Loud clicking from under car.

Status
Not open for further replies.
yes, when you take the 4 bolts off the u caps will come off and you may need to pry the driveshaft to get the u-joint to dislodge. You'll want to tape the caps in place on the u-joint so the caps don't fall off and loose the roller bearings. You need to have a plug for the transmission handy as well if you don't want to drain the transmission fluid or the fluid will pour out of the tail end of the transmission.
 
Will sticking a rag inside work? What size plug? also thanks for the help you seem to be the only one helping me anymore I dont know where everyone else went :roll: I will also take pics of everything when the time comes, this damaged flexpate deserves a picture. i need to get everything ready first before I go at it.
 
a rag won't work but maybe you can just leave your driveshaft in the transmission after you drop the driveshaft from the rear end. I'd zip tie it place so it won't slide out. One think I forgot was the TV cable that you have to remove from the carb and leave the cable installed in the transmission.....

as far as the others they probably have a real life other than this place. I'm self employed so I have to be here .... 😢
 
flex plate

hey dude
i am a mechanic you can change it with out removing the trans all together but you have to have a really good transmission jack. make sure you or who ever is doing it make sure the bell housing bolts are TIGHT, that is probly why the flexplate cracked
 
Had a friend help me this weekend. took 4 hours and it wasnt that easy of a job. glad it worked out cuz she sounds real nice now. heres the cracked flexplate and we found out it was because i kept locking up my rear end to 12inches when playing with the hydraulics that cause the drive shaft to get shoved forward into the trans which also was moving my whole trans over to the drive side. i cant even get the trans to sit on the trans mount cuz it is shifted over to the driverside :shock: It will all get fixed just thought i would post the flywheel.
flexplatecracked002.jpg


[/img]
flexplatecracked001.jpg

[/img] :roll:
 
That flexplate ain't cracked....I've cracked a flexplate.....yours is busted...:shock:

I don't know how the torque converter didn't slide back and pull the flexplate apart.
 
😀 was told if i shorten my drive shaft it will fix the problem if i want to keep over extending the rear.
 
JuuCeD82ReGaL said:
😀 was told if i shorten my drive shaft it will fix the problem if i want to keep over extending the rear.

I don't understand that.....when the driveshaft is in line with the transmission that's when the distance is shortest..
 
Yeowzers! Unbelievable that it would still start! Sounds to me like your trans was wobbling side to side due to the lack of bolts in the bellhousing, causing the stress on the flexplate. If your drive shaft was too long and getting shoved inward, it would probably either damage your tailshaft or bust the case.
 
pontiacgp said:
JuuCeD82ReGaL said:
😀 was told if i shorten my drive shaft it will fix the problem if i want to keep over extending the rear.

I don't understand that.....when the driveshaft is in line with the transmission that's when the distance is shortest..

well alot of times i drive with *ss locked up high and you can see where the drive shaft was actually rubbing on the driverside tunnel. u can also see rub marks on the slip yolk by trans from it being shoved forward at lockup. i see they actually sell extended slip yolks http://www.coolcars.org/cce/specialtyparts.htm
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor