HELP Looking to install a Holley Sniper

[81camel]

I currently have a 350 in my 81 Malibu with a Quadrajet.
It runs alright though I need to do some adjustments as the high idle isnt going down on its own right now. Otherwise seems fine. I do think the lifters are a bit noisy but dont know if thats a big concern or not.

Anyways, long term I want to do an LS Swap, but looking into it and just the way I am, I wont be satisfied going with a bare bones swap. I will want to rebuild it, custom harness, dress it up, etc so that is going to be very time consuming and expensive.

The Holley Sniper (QJet version), seems very appealing to me. I like the idea of a much more reliable and less finicky fuel system compared to carb. As well not having to worry about the silly heat riser valve, choke adjustments, etc. Driving in cooler weather reliably would be nice.

So I'm feeling pretty set on going that way (unless someone has some convincing arguments, which im open to).

I was hoping for some confirmation or advice on the parts I should go with.


Obviously, you need the Sniper EFI - https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_efi_quadrajet/parts/550-869
For fuel pump, I just got a brand new oem style tank last year, and after doing some reading, I think an in-tank pump would be better. This one sounded really good. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...uel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-306

The info on that pump says you can use the original hard lines, but I found some comments from people saying that because this is a returnless pump, the hardlines can cause some problems (surging? or something like that). And the solution was adding a pulse dampener. But some other comments saying running proper rubber hose instead of the hard lines would also solve this.
So I was thinking of going with this.

Holley EFI 526-9 Holley EFI Fuel System Kit

Holley EFI fuel kits are the perfect addition to your Sniper EFI or Holley EFI kit. They are engineered using a Holley fuel filter coupled with quality Earl's Vapor Guard plumbing to provide a fuel system tailored to the needs of your EFI System. The secret to Earl's Vapor Guard hose is in its...

www.holley.com

Along with wiring and relay/fuse for the pump, and other misc items that come up, it would seem to me that this would cover everything for installing the Holley Sniper.

Would I be correct in that assumption?
Do you guys have an alternative part suggestions?

I am trying to keep costs as low as possible or at least not buy too many things that will become waste later on if I swap in an LS. I believe I'd be able to reuse the fuel pump and lines with an LS. and If I really wanted, I could get a carburetor style intake for an LS and use the Sniper on it, right?


Thanks guys

 

[ck80]

I currently have a 350 in my 81 Malibu with a Quadrajet.
It runs alright though I need to do some adjustments as the high idle isnt going down on its own right now. Otherwise seems fine. I do think the lifters are a bit noisy but dont know if thats a big concern or not.

Anyways, long term I want to do an LS Swap, but looking into it and just the way I am, I wont be satisfied going with a bare bones swap. I will want to rebuild it, custom harness, dress it up, etc so that is going to be very time consuming and expensive.

The Holley Sniper (QJet version), seems very appealing to me. I like the idea of a much more reliable and less finicky fuel system compared to carb. As well not having to worry about the silly heat riser valve, choke adjustments, etc. Driving in cooler weather reliably would be nice.

So I'm feeling pretty set on going that way (unless someone has some convincing arguments, which im open to).

I was hoping for some confirmation or advice on the parts I should go with.


Obviously, you need the Sniper EFI - https://www.holley.com/products/fue...sniper_efi/sniper_efi_quadrajet/parts/550-869
For fuel pump, I just got a brand new oem style tank last year, and after doing some reading, I think an in-tank pump would be better. This one sounded really good. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...uel_pumps/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-306

The info on that pump says you can use the original hard lines, but I found some comments from people saying that because this is a returnless pump, the hardlines can cause some problems (surging? or something like that). And the solution was adding a pulse dampener. But some other comments saying running proper rubber hose instead of the hard lines would also solve this.
So I was thinking of going with this.

Holley EFI 526-9 Holley EFI Fuel System Kit

Holley EFI fuel kits are the perfect addition to your Sniper EFI or Holley EFI kit. They are engineered using a Holley fuel filter coupled with quality Earl's Vapor Guard plumbing to provide a fuel system tailored to the needs of your EFI System. The secret to Earl's Vapor Guard hose is in its...

www.holley.com

Along with wiring and relay/fuse for the pump, and other misc items that come up, it would seem to me that this would cover everything for installing the Holley Sniper.

Would I be correct in that assumption?
Do you guys have an alternative part suggestions?

I am trying to keep costs as low as possible or at least not buy too many things that will become waste later on if I swap in an LS. I believe I'd be able to reuse the fuel pump and lines with an LS. and If I really wanted, I could get a carburetor style intake for an LS and use the Sniper on it, right?


Thanks guys

read about mclellan83 's nightmares with his Sniper setup and how useless the Holley support personnel have been.

If memory serves, CopperNick had one in his van which was also a turd (the Sniper, not the van).

If it were me, just keep the qjet, and save the money towards your swap. You'll need it.any budget you make for the ls changeover, it'll probably be 2-3x that by the time you're done.

 

[CopperNick]

What I had was the FI-Tech throttle body version of their EFI system, and turd might be too polite a word. Supposedly it came ready to run; Uh-Uh. Oh, it did start, idle, and could learn, but I discovered much later that it had been delivered with the idle set screw completely unloaded. That meant the primary throttle plates were totally over centered and it took a major amount of push on the pedal to get the motor off idle, which translated into issues accelerating away from a dead stop, like at a traffic light. You couldn't feather it; all or nothing and it hated stop and go commuter traffic; . Spent more time over the years trying to get the controller to accept adjustments but the sick truth of it was that I should have been using a laptop and visting the maps. That was something that FI Tech never 'fessed up to.

Also discovered that the throttle position sensor would not remember changes either. it finally failed completely, at which point some research turned up the fact that it was being offered as a replacement part for some curious reason, and that was the point where I went back to a CARB.

Right now i have an Edelbrock AVS 650-/670 sitting on my 37 year old Edelbrock Performer 2101 manifold. Dropped it back in August of last year. It ran and idled properly right out of the box to the point where I have yet to even tickle the idle mixture screws. Not even seriously considering doing that.

About two weeks back, after sitting all winter in the shop while I did other thiings, I finally triggered the pre-oiler and then rolled the engine. Took about three very brief tries, mostly to get the fuel bowls to fill while not prolonging the cranking and getting the starter motor hot, and then it fired and dropped into high idle. The temp hit 100 and a fast tap on the wha-wha pedal made the idle drop down to about 900. Ran it, checked for leaks and fall out and let it warm up for a bit. Few days later I refired it and moved it out of Bay One and around to the front car port.

One main point here is that I always had to keep a charger on the battery when the FI unit was in place because it had its own CPU that had to be wired hot all the time. Let the vehicle sit for any length of time and it would suck the battery down, even my AGM. Monumemtal PITA.

Like the Holley Sniper, FI-TEch now offers something along that line too. It is an invasive install, meaning you have to drain the rad and intake, remove the existing induction system and install the new one. You will have to plumb it and that means a high volume delivery system, and wire it. Plug and play only means that you can plug the various modules into each other because the pl;ugs are specifically shaped to guide you. For the various power input circuits and for the feed from the timer, you have to invade the wiring or find places in the harness where you can add a tap. Finally, the unit is not a "Made ijn America" product.

Do not ask McLellan about his "adventures" with the Holley System unless you are prepared for an earful. His tales are even worse than mine.



CopperNick

 

[78Delta88]

I'll back up CK80. Fix the Q-Jet issue first. Not hitting its kick down is usually the throttle plate shaft wearing the shaft bore into an oval. Just need rebuild with new bronze bushings.

On the Sniper you need to buy everything as a kit. You can't piece meal it out (ala-cart style) and expect it to work. On the FP it is a return type pump and so is the injection unit. Fuel is a closed loop full flow type and at 60 psi 58 psi minimum.

You can use the original fuel line if it is 3/8. 5/16 line too small.

 

[81camel]

One thing I really dislike is having the stupid heat riser valve and pipe to the air cleaner. Can I get rid of that safely on my qjet?

 

[565bbchevy]

When I first installed the 355 SBC in my Regal I bought a Holley Street Avenger 670 with electric choke just to get it running with later plans to install a Sniper set up but it ran so well with it and having the electric choke started up great when cold, so instead of going with the Sniper I decided to upgrade to a Holley Ultra Street Avenger since it is all aluminum and has more tuning features that I am used to including 4 corner idle and it ran great out of the box and I even made a set up to have the idle solenoid for AC.
I sold my first carb for what I paid for it and saved money on both since they were Holley Factory Refurbished carbs. (Both performed and looked brand new)

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

 

[78Delta88]

One thing I really dislike is having the stupid heat riser valve and pipe to the air cleaner. Can I get rid of that safely on my qjet?

Yes absolutely.
One thing to understand is... The original vehicle is sold to the "Average" public. "Car guys" and "Gals" and "hotrodders" are not "average".
The heat riser is to warm incoming air to help with first start on a cold engine. A properly tuned engine doesn't really need it anyhow. I grew up in Chicago are where -12 in the morning was normal. All my cars handled it just fine. It's just that when it's -18 startup and warm up is different from 0 or 34 or 64 degree morning.

Plus... All that silly stuff doesn't work to well with headers.

 

[mclellan83]

I have been extremely patient with my Sniper setup but it really has been nothing but problems, just over the weekend I found out why I had to get towed home yet again for like a 3rd or 4th time. At first I was chalking it up to a motor that had probably been in there for 15 years or so, but my buddy brought up engine masters having a huge problem getting the sniper to properly disperse fuel in a dual plane. The more that I think about it the more likely I think it could be for the cause of this

 

[81camel]

Well then. Now I'm really reconsidering saving that money and spending it elsewhere.

Are headers that big of an improvement over manifolds? Mine are supposedly a bit better than 'stock' ones. I like the idea of headers, but wouldn't want to spend a ton on them as they would be useless once I do an LS down the road.
Attached is what they look like.