand how important a box can be for a high output speaker to both sound right & live.
I'm new to the term aeroport, but my understanding is it's just a term for a tube with flared ends, not a brand. i see many people heat pvc pipe & mold end, which I could easily do.
Thinks that's a decent type amp I got? many new amps are a more efficient class D, but it's my understanding older A/B type amps can sound better.
 
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