LS engine and trans mount issue.

[RegalRegal]

I have a L92 with 4l80, I am using Brp Hotrods engine mounts and frame brackets I picked up off ebay for a deal Before that i bought a G-force crossmember for the 4l80.
When I installed the engine it fit like a glove and feel I installed the frame mounts correctly but the trans mount needs to go back 1.25" to align with slots. Just my luck

Here is the underside.

Curious if this was an issue because the mismatch of parts or if this was a common issue?
or did I put frame mounts in wrong?
I have pic off the interwebs I was using to install.

I was hoping if I spent the $ on a G-force x member I would not have issues like this but didn't even consider this.

P.S


D.S.

 

[Northernregal]

Yes, I will definitely try that the in the am but not to excited about it. 😒
Those were a pain.
As for the pan this was suggested to me by a friend that helped with the build.
He uses these often.

Deepmotor LS Swap Retrofit Oil Pan LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 Rear Sump, Pick Up, Gasket | eBay

<li> Features: Brand:Deepmotor Part Type:Oil Pans</li> <li>Sump Style: Wet Stroker Clearanced: Yes Maximum Stroke with OE Rod: 4.250 in. Sump Location: Rear Oil Pan Capacity: 5.50 quarts Oil Pan Depth (in): 5.890 in. Oil Pan Material: Aluminum Oil Pan Finish: Natural Baffled: Yes Pickup...

www.ebay.com

For accessories I have looked at many but am unsure. Any suggestions on the cheaper end ? Ict?

Stock truck accessories are the cheapest. Until you upgrade later they are great to get started.

 

[RegalRegal]

Slide the engine back an 1”.
Not sure what pan you’re using, but the pan should be much closer to the crossmember, vertically, than yours. That should line your trans about perfectly.

. Here's how mine set with ict plates and 302-2 pan. I noticed the front most bolt on the block sits 1" or so further forward then mine does. Or the pic is deceiving. But your pan will have like 4" gap between the front member and sump. Whyd they make the sump so narrow but deep( like a truck pan)?
Looks like mine sits 2" from the stock front bar. And 7" from the bolt on my 88 ss steering box to the block. I'm pretty sure nailhead nailed it. You need to move your mounts back to the last set of holes. This seemed like a great recommendation for ways to get at the motor mount bolts. I used swivels. Ratchet, 10" ext, swivel 14mm on the bottom bolt. Top 2 are easy with a box wrench. It's just a minor setback, you just did them so it'll go 2x as fast when you do them today.

Well that wasn't to bad getting the bolts out, engine up and trans bolts aligned but the mounts don't align with much for holes on the crossmember. I am not sure if this will work. I Googled other pic and it looks like what I had originally, so I am not sure.


Maybe diffrent mounts altogether idk ,
maybe that's why they were cheap. lol

 

[Northernregal]

Well that wasn't to bad getting the bolts out, engine up and trans bolts aligned but the mounts don't align with much for holes on the crossmember. I am not sure if this will work. I Googled other pic and it looks like what I had originally, so I am not sure.

View attachment 196783
Maybe diffrent mounts altogether idk ,
maybe that's why they were cheap. lol

It's gonna need to give you a few kicks in the dick before it let's you have a win. My experience anyway.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

Well that wasn't to bad getting the bolts out, engine up and trans bolts aligned but the mounts don't align with much for holes on the crossmember. I am not sure if this will work. I Googled other pic and it looks like what I had originally, so I am not sure.

View attachment 196783
Maybe diffrent mounts altogether idk ,
maybe that's why they were cheap. lol

Im guessing gforce made the crossmember to set tge engine in the stock position. Those mounts probably won't let you.I used these swap plates with sbc stock mounts. I forgot my clamshells on the engine I sold,, so I had to buy those umi replacements. If you have the mount and clamshell still, just buy those plates. The mounts are only 11 bucks at oreilly if your rubber is bad. I think the part # is 2292. I'm pretty sure members have run the ict plates and gforce crossmember without issue. InjectedCutty comes to mind. Or set it exactly where you need it in relation to the crossmember and drill new holes.

LS Motor Swap and LS Engine Swap

LS Motor Swap and LS Engine Swap for Billet Engine Swap Bracket SBC LS Conversion Motor Mount Adjustable Plate LS1 LS3 Adapter Motor

www.ictbillet.com

1978-1988 GM G-Body SBC Engine Mount Clamshells | UMI Performance Inc.

The P/N 90058 heavy duty engine mounts for GM G-body cars takes the place of the heavy factory clamshell mount. It places the Small Block Chevy in exact factory location and uses our popular P/N 90051

www.umiperformance.com

 

[64nailhead]

It's gonna need to give you a few kicks in the dick before it let's you have a win. My experience anyway.

10-4 good buddy haha.

RegalRegal welcome to ‘it doesn’t fit, why did I buy this’

You almost undoubtedly will need one of two things : the plates that RabbitHoleSS described (which are cheap may have some modification required stickers) or drill new holes in the crossmember.

Since it looks like your combo is on a zipper, install the motor mounts on the engine, then put a couple of layers masking tape over your crossmember mount area and set the engine & trans in. Align the trans mount and then mark where your mount bolt holes are.

Then decide to drill or buy the adjustable plates.

Edit : did you check your distance / clearance in front?

 

[Injectedcutty]

Im guessing gforce made the crossmember to set tge engine in the stock position. Those mounts probably won't let you.I used these swap plates with sbc stock mounts. I forgot my clamshells on the engine I sold,, so I had to buy those umi replacements. If you have the mount and clamshell still, just buy those plates. The mounts are only 11 bucks at oreilly if your rubber is bad. I think the part # is 2292. I'm pretty sure members have run the ict plates and gforce crossmember without issue. InjectedCutty comes to mind. Or set it exactly where you need it in relation to the crossmember and drill new holes.

LS Motor Swap and LS Engine Swap

LS Motor Swap and LS Engine Swap for Billet Engine Swap Bracket SBC LS Conversion Motor Mount Adjustable Plate LS1 LS3 Adapter Motor

www.ictbillet.com

1978-1988 GM G-Body SBC Engine Mount Clamshells | UMI Performance Inc.

The P/N 90058 heavy duty engine mounts for GM G-body cars takes the place of the heavy factory clamshell mount. It places the Small Block Chevy in exact factory location and uses our popular P/N 90051

www.umiperformance.com

Yep, I'm running the ICT swap plates with stock clamshells and frame pads. I bought a G force crossmember for the 4L80 and everything bolted up just fine. My engine is basically set in the stock SBC location. Not much clearance between engine and firewall but it works.

 

[81cutlass]

There are a lot of confusing comments & designs tossed around on LS swap mounts.

There are 1" set back, 'normal' position and slider styles.

But, from what I understand, 1" setback is actually stock V6 Buick, SBC or SBO bellhousing position. Some LS swap mounts move the engine forward 1" for the passenger head and coil bracket to clear the AC box along with the PS pulley to clear the steering box. Basically LS swap mounts if they are labeled 1" setback they are OEM position and if they are 'normal' they are 1" set forward.

My GUESS is that the kit you have is a 1" set-forward kit to gain clearance. But, it makes things harder everywhere else.

 

[81cutlass]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but BRP stuff is far from top tier. I think BRP was one of the first to make an LS G body kit but I don't think they are even in the top 10 best

They used the GM 'muscle car' swap pan which was just a v8 Colorado pan that was 5/8 shorter than a stock pickup pan for years. Now they sell a fabricated one and don't mention the GM pan.

They also include a specific cross member with their kit and a set of plates that bolts to the frame and allows the crosmember to slide forward and back like 10". I think to use their mounts your supposed to use their crosmember.

A few people I know that used their kit used about half and sold the other half because it didn't work.

I built my own mounts but if I were to build a swap out of off the shelf parts I'd go Holley if I were buying everything from them, but honestly the only thing that's a good deal in their kit is the oil pan, everything else is a bit in the $$$ side.

I'm not a fan of the LS to SBC adapter plates either or the mounts that go to OEM style SBC mounts like Holley anyway as the passenger side of the mount ends up covering some of the OEM AC compressor mounts.

The best mount I've personally seen from a design and fitment is the Spoon
frame mount and F body block mount.

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AC notch or relocation?

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gbodyforum.com

 

[RegalRegal]

Thanks for the info, that makes total sense now. I don't have any other mounts, my frame mounts were sbo.

Edit : did you check your distance / clearance in front?

No I haven't but I at least I understand what the issue is. Just need to decide what direction I'm going to go.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but BRP stuff is far from top tier.

Not sure if I'm ready to give up on them quite yet, not sure what would fail on them. Thanks for all the helpful information. I would prefer not spending alot of $$$.