Ls motor question

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mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
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columbus, ohio
My goal for my malibu is to build an LS motor to be over 500 whp. I want to replace my 355 this spring. Before I start doing all of my LS engine reading I was wondering which LS motor is a solid starting point. I’m sure a lot of them cost different amounts to build as well as some are better than others.

I’m pretty sure I’ll need the motor, mounts, and a harness to just get it running. I have a turbo350 I would like to swap but I may wait until after the motor is in. Isn’t there an adaptor plate?

I have an 8.5 in rear with 373 Eaton Posi and my frame has about every suspension bar upgrade there ever was plus some ones I’ve added for some extra stiffness.
 
Depends on your budget. If it allows then an LS3 is a great donor. The budget method is to use a 6.0 truck engine and buy a set of Dart or AFR heads, cam and your goal is easily attained.
 
Depends on your budget. If it allows then an LS3 is a great donor. The budget method is to use a 6.0 truck engine and buy a set of Dart or AFR heads, cam and your goal is easily attained.
6.0 motor like an LQ9 or are most people just LS swapping now? Are all LS blocks aluminum. I’m definitely going to freshen up whatever I do buy used even if I’m running condition. I would like to have about 6-8k I’n the motor. That will leave me with enough room to do the rest of the drivetrain.
 
The Lq9 is what i am running and i have a fresh build with a decent cam and i aint hittin but 360rwhp. lq9 is a 6.0 iron block from a truck. I got about 4-5 k in it freshly built. In order for me to add 140 more hp would take some ported ls7 heads and a bigger cam along with another 500 bux for dyno tuning once again. LS and budget really shouldnt be in the same sentence from my experience unless of course you run a turbo.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIm4yik8WE2AIVCAVpCh08KADxEAQYAiABEgKK8fD_BwE

Not necessarily suggesting you buy this new engine. Just wanted to show you this combo and what it is rated at. It is said to be conservatively rated on power.

Yes, all true LS engines are aluminum blocks. Their truck brethren have iron blocks and are referred to as Vortec V-8's. The truck engines are more economical since they are more plentiful.

A popular combination is getting a 6.0 block and stroking it to 408 cubic inches. No replacement for displacement. It will meet your power goals easily without a huge cam and will make a lot of torque.

The LQ4/LQ9's (Gen III) are still out there but they haven't been in production since about '06. The Gen IV 6.0's are more plentiful (L96) as every 3/4 ton gasoline powered truck out there has one in it.

Gen IV runs drive by wire throttle body. Some Gen III are drive by wire and some are drive by cable.

Hope this helps.
 
Yes all LS code motors are aluminum block and heads ( im sure there are some exceptions to this ), BUT most people use the term LS as an reference to all gen 3 and up engines. So typically your LS1,2,3,4,6,7,9 are aluminum and the LM and LQ code engines are iron block
 
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Yes all LS code motors are aluminum block and heads ( im sure there are some exceptions to this ), BUT most people use the term LS as an reference to all gen 3 and up engines. So typically your LS1,2,3,4,6,7,9 are aluminum and the LM and LQ code engines are iron block

Dont forget the LSA. And the L33 its a 5.3 but all aluminium
 
The Lq9 is what i am running and i have a fresh build with a decent cam and i aint hittin but 360rwhp. lq9 is a 6.0 iron block from a truck. I got about 4-5 k in it freshly built. In order for me to add 140 more hp would take some ported ls7 heads and a bigger cam along with another 500 bux for dyno tuning once again. LS and budget really shouldnt be in the same sentence from my experience unless of course you run a turbo.

This ^^^ is what you should expect with a 6.0 unless you are wiling to spend big money on parts, rev it to the moon and build all your power up top. If your into poor street manners and that type of experience go for it. Personally I would consider forced induction. Also remember that the LQ9 is the old version of the 6 liter with cathedral port heads. Most of these are used up high mileage cores now. We bought the newer LY6 and put a take off LSA blower on it. This combo should net over 600 a the rear wheels and still idle smoothly.

This place is near me and buys up many of the take offs in the Midwest region. Bought ours for $800....prices are going up.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=112306851571
 
I definitely want something that I’m not going to have to work on all of the time and can be good at idle. So my best bet would be to look into a LS2 or LS3 and adding a turbo. I will most likely find a donor block or start from scratch with a new block and build it. With tune, turbo, motor build ect, can this be done for less than 8k? I would like to stay under 6k if possible, but not a necessity. I’m sure the turbo is more expensive to build but easier to get the results I’m after. Do turbos effect daily driving at all when you’re talking about that hp range?
 
You could go 6.0 and a set of 243 heads and save money over the cost of a LS2
 
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