Loud clicking from under car.

Status
Not open for further replies.
yourownself said:
i stretched the boltholes on my TC once. made a horrible tapping/knockig sound at idle and deceleration. welded it up and called it a day!

These bolts yall are tightening at the torque converter... Thats not the ones on the flywheel right? Because i done checked those already spinning it around by hand and checking each one. And they seem ok. Do I have to get inside that shield which I assume is the T.C. to find these bolts yall are finding problems with?
 
JuuCeD82ReGaL said:
yourownself said:
i stretched the boltholes on my TC once. made a horrible tapping/knockig sound at idle and deceleration. welded it up and called it a day!

These bolts yall are tightening at the torque converter... Thats not the ones on the flywheel right? Because i done checked those already spinning it around by hand and checking each one. And they seem ok. Do I have to get inside that shield which I assume is the T.C. to find these bolts yall are finding problems with?

The flywheel bolts to the torque converter. You have to take off the cover to get to those bolts. When you are in their make sure you look at the flywheel and make sure it is not cracked, turn the engine over by hand so you can see the whole thing.
 
Well first I tried crawling under the car and checking things out like cracks at the bolts on the TC and they seemed tight and with no cracks. But now at the hub I cant see enough to know if it cracked around there. So I started the car and let it run and it seemed fine with no clicking. Let it idle for 5 minutes and started driving only to heard the dam noise 10 min later. So it seems only when it gets warmed up it does it and it gets only louder from there. Right at the TC and flywheel is where this sound is coming from. It sounds like ****ing rocks are inside of it and clicking away when i accelerate and decelerate and also when its in neutral and park. It seems real hard to take apart anything down there to get to the bottom of all these noises. What should I really do? :?
 
Ok everyone I need your help. Is it possible at all to change out the flexplate without taking the transmission out? I went to a transmission shop and the guy said it is the flexplate by the horrible sound and location i guess.... and that you can remove it with out taking transmission out. Just want to see if anyone actually thinks its possible. Im trying to get it done the quickest and easiest way possible. So take the bolts from tc to flywheel and pry it apart just enough to spin flywheel around to get to each bolt and remove? Seems easy.
 
IDK, but I really don't think it's possible.
 
It can be done with the trans in the car. The way you said to do it will work. I believe they do sell a special wrench to get in their and loosen the bolts.
 
😀 Had the time today to go ahead and seperate the tc to flexplate and found out it only gave me about a half inch of room. So from where I can see the flexplate has a crack all the way around by the bolts and theres a couple chunks also missing in the center of the flexplate :roll: Cool so now atleast i know what the problem is! Now how the heck am I going to get this done without dropping the trans out? i heard it is possible to install longer bolts that hold the transmission together and back it out a few inches to give me enough room to work with taking the plate out and installing it properly. Yall think that would work? Also I did try and get a opened end wrench on a bolt and was thinking I might have enough room to get them it off but it was on there good and Im not trying to strip those b*tches out. How long are those bolts that hold the flexplate up? Im thinking that the depth of the torque converter could help me in backing the bolts out to remove the flexplate without dropping trans. any suggestions.
 
you can slide the transmission back but you'll need to remove the rear transmission support, the cooling lines, the shifter cable and link and the drive shaft...you have to lower the back end of the transmission as well or you'll bind the transmission on the tunnel when you try to slide it back...the bolts for the flex plate are only 3/4" long if I remember correctly

when your reinstalling make sure the torque converter is seated all the way in
 
man that sounds like alot of work. I wish there just was an easier way to go about all this without dropping trans or removing everythiing you just said.
 
Your not going to believe this. I was looking over what i had to disconnect in order to push transmission back. first, how many bolts are holding the trans together? 2? On the bellhousing there is one bolt missing by the starter side and on the driverside it had about 5 threads left from being off! I moved down more and noticed where the 5inch wide bar that goes across the whole trans and exhaust from frame to frame is suppose to be bolted to the trans with two bolts. Theres one bolt but the other is missing and you can see where it slid out of location. Pretty sure this is why the flexplate cracked cause the dam trans is about to fall out!
can i take the four bolts out at the end of the drive shaft and will it then come out in order to remove it?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor