Ls motor question

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mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
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On your budget just about anything is possible in the 700-900whp range. The best bet is a turbo'd 6.0/4L80E combo. Swap a cam and valve springs, open the ring gaps and maybe, repeat maybe, drop the coin on a new TC. The TC depends solely on the application. Drag race ALOT? Yes, get a converter. 90+% street driven - use the stocker.

MS or stock PCM? Good question that is answered in your answers. Do you want to tune it yourself? Are going to be trying to get all you can from the tune and do you have the ability to tune? Or are you going to take it to someone and tell them 'make it run good'?

If you want to tune it yourself, then go MS. If you want to take it to someone, then use the GM system (HP Tuners takes alot of knowledge and experience to move quickly through it). Also, the MS tuning software is free - HP Tuners is not ($750 IIRC). The cost of the software is one of the reasons why tuners charge. Also, there are no where near as many experienced MS tuners as there are GM (HP Tuners) around.

With your budget you can do whatever floats your boat.
Perfect that’s what I was looking for. I’m looking to find a junkyard LQ9/4L80e. Have it machined, bored, bigger cam, clean the heads up, build them , new bottom end, and slap a turbo on it. We have a pretty famous LS tuner I’ll most likely have him do the tuning. I will Be gathering parts over the next year and most likely be installing winter 2018 . I’ll most likely keep the stock converter and see how it runs I can always throw one in and have a tune. It will be street driven about 100-200 miles a year. I built my 355 4 years ago (200 miles).
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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On your budget just about anything is possible in the 700-900whp range. The best bet is a turbo'd 6.0/4L80E combo. Swap a cam and valve springs, open the ring gaps and maybe, repeat maybe, drop the coin on a new TC. The TC depends solely on the application. Drag race ALOT? Yes, get a converter. 90+% street driven - use the stocker.

MS or stock PCM? Good question that is answered in your answers. Do you want to tune it yourself? Are going to be trying to get all you can from the tune and do you have the ability to tune? Or are you going to take it to someone and tell them 'make it run good'?

If you want to tune it yourself, then go MS. If you want to take it to someone, then use the GM system (HP Tuners takes alot of knowledge and experience to move quickly through it). Also, the MS tuning software is free - HP Tuners is not ($750 IIRC). The cost of the software is one of the reasons why tuners charge. Also, there are no where near as many experienced MS tuners as there are GM (HP Tuners) around.

With your budget you can do whatever floats your boat.
....and what controls the transmission? Does MS do that?
 

Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
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I have Efilive and can do the tune for you for the trans swap, it’s easy. I don’t think I would attempt to tune the turbo for you though, that’s a little above me.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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....and what controls the transmission? Does MS do that?

There are several ways to have an MS unit run the trans - a Microsquirt built for running the trans that communicates with the engine ECM via CAN line, or an expansion board tied into the main board. The cheapest way out (which isn't real cheap) is two Microsquirts tied together via can line. But an MS2, or MS3X can be used with a Microsquirt for the transmission. The engine ECM choice comes down to how much do you want to get out of your build, i.e., boost control, 2 step, nitrous, meth injection, etc. If the stock PCM is used, then each of these require an auxiliary system.

An MS2, and Microsquirt running the motor loses the IAC functionality, if that is a concern, and runs the CNP as wasted spark (4 channels) and forces batch fire rather sequential fire on the injectors.
 
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Wraith

Royal Smart Person
Jan 13, 2013
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Big fan of Megasquirt/Microsquirt here but find someone that is willing/able to tune it before you consider it unless you are willing to learn it yourself. Tuning megasquirt turbo cars isn't hard as long as you go slow and know where you want to go. Last car I did was a Volvo big turbo 16V, fun stuff, and the only problem we had was when the manual boost controller stuck and the fabricated intake popped at 23psi. Duct taped it, drove it home, and welded it back up. Fast and Furious.
 

Wraith

Royal Smart Person
Jan 13, 2013
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I always see so much short sightedness in these questions. Why on earth would you put a TH350 behind a 600hp LS? Why put a MS injection on when the factory computer has a trans control built in?

This isn't so far fetched with a turbo car as you drop your gear ratios down to load the turbo and build boost faster especially when using tall drag tires. I am planning round 2 for mine to go single turbo/TH400/9" with 3.XX gear after the first year.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Big fan of Megasquirt/Microsquirt here but find someone that is willing/able to tune it before you consider it unless you are willing to learn it yourself. Tuning megasquirt turbo cars isn't hard as long as you go slow and know where you want to go.

This was the point I was trying to make earlier. If you want to tune it yourself, then MS is the way to go. If you're concerned about learning how to tune it yourself, don't, it's much easier than using any of the factory stuff. This assumes a couple of things though - you must understand how to curve a distributor in terms of initial, all in, and mechanical advance timing. Also, you need to understand what is needed when tuning with boost, i.e. how to creep up on a tune with both timing and fuel considerations. To me, this is the most fun part of using an MS (and that I never have to rely on anyon else.)

But, if you have no intention of tuning it yourself, then consider using the GM ECM and taking it to a dyno shop.
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
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There are some aspects of tuning a factory ecm that make a lot of sense. The control over timing for temperature and atmospheric conditions, multiple trans shift profiles available at the push of a button, amazing engine protection features for knock, temperature, oil pressure, and traction control on some years built into the ecm.

But using a wideband O2, tuning a wild cam, boost, and controls over NOS or a water meth system are why I went with a Holley system for my Regal. Factory just doesn’t do it as well.
 
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mobileaudio25

G-Body Guru
Jan 12, 2012
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columbus, ohio
This was the point I was trying to make earlier. If you want to tune it yourself, then MS is the way to go. If you're concerned about learning how to tune it yourself, don't, it's much easier than using any of the factory stuff. This assumes a couple of things though - you must understand how to curve a distributor in terms of initial, all in, and mechanical advance timing. Also, you need to understand what is needed when tuning with boost, i.e. how to creep up on a tune with both timing and fuel considerations. To me, this is the most fun part of using an MS (and that I never have to rely on anyon else.)

But, if you have no intention of tuning it yourself, then consider using the GM ECM and taking it to a dyno shop.
Honestly tuning is something that I would like to get into at some point since I now have an interest is fuel injected Motors, but as of now I think I’m going to leave it to our local tuner. I’m pretty sure he’s known US wide for his mustang and LS tuning. He tunes a lot of cars making over 1000whp . I also want the most out of my setup so I’m going to leave the tune to him.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Nothing against your local guy, but if you can tune a carb motor with a dizzy, then you can tune an EFI motor with electronic spark control - just quicker.

The easiest area to make costly mistakes is in the areas of the tune that are not common - going from WOT at redline and directly below that. This area comes into play when you run wide open, dump the throttle for a .5-1 seconds and then go back to WOT. But almost all of it is extremely forgiving until boost comes into play. Other than that, never put more timing anywhere above the 'all in' mark of your motor until the max HP/TQ is achieved.

Hopefully the local tuner will show you the fuel, timing and target AFR tables when he is done. Once you see them and can covert vacuum to KPA it will be relatively obvious what's happenning.

Also, I don't want to sound like an expert, but I I jumped into this about 5 year ago and was very intimidated. But with the help/guidance of one guy I was able to get a good running, safe tune and when I took my 1st EFI motor to the dyno he was extremely forthcoming with info - not everyone is like him - some will try to keep it top secret to maintain your level of intimidation. If you ever decide to have a go at it, then let me know and I'll help with the tables to get it into a safe, driveable tune.
 
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