The vortec blocks 96-2001 are all roller cam blocks. If you want to use a old style front cover you will need to put in the two pins that were uses in the older motors. Or easer yet just plug the hole with a wood plug or leave the factory plug in. Its just for the crank trigger on the vortec motors. As for the cam you can reuse the hyd roller with older heads if you want or the best would be to use a set of vortecs 906 or 062 castings and a set of 1.6 rockers for a little more lift. Still safe with the stock valve springs. All the cam, main and rod bearing are all the same for any SBC. Only difference would be the galley plug under the rear main cap and the three galley plugs in the front of the block. They all come in a kit of freeze plugs and galley plugs from any parts store. Piston rings are metric so order them from Rock auto for under $40 and a simple barrel hone is all that needed. Very little wear in the bores because of the metric rings used. If you really want to up the anty then with a little grinding to clearence the block for a stroker kit. Save the $200 by not boring and just order the standard bore kit and you have the 377 cu. in. stroker for less then $800 in the kit shipped free to your door. From their you can up hyd roller cam and some drop in springs for the vortec heads and you are now in a new world of power. You can reuse the hyd roller if you want also. Stock 350 vortec 330-350 HP with the stroker 400+ and a lot more TQ.
Legacy 350 Block VS Vortec 350 Block
- Thread starter abrodeur79
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Beware of buying used Vortec heads. They are HIGHLY prone to cracking. The Vortec blocks have a casting # that ends in 880. The early 880 blocks started being used in 1994-95 on the tbi engines. I have one here from such an application that had the fuel pump mounting fully machined.
Vortec heads are not any more prone to cracking than any other factory head. Best thing to do is have them maged and that will tell you if they are cracked. Most problems came from the circle track guys running them HOT with 10 laps to go. Some of the 880 blocks started to coming out in the 94-95 years but all had the old piston and ring package. Lots of wear in the cylinders with those. The later 880s with the true vortec heads came with the lite piston and metric ring package and a roller cam set up. Some of the earlier 880s came in the camaro firebirds and corvetts had the roller set up, but had the metal timing cover, the true vortecs had the plastic with the crank trigger plug. If any one has questions on the vortec motors Just ask.
Umm, no. That is incorrect. The Vortec heads were notorious for cracking in the chambers and the seats. We used to replace the all the time at the dealership back in the 90's and early 2000's. Typically it would be from air pockets caused by running the engine low on coolant that caused the heads to over heat and crack. Those engines were notorious for coolant leaks from the plastic intake gaskets AND/or the heater hose quick disconnects leaking. They were also notorious for intermixing the coolant..........again because of the plastic OEM intake gaskets. Many circle track guys do not use the GM castings because of the high failure rate. The common set up is the Engine Quest replacements which are VERY high quality Austrailian made heads that are not only thicker, but come with screw in studs and flow slightly better. My local core supplier here will not sell used 062 or 906 Vortec heads because of the propensity for cracking. You don't have to try to hard to find posts or videos on cracked Vortec heads online https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Vortec+350+head+cracking&t=ffnt&ia=videos
If a tbi application 880 had wear in the cylinders it was because they would have well over 200k miles on them before they had to come apart. The tbi stuff was pretty much free of problems. It had nothing to do with the pistons or rings as the pistons were the same basic stuff used on a lot of small blocks going back to the 70's.
Also, 880's were not used in Camaros and Firebirds as the last time they used a Gen 1 block was 1992. The 880 came out 2 years later. Roller cam first was used in the Camaro and Firebirds in 1987 and last used in 1992. That block casting was the 638 casting and was used up to 1993 in B bodies and trucks. This block casting was used in most Gen 1 small block V8 applications up to 1994. It came in 2 and 4 bolt flavors. The ones installed in trucks commonly were not machined for the roller lifter retainers.
I have no problem with Vortec heads. I have used them on several projects. I have thrown out several sets that were cracked. I would advise the original poster to do one of the following if using the Vortec heads:
Buy brand new GM
Buy brand new Engine Quest (my choice)
or make sure you get some kind of money back guarantee from whoever you buy the used heads or engine from.
You are right on what it take to crack a factory head or any head that has been abused with over heating. I also said to have them maged first to be sure any head is not cracked. You are also right on the years of the 638 casting and the later 880s. Any block that used the old heavy pistons and the old ring package will almost always need to be bored. The later true vortecs 96 on up with the short skirted pistons and metric rings are not as prone to cylinder wear and many just need a hone and a new set of rings. The vortec is still the best bang for the buck of any 350 out their. A simple cam change and some good valve springs and your in the 400hp range.
No, the earlier small block heads have more material and do not crack anywhere as easily; even when over heated. It certainly is not common for earlier small block heads to crack. The Vortec castings are HIGHLY prone to cracking and thus the reason why there are so many after market versions. Again, I would make sure that if you buy a used pair or a complete engine that you do so with a money back guarantee. Like I said, my core guy here in South Jersey will not sell Vortec heads because a majority are cracked.
Definitely not a bad thing to consider while its at the machinist's. I dont mind having to run an electric fuel pump and regulator and the EFI options out there now are very tempting haha.
It is crazy the cost for a roller cam and lifters VS a flat tappet... Like 4 times the cost! I may even just run a flat tappet cam to keep cost down vs getting all the parts to keep it a roller.
If you are wanting an awesome, full synthetic, high zinc oil the AMSOIL ZROD is the answer! No need for additives, and made for older, high performance, high compression engines!
Some great info here guys. All much appreciated! I plan on buying some new Vortec style heads for this engine once the time comes. Summit has some highly reviewed ones for about 900 CAD for the pair. But i will look into those Engine Quest ones as well! The block and crank i acquired is from a 96 Chevy half ton. Its a 2 bolt main with the factory roller cam setup and the casting number checks out with that as well!
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A couple of items that haven't been referenced thus far, your 880 block with a 1 piece rear main seal requires a crank designed for a 1 piece rear main seal. The camshaft and timing set for that block needs to be the correct set and cam for the block. It is possible to use the wrong crank, cam and timing set, but it requires a bunch of machining and/or special parts that are not needed.
On the positive side, new parts for each setup are readily available and the factory roller cam setup is the most desirable as long as you stay below .550-.560 lift (I believe those lift numbers are correct - someone can correct me if I'm wrong.). Regarding heads, Vortec heads can be put on any SBC block, but they require a specific intake, and if you want to use facotry valvetrain, then they require self alighning rockers or standard rockers with guide plates.
Personally, I would not consider using a set of known good heads and all of the valve train components to go with them. They are expensive to rebuild and modifiy to handle any type of performance camshaft, and at the end of the day, they are limiting UNLESS a stockish build is all your after. Buy a set of assembled FloTek aluminum heads or assembled Promaxx in the area of $750-850 and be miles ahead of any stock SBC head. From there the price goes up, but many decent aluminum heads are available for less than $1500 per set assembled.
What else do you have with this block? Lifters, crank, rods?
On the positive side, new parts for each setup are readily available and the factory roller cam setup is the most desirable as long as you stay below .550-.560 lift (I believe those lift numbers are correct - someone can correct me if I'm wrong.). Regarding heads, Vortec heads can be put on any SBC block, but they require a specific intake, and if you want to use facotry valvetrain, then they require self alighning rockers or standard rockers with guide plates.
Personally, I would not consider using a set of known good heads and all of the valve train components to go with them. They are expensive to rebuild and modifiy to handle any type of performance camshaft, and at the end of the day, they are limiting UNLESS a stockish build is all your after. Buy a set of assembled FloTek aluminum heads or assembled Promaxx in the area of $750-850 and be miles ahead of any stock SBC head. From there the price goes up, but many decent aluminum heads are available for less than $1500 per set assembled.
What else do you have with this block? Lifters, crank, rods?
Take a look at the GM 7395 cam used in the Ram Jet 350 and the HT383. Fairly mild but supports 1.6 roller rockers when used with stock Vortec heads
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