LS1 transmission options

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thedoctorisin said:
Nice! Thanks for the info, exactly what I thought I was looking for. Now that I know what I'm looking for it shouldn't be too hard to track down all the bits and pieces. Now all I'm waiting on is sufficient funds to get my motor swap 2.0 underway. And to decide on a tame 5.3 for better economy or try and get serious with the LQ9 6.0. Ahh lifes tough decisions.
no problem... the best bang for the buck is going to be a 5.3! depending on how much you pick up a 6.0 for...

the hp numbers aren't too much of a difference either for the price difference... stock motors! (depending on which one you get, l33/lq4/9 etc)

5.3 is approx. 285-300 hp and torque is 335 lbf·ft to 350 lbf·ft

6.0 is approx. 300-345 hp and 360 lbf·ft to 380 lbf·ft

the displacement difference is only 44.9 c.u. and at times that doesn't warrant the price difference and availability.

with the 5.3 and 6.0 great hp and torque gains can be had with simple and sometimes very affordable upgrades, the most important would be the cam and springs/rods. the next would be the intake, and last the heads... the biggest improvement seems to be in the cam! you can find used cams for great deals and roller cams do not wear like the old hyd cams, so the risk is low buying one used. with the bigger 6.0 better numbers are gained with the mods, but the 5.3 is a great base motor...

take one of those, put some 243 or 799 casting heads on it, throw in a nice cam and double springs and an ls6 intake (to smooth out the trq issues)... sell all your stock front acc and intake and that makes it an amazing value. also putting on the car style acc clears up any issues with fitment (hood etc.) and is a more cosmetically appealing!
 
LSCustoms said:
the displacement difference is only 44.9 c.u. and at times that doesn't warrant the price difference and availability.

I get 38.95 cu. Are you including chamber volume? Don't mean to nit-pick, just sticking up for my mini-mill :wink:

The only risk in buying a used cam is when the DOPE that sends it to you doesn't grease it up and it gets rusty! You'd be surprised how quickly a cam can rust. Motorcycle chain lube in a spray can works well for bagging/shipping a used cam
 
motorholmes said:
LSCustoms said:
the displacement difference is only 44.9 c.u. and at times that doesn't warrant the price difference and availability.

I get 38.95 cu. Are you including chamber volume? Don't mean to nit-pick, just sticking up for my mini-mill :wink:

The only risk in buying a used cam is when the DOPE that sends it to you doesn't grease it up and it gets rusty! You'd be surprised how quickly a cam can rust. Motorcycle chain lube in a spray can works well for bagging/shipping a used cam
5.3 = 325.1
6.0 = 370

maybe I did the math wrong
 
The 5.3 will probably be the one ill go with. Unless I find the deal of the year on a 6.0. I'm not too dead set at this point I just want to start planning this project out and rounding up the random parts I need to get it bolted up in my ride.

Motor mounts, the fly wheel adapter, that seems like all I need to get it in there correctly. Then I have to figure out what I want to do for the intake. Either the the carb intake or rig up the fly by wire setup.

Thanks again guys, this swap might call for a little build page once it starts going on.
 
fly by wire.........get rid of it their nothing but issues, i work on them all day long
get a t-body for cable

i am going to run a truck intake on my 5.3 that i punhed to a 396, i can live with 14 less horse but i gain almost 40 in torque
my heads i am fully porting and road friendly 580 cam, good tune and eliminate the emissions i dont need to the computer and i will be over 560hp in a daily driver that gets probably 20-25 mpg
 
I didnt really read any of the other replies but maybe its already been said but heres the info i used to give my customer when i was managing the ole transmission shop.... Any LS based engine has the same bolt pattern as the other lsx engines ls1,ls6,ls2 whatever is all the same. In order to run a 700r4 transmission to a lsx engine you will need a crank hub adapter, different flexplate and thats it. What i would also tell them is to consider running a dual bolt pattern flexplate. Yes it is about $20 more but you can run numerous GM torque converters with it and keep your old starter. Upon all this being said i would send my customer or order the flexplate and crank hub adapter from a company called advance adapters. Speak to a guy named jim and tellem Doc sent you and he will give you a little slack. Now heres something else to keep in mind. Running a lsx engine with a 700r4 will require a special bracket to mate your tv cable too to work on your lsx engine. Making one is the best option or if you run a reverse manual valve body like i got in one of my cars you do NOT need to run a tv cable. Forward pattern you do.
 
docrocket1967 said:
I didnt really read any of the other replies but maybe its already been said but heres the info i used to give my customer when i was managing the ole transmission shop.... Any LS based engine has the same bolt pattern as the other lsx engines ls1,ls6,ls2 whatever is all the same. In order to run a 700r4 transmission to a lsx engine you will need a crank hub adapter, different flexplate and thats it. What i would also tell them is to consider running a dual bolt pattern flexplate. Yes it is about $20 more but you can run numerous GM torque converters with it and keep your old starter. Upon all this being said i would send my customer or order the flexplate and crank hub adapter from a company called advance adapters. Speak to a guy named jim and tellem Doc sent you and he will give you a little slack. Now heres something else to keep in mind. Running a lsx engine with a 700r4 will require a special bracket to mate your tv cable too to work on your lsx engine. Making one is the best option or if you run a reverse manual valve body like i got in one of my cars you do NOT need to run a tv cable. Forward pattern you do.
yes answers and part numbers given...

bowtie overdrives for the tv cable, ill take a picture of the one I have sometime tomorrow and post it
 
Yes you will the bracket still. But the constant pressure valvebody still needs to havethe cable adjusted properly no matter what. The trans wont burn up as fast when misadjusted but will still tear that 3-4 clutch pack right apart no matter what valvebody you have unless it is reverse manual valvebody then there is no cable required.
 
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