lower and upper control arms
- Thread starter Lue
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Just a heads up. I recently got the Edelbrock rear set up. Double adjustable uppers, boxed lowers, tubular braces, and anti-hop bars.
They helped alot. Bites better, and no more wheel hop.
But if yours is a street car and your not going to hardcore, stay away from the adjustable arms. They only last about a month of normal driving. Then they come loose and it's a $50 bill to have them re-aligned and tightened.
They helped alot. Bites better, and no more wheel hop.
But if yours is a street car and your not going to hardcore, stay away from the adjustable arms. They only last about a month of normal driving. Then they come loose and it's a $50 bill to have them re-aligned and tightened.
http://www.performancesuspension.com/tr ... -arms.html
Call and ask about their Heavy duty ones...
😀
Call and ask about their Heavy duty ones...
😀
What about just boxing the stock ones?I don't race or anything except on the highway :lol: till i got beat by a cadillac sls with a northstar V8. Can i just box mine ? i can weld mine at work with some metal we have laying around. Or should i just buy some aftermarket arms??
for the front I have tubular uppers with solid brass bushings and the ride is no harsher than stock arms with polyurethane bushings and the tubulars lessen the sprung weight
Lue, what is your goal for the car?
The least expensive for lower is to make your own.
If you box the stock ones properly (wrap the filler piece around the end) and install Poly bushings you will have all you need until you start making killer power and am trying to tuck a big tire.
No "need" for adjustible lowers.
Even if you can't weld, making the filler is easy. Take it to a welding shop and 20 minutes later you have boxed arms.If you go this route, there are a few tips/tricks I can share.
Here are mine in process, they have an extra piece for the aftermarket sway bar.
Notice the extra flap on the ends that will get wrapped and welded.
Done and looking pretty.
For a street car, I just use stockers with poly on one end and rubber ( Camaro) in the rear housing.
Adjustibles up top are a good option. Allows you to set pinion angle. Pinion angle should not be much of an issue at stock height and performance.
Also if you get upper adjustibles, make sure they have grease fittings for the bearing/joints or you will be replacing them often( assumes you drive it alot).
On my Wagon, the lowers are pictured above.
The uppers are stock unboxed with a Camaro bushing in it. I "want" it to be able to flex and not bind when turning.
I went this way on the upper because the anti-hop bars eliminate the housing bushing.If I did not have the anti-hop it would have gotten bushings (2 rubber,2 poly) like I said above.
Hope that helps.
The least expensive for lower is to make your own.
If you box the stock ones properly (wrap the filler piece around the end) and install Poly bushings you will have all you need until you start making killer power and am trying to tuck a big tire.
No "need" for adjustible lowers.
Even if you can't weld, making the filler is easy. Take it to a welding shop and 20 minutes later you have boxed arms.If you go this route, there are a few tips/tricks I can share.
Here are mine in process, they have an extra piece for the aftermarket sway bar.
Notice the extra flap on the ends that will get wrapped and welded.
Done and looking pretty.
For a street car, I just use stockers with poly on one end and rubber ( Camaro) in the rear housing.
Adjustibles up top are a good option. Allows you to set pinion angle. Pinion angle should not be much of an issue at stock height and performance.
Also if you get upper adjustibles, make sure they have grease fittings for the bearing/joints or you will be replacing them often( assumes you drive it alot).
On my Wagon, the lowers are pictured above.
The uppers are stock unboxed with a Camaro bushing in it. I "want" it to be able to flex and not bind when turning.
I went this way on the upper because the anti-hop bars eliminate the housing bushing.If I did not have the anti-hop it would have gotten bushings (2 rubber,2 poly) like I said above.
Hope that helps.
To be honest, i wont be seeing any track time. My Bu is going to be a daily driver, and i tend to be on to road 1hour-2hours at times. My goal is to have my Bu handle as best as posible. Hope this helps.
"best as possible" with what kind of budget?
Are we talking watts link and 17" tires or just tweaking the stock stuff?
Are we talking watts link and 17" tires or just tweaking the stock stuff?
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