I like you haha. Lots of good info there thanks. I didn’t know that an 80e ever came behind a lq4. That would be ideal and make my setup a little more plug and play. I’m definitely looking to boost so I’m going to get the lq4 for sure.lq9 is higher compression but harder to find, only came in escalades, H2's, denali's.
lq4 came in box vans, railroad service trucks, you name it. Came in long crank iron headed versions also.
lq9 all have gen 4 rods which are ~850hp safe
lq4 can have gen 3 which are ~650hp safe, or the gen4 if its 03/04ish or up.
Both can handle 1000hp stock but it depends on how bad you want to drive over your rods at 130mph. If you aren't going to have a 10.0 cage and run a 275 MT ET Pro all the time a gen 3 is fine totally stock. The chance of hooking a 850hp stock bottom lq9 and blowing the rods out the side and not already dumping 10G of chassis work in to handle it is low. By the time the car can handle 850hp your going to have enough money in tripple 450 fuel pumps, cage, bump boxes, boost controllers, and other stuff that you will have put rods and pistons in long ago.
Buy a 03 2500 work truck lq4 and 80e, pull drivetrain out, drop it in G body. Savannah van works too.
Most lq9's had an AWD 60e. 80e really didnt come come in until 2500's and vans and the lq4 was what you got there. Im sure GM bolted 2wd lq9 to 4l80e but its going to be like finding hens teeth.
Buy engine, swap cam and valve springs, and call it fine. Bonus is if you get a 150k mile one the rings are pre gapped for boost 🙂 Basically the rods fail well before the rod bolts do, cranks don't flex until 1300hp+, and putting head studs doesnt do much because the decks flex due to thickness or they push water due to agressive timing and bend rods long before the heads lift due to poor clamp load.
I didn’t realize that the only difference between the two were just compression. If I wouldn’t know that I wouldn’t have been looking for a good LQ9 so hard..